Water: storage, plumbing, hot water, showers

[radin2son]

What works, doesn't?

 

We increased water storage to 20 gallons from 10 gallons. The uninsulated tank sits centered on the subfloor under the sofa/bed, mostly in front of the rear axle. It can be filled from an outside connection with a hose from whatever threaded spigot you have access to. It also can be filled gallon by gallon via a direct connection to the tank, tedious. (I forgot to put the cap back on, and some spilled out going around curves or over bumps.) Why so much water? We're in the dry southwest. Also, national parks have no direct hookups and depending on the season the water is turned off.

 

The tank is plumbed to a counter sink with pullout faucet, as well as an external shower at the back of the van. Hot water is available though a "flat plate" (engine heat exchange). Both work well enough to recommend, but the engine has to idle to get hot water. Temp will vary...

 

There is a small gray water tank that we let drain into a large dish pan. Some parks have kitchen water disposal so it is easy enough to carry the dish pan there or wherever you can dump it.

 

We do not drink the tank water even though the water is from potable sources. We are not alone in this practice, and we carry 10 gallons of bottled water to drink.

 

We don't have to winterize in Tucson.

[radin2son]

One of the advantages of not having plumbing for water is that there is nothing to fail.

 

After 3+ years of use, we are starting to have minor problems.

 

1. On our trip to Big Bend, TX, it got much colder than forecast and the gray water tank drain shut off froze. On our most recent trip, it leaked. Not that big a deal since the tank is way to small to depend on. We always use a pan, but some stays in the tank to leak later.

 

2. The "city" water intake started leaking more when under pressure. This past trip, I tried tightening it only to make it worse. It hardly leaks when I use "city" water to fill our 20 gallon tank, then turn off the water.

 

I have to take another look to see what is leaking. Everything is in an impossible to see and reach area, so my goal may be to just get it to leak less. We rarely use available "city" water for more than filling the tank when needed.

 

Having plumbing for water is still the way to go for us, but I would try to keep it all easily accessible if doing a home build.

 

2/24 Where is a NV plumber when you need one? Looked, or rather tried to look at the connections. Other than seeing "pex?" blue water lines coming off the intake, I couldn't get near them to see if if any were loose or cracked.

 

So, if I need to use city water, I can shut it off when not in use...

Edited February 25, 2016 by radin2son

[Wallyc]

I drive an nv and I am a plumber does that count?!??

[radin2son]

Sure, but do you bill from the moment you get in your NV and drive to Tucson?

Just below this post is an ad for "plumbers in your area." Google is on the job...

Edited February 26, 2016 by radin2son

[Wallyc]

Lmfao, if you have any questions about the plumbing part let me know ill help in anyway I can

[radin2son]

Thanks.

 

If I could take a picture, I would. The water lines come into the interior above the floor and can be accessed via one lower cabinet. (No drawers, just a door and floor.) It is the space between the interior wall and intake that is the problem. If they had only had placed the connector inside the van. They could have used the current space instead for a pressure regulator. Water pressure seems to vary with the type of spigot, the highest being the ones that look like hand pumps. Some are on full or not at all.

 

If/when the system fails, moving the connector inside may be the solution. If I end up doing this, I will ask what I need to make the connections...

 

If it was only that simple, or maybe less complicated. With the van empty, I was able to get a better look. The intake to the water tank, under the couch/bed, dives under the floor to get to the outside fill. Other lines to the sink and "flat plate" heat exchange come in elsewhere(?). This is probably best resolved by Sportsmobile in CA.

Edited February 26, 2016 by radin2son

[Wallyc]

Yeah. Probably , but in my experience pex pipe is pretty sturdy its usually not the pipe or the connections that have a problem it's usually a threaded connection or something to that effect problems are very rare on the crimp connection.it's more than likely a threaded connection into the tank or into something else or the pipe was laid next to something sharp

[Wallyc]

And if I had to take a guess I would probably say it's something simple its just a shame you have to tear the truck Apart to get to. Bummer

[radin2son]

Thanks for the info on pex. It probably is the best application for camper vans.

 

The only visible thread is right at the city water connection and face plate. It is one unit that threads into the multiple hose connection. The connector has one of those plastic "nuts," typically found under sink faucets. This is likely the culprit, if I can get my fingers in there...

 

We have a good plumber for our home, but he would re-plumb it in copper.

[Wallyc]

Yeah you can't beat copper in the house but the adva yeah you can't be copper in the house but the play vantage of the plastic pipe is it can move around without hurting but if it has one of those plastic nuts that are captured it swivels all over the place yeah that's usually a spot of problems advantage of the plastic pipe is it can move around without hurting but if it has one of those plastic nuts that are captured it swivels all over the place yeah that's usually a spot of problems

[Wallyc]

If your plumber has any dealings with pex and I don't know too many plumbers that don't he could probably make you up something out of brass and crimp fittings for pex that would solve your problem and won't give you any problems anymore. But if it's under warranty then that's different

[radin2son]

With him, it is copper or copper...

 

The conversion is under warranty for 5 years, but I have to drive it to Fresno, CA. Since they install so many systems just like this, it shoulf be a simple fix if only because they know how far they can stress the lines to get to that nut.

 

Next time I am hooked up to water, I will play with it some more.

 

Thanks for your help.

Edited February 28, 2016 by radin2son

[radin2son]

Dry Camping is the norm on the southwest (at least where we end up...) 

 

We just finished a 6 day trip where there were no hookups. We started out with 30 gallons of water, 20 gallons in our tank and 10 one gallon (rectangular store bought bottles that store better) for drinking. I added 3 gallons of potable water to our tank from a spigot in Death Valley. We have maybe 2 gallons left in the tank and 4 gallons of drinking water.

 

Had we stayed out longer, we could have filled the tank from a threaded spigot at Tuttle Creek campground, Lone Pine, CA. Threaded spigots are a rarity; we also could have added water gallon by gallon. The other option is to buy the cheapest drinking water in the next town.

 

In 6 days, we used our external shower twice. A solar shower would probably use about the same amount of water. 

 

We stayed in campgrounds because they are convenient and have bathrooms. Pit toilets ironically are often cleaner and not as worn out. If you camp in areas where there are no campgrounds, the BLM rule is "Catholes." Bury human waste 4-6" deep, 200' away from water, trails and camp. Pack out toilet paper. Pee bottles work for men and women; visualize 1 gallon Rubbermaid pitcher, not the trucker's 1 gallon milk jug.

 

Our next trip in April will be to the Four Corners area. There will be few if any hookups. 

[radin2son]

Rarely do home builds include water systems, perhaps because they can become complicated or are not needed.

 

Möbius Concepts and Steph Davis came up with a great system. Two 5 gallon water containers at floor level. The one with potable water was connected via a pump and hose to the sink and the sink drained into the second, gray water. She carries 2 more potable water containers. All can easily be removed and replaced. Having had to carry water from a distant spigot, I would not be happy carrying 40+ lbs of water.

 

I haven't seen this done on any NVs, but many Sprinter conversions only use 1/2 the side area for entry. In the above build, the sink is in a cabinet in the rear area next to the slider. There is a counter extension that folds up. Great use of space.

 

In SMBs, only a 1/3 of the step is usable. The floor is extended for a little more space and storage underneath. To add strength (?), SMB covered the NV step with a wooden step. Only problem is that it adds about an inch to the step up and the rubberized coating wore through. I put multiple coats of water base, paint-on bed liner. No wear so far. Expensive stuff and I wish I could find more uses.