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Pharomommy

What is the max the 3500 can haul?

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We are looking for a camper and need to know what is the max we should be looking at for weight.

 

I see some of you have a 35ft 7,700lb camper and seem to be hauling it fine. Did you do anything to the van to make it be alright to haul that?

 

We have a 3500 Passenger Van SL. There are 2 adults and 3 small kids that will be riding in it too. Some light luggage.

 

Throw some numbers at me

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We have a 30', around 8,000 pound camper we pull a few times a year. Just a brake controller and weight-distribution hitch is all we use. The NV chassis handles the weight as well as our Super Duty Ford pickups in my opinion.

 

Just be safe, don't enter any drag races, and you should have a good setup for the job.

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The old Nissan books stated 16,000 pounds combined for the van plus what you are hauling.  If you want to push the limits you'll need to weigh the van loaded up for how you would take it camping and go from there.  

 

If you just want to go shopping I would stick with a 8000 lb "gross" weight camper (dry weight of camper plus it's cargo capacity) just to check out what your options are.  Never go off dry weights that are advertised.  They dont include anything loaded and often dont include things like batteries or propane tanks.  

 

Our camper is 7700# loaded heavy and the NVP tows it just fine even through the Appalachian or Blue Ridge Mountains.  You wont win any speed contests or pass people going up a steep incline but it tows well.  

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The old Nissan books stated 16,000 pounds combined for the van plus what you are hauling. 

 

That 16,000 pound limit is a suspiciously round number, especially since all the other weights and weight limits are given in very specific numbers that don't end with zeroes.  I'm guessing you could get away with a bit more than that weight, but I don't know how far you'd want to push your luck.

 

So, why 16,000 pounds?  I suspect that's a magic number in the industry for classifying vehicles.  Here in Idaho, I have to pay an annual registration fee that's based on the age of the vehicle for anything with a max combined gross weight up to 8,000 pounds.  Above that, and the fee is based on weight instead of age.  The next cutoff is 16,000 pounds.  If the manual stated a max combined gross weight one pound above that, I'd have to pay more for my registration.  I don't know what's special about 16,000, but I bet it's not a coincidence that it shows up both in the owner's manual and at the DMV.

Edited by Mark Rogers

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I'm pretty sure they just state 8900 max now in the manual, I know in the past it was 16,000 combined.

 

You really just need to pay attention to your axle weights/limits.  Stay under for the rear axle and check to make sure you didnt take too much weight off the front axle.  You could have a lighter tongue weight and load up a crazy amount of heavy gear in the van and go over the axle rating.  You could have a very poorly adjusted WD hitch and front axle will be too light.

 

It's all measurements and making sure you stay in guidelines.  You also have to be comfortable towing.  If somebody has never pulled anything and suddenly decides a 35 foot bunkhouse at 9000# is the right first trailer it could be a rude awakening on the road and when you have to park or maneuver in a tight spot the first time.  I see a ton of people that just hook and up and go.  They never adjust their hitch, their brake controller, check their tire pressure (tow vehicle and trailer), etc.  You're asking for trouble doing those things. 

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I have a 2016 and it still says 16,000 max combined in the manual.  I wonder if maybe they changed that in 2017 along with the bigger engines.

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Thanks everyone!!

 

We looked at the sticker in the van and then the owners manual and they were giving us conflicting numbers. So wanted to be safe and not do something to harm the Bug Blue Beast.

 

@andy_george

What brake controller and weight-distribution hitch did you get? Did you install it yourself? I've been reading reviews on different hitches and they are saying some are better then others. 

 

Thanks!

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My setup is in my sig line and I would recommend both.

 

Pros for the Blue Ox - it is clean (grease is captured inside the swivels), it works off geometry and physics vs. straight friction so it is quiet, the rotating latches are super easy to hookup, the spring steel bars make a smooth ride, very little to adjust (only need to worry about tension).

 

Cons - it is Heavy.  The whole head is one piece of steel and weighs close to 70 pounds.  The powder coating isnt the best and flakes off leaving possible areas of rust.  

 

Tekonsha P3 - been around a long time.  They have harnesses that plug right into the Nissan factory harness so no splicing needed.  They are not too picky about location or orientation.  

 

Honestly - if you stick with a good brand - Reese, Blue Ox, Equalizer, Husky even Curt and many others for the hitch and for the controller you'll be just fine.  What ever you buy make sure to read the manual thoroughly and dont trust the dealer to set things up right.  They normally want you in and out quickly and wont want to make the fine adjustments.  

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2013 Hi top v8 2500 here.

 

I tow 5,500 lb travel trailer with two dirt bikes in the van plus gear, water extra gas etc.... so probably 7500 to 8000 total trailer and cargo. Like mentioned above just drive smart and have some mercy on the rig and it will be fine, the Nissan nv is geared perfectly for uphill in 3rd gear, 3,500 rpm at 55 mph. I also have towed the same trailer with a gmc 1500 and duramax 2500, the Nissan is by far the most comfortable and stable suspension wise.

 

I like prodigy brake controller and Reese dual cam weight distribution hitch.    

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8700 lbs. We have 5 kids and a keystone bullet 35bhs to tow.get a trailer brake and weight distribution hitch. I have a husky.

Edited by TinyStudio

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