Decades

Uploading files for those that want them. Sorry I didn't realize I could upload them sooner. I only have notifications on if folks message me directly. front outer rev.STL front inner rev.STL rear outer rev.STL rear inner rev.STL

I have had some success 3d printing the plastic mounts that hold the sensors in the bumper from the outside. The sensor itself still needs to be intact, as well as the rubbery part between the flat sensor and the plastic part, but the metal springy arms that put pressure on the inside of the bumper can't be bent since the ones I printed were abs and brittle and would crack off at the four mounting tabs while trying to get the metal springy arms to hold it in place. PM me if you want the files (free), it costs about $7 each to have them printed from a printing service, or diy if you have a printer. They are different front and back, but mirrored (front inner= FI, works in both locations, rear outer= RO, front outer= FO, rear inner= RI) edited to add renders of the parts

I use a flat OBD extension to a Bluetooth bridge, and use the Torque Pro ($5) app on a Samsung Galaxy Player to automatically call out (and clear) CEL fault codes. It also logs them, in case it is not one that is expected. I get the post-catalytic trim too lean banks 1 and 2 from the supercharger that I haven't had deleted from the ECU yet. It clears them before I notice the light almost all of the time, and the app's voice gives the brief description as it comes in and is cleared. The bluetooth bridge is powered from the OBD port and an internal battery, and I keep the Samsung in the console plugged in and typically leave it on as long as I know the truck will be used again within a day or two.

Mine is a Quigley 4x4.

I use a Wilson "Little Will" magnet mount, with the cable routed down the front edge of the window that opens behind the driver on Passenger models, bringing the cable through the bottom so the window can still be shut and shed water. Not noticeable, but I stow the antenna assembly in the compartment to the passenger's side of the rear door opening. The magnet base and a few rags keep it from making noise. I never have a passenger directly behind the driver's seat since a car seat is in the space next to it, but once the cable is inside I route it behind the driver's seat and up along side.

I got mine through the Nissan parts department at the dealership, although the van came with some of them, too. You will need four of the smaller ones for each of the rear (last row) seats you remove, and a plug/cap for each (the plug/cap is larger for the smaller ones and are not interchangeable with the plug/cap for the longer covers- the part numbers I have for them are: 74812-1PB0A for "X61F SM SEAT RAIL CVR" and 74812-1PB1A for "X61F SM SEAT RAIL CAP" I don't have the part numbers for the longer ones.

GenX website is being updated, but they are still open and can be contacted at: info@genxtrims.com These go on over the original grille. I removed the upper grille to install the GenX billet cover, the 4th piece was installed with the bumper in place.

Rick, Hate to pile on your troubles but all that fuel is going somewhere and if your Air/Fuel ratio is rich you can be fouling spark plugs and spoiling the catalytic converter so once the fuel problem is fixed you may have problems from those down the line. You may be able to get your A/F ratio measured with a tailpipe sniffer at a dyno if you have one local to you. I'm no expert, but I think a rich condition can be that an engine temperature sensor may be off (I think a cold engine runs rich to light off the cat, if that cycle is not ending your mpg will suffer). I use the Torque Pro App with a bluetooth OBD-II reader and it can log data like the status of the emissions, don't know if the tool you are using will tell you the status. If you are not getting to complete cycles it may be another (free) indicator that your ECU is still in warmup mode. There is a method to reset the 5.6L ECU that I found on a Titan forum that doesn't require any tools- http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3481 (I used the "easy method") and it worked for me (to clear codes, I wasn't trying to reset the mapping)

Mine is a 2013 SL Passenger, and the fog light lens says "Valeo" at the top, molded into the glass lens- I ordered the following one from Amazon and it is identical (same part number on the back- 89210094): http://www.amazon.com/Valeo-W0133-1657785-VAL-Fog-Light/dp/B00FS9DOY2/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1433975305&sr=1-3&keywords=valeo+fog+light I removed the lower front of the inner fender plastic mudguard to get at it (you will probably need philips to remove fender mudguard) and a T15 torx bit to remove the fog lamp. The bulb in it is an H11- the one from amazon comes with one in it already, but it is removable from the housing with no tools (I was able to pull the bulb without removing the mud guard by reaching up under the bumper- twist <90 degrees counter-clockwise.) If anything is broken beyond what the picture shows from Amazon, there is a bracket that is available from Nissan that mounts to the bumper, it is a different part number for each side. Editing to add photo:

Found the article- www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/pickup/1501_2016_nissan_titan_xd_first_look/ A little bit of conflicting information on this article, says the rear axle is from a Dodge Power Wagon and is a 10.5".