yjmoose89

I may take it back off and paint it with raptor liner. Otherwise I’m happy. It does create quite a bit of wind noise, I guess I need to add a deflector? Not sure yet.

I mounted it using the 10 foot unistrut mounted to the factory mounts on the roof, set the rack onto the unistrut and used 2 hole clamps (1 1/4 conduit clamps) to secure the rack to the unistrut. sorry, I don’t have pictures of the mount, but it’s pretty straight forward. I have about $350 total into the rack including hardware and paint.

Next time for paint

I then test fit the 5 kayaks

I then added a top rail, made out of 3/4 conduit and welded on ( take appropriate cautions when welding galvanized) the top rail is mounted with 3 1/2 flat steel cut to 6 inch lengths, I think it was 3/16 thick

Not my idea I saw it on Facebook, just my take on it I started out with 3 six foot farm gates, 2 ten foot sections of unistrut and 40 feet of 3/4 conduit First the farm gates were fitted together I cut the top off one and the bottoming the other two, to end up with an approximate 11’6” total length

Sorry, haven’t been here in a while. I uploaded the best pictures I have of the switch blank, and also pics of the wiring harness. Hope this helps future installers. I have towed about 6500 miles now with the red arc in my NV. BEST. TOWING. EVER. tows my 33’ travel trailer better than my 2500 suburban ever did. Very happy with this set up.

I believe it’s proper name may be a shift detent but am not sure. It is my understanding it stiffens the shift lever so that it is more difficult to change gears from park, reverse, neutral, drive. But I am not sure. Whatever it does am engineer who is hopefully smarter than me designed it to be in the system, I would like to keep it.

And the picture rotated 90degrees left. Sorry

Not the best picture, it was dark and I wanted it fixed. On the center of the screen is one of the two screw that hold the baby tooth in. You can also almost see the black metal spring clip that rear on the baby tooth when it’s all back together, it has some yellow grease/paint on it in the picture. It really is an easy fix. Good luck.

So today I lost the “baby tooth” from the steering column. Normally I would take it to the dealer and have it fixed under warranty (2018 3500 SL with 8357 miles) but I was just at the dealer today (1 hour away) for an oil change and front end alignment check. Now I was not overly worried as I have read many people have lost the baby tooth and never replaced it with no ongoing issues. But I am leaving for a trip to Yellowstone and expect to put over 2500 miles on and was not really looking forward to my wife worrying the entire time. So, I thought I would tackle it myself. I am fairly well mechanically inclined but really enjoy the thought that I am not the mechanic for this vehicle (yet). But that went out the window. So into the meat of the post. The fix 1. Remove the knee/kick panel below the steering wheel. There are two screw holding it in place, one behind the fuse panel cover and one behind the hood release. Then the panel will just pull out. 2. Disconnect the power mirror connector, traction control plug, then remove the temp sensor (one Phillips head screw) so that you can move the kick panel out of the way. 3. Look straight up to the bottom of the steering column, if you have lost the baby tooth, you will see two loose philips head screws, loser those up a bit. 4. There is a black metal flat spring, help in place with one screw, I believe it is on the end of a cable but not 100% sure, loosen that screw too 5. Fit the baby tooth back into place, it will only go in one way due to the location and staggering of the screws. In hindsight, a little locktite on those acres that hold the baby tooth in would probably be a good idea, any way put it in and tighten them up. 6. Adjust the black flat metal spring so that it fits snug into the first groove of the baby tooth. 7. Now reinstall everything in reverse order (HA I have read a chiltons manual 8. Go back into your house. Took me 15 minutes total time, and 30 minutes to write this up! I will try to attach some pictures. No promises

I just got back from towing my travel trailer aprox. 900 miles round trip with my 2018 Nv3500 passenger van. Trailer weighs about 7000lb loaded. This van pulled it easily, much better than my 2008 suburban 2500 with the 6.0L engine. I averaged 8.5 mpg doing 70 mph which was good to me. I have the Redarc towpro elite (purchased from etrailer) and highly recommend it. If I were in your shoes and going to be hauling weight everyday in the van (dust machine and sanders) I would rather have a van rated to haul slightly more weight than just enough. You know how these things go, and eventually more weight and tools find their way to the van than you originally intended. I would go with the 3500, I don’t think you will regret it. Good luck! And enjoy

Thanks for the advice on the trailer tires, a lesson I have already learned the hard way, had a blow out a few years ago. And you are correct on the cheap tires, it really wasn’t that much more expensive to get decent tires that were rated to a higher speed AND a higher load rating. I don’t remember what tires I got, what load range or speed rating they have, I just remember increasing both when I bought them.

Well a little delayed but finally made our first trip with the camper in tow. The brake controller worked as expected but the van, oh wow the power. It had the power to do everything except pass a gas station. Between the lowered mileage due to towing and small tank it was 2.25 hours between stops max. But it does tow nice! Mileage was much better if I stayed just below 70 than when I let it sneak up to 75. I really like the way this thing tows, it does a better job than my 2008 2500 suburban.

I don’t mean to come across harsh, but if you can’t figure out how to replace a headlight bulb on a NVp3500, you might want to stop trying to fix things yourself right there. It has to be one of the easiest light bulbs to change I have ever done.