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WOW. What a great idea. I will try that. Thanks.

Full coverage insurance?  This is a fire claim.  Did that to a Dodge many years ago.

Thanks in advance.   Here is my problem.   2018 Nissan NV3500 VIN  5BZAF0AA2JN851375   Let's start at the end.    The BCM is melted.  See attached images. The Main Harness plug into the BCM is melted.       The whole harness may need replaced but I am willing to rewire and repin the plug if I can get the correct wiring pattern.    Here is how I got here.    God told me to wait another day, I did not.    Driver door lock actuator not working. I dissembled the actuator and replaced the motor. I tested the actuator before I reassembled the housing. The motor popped loose because I was not holding it together strong enough in my hands. But it all went back together and worked. That is about the time I noticed the faint burning of plastic smell. It was so faint; I thought it just might be the floor mat odor. I reassembled the door.   Next, I moved on to cleaning the electric throttle body. Removed the air intake, pushed accelerator pedal to the floor with the key on to open the throttle body. I did not open. I tried for a few minutes and gave up to grab lunch.   Came back to work on car and found a golf ball size chunk of melted plastic on the floor mat under the steering column. Looked in the dash. found the melted parts. I disconnected the battery.   I pulled the instrument cluster to find the catastrophe. Murphy's Law, $3,000 part will sacrifice itself to save a 10 cent fuse.   I checked, I did not break any insulation and just reconnected plugs for the actuator and controls. I honestly do not know what caused the short at the BCM. An ant could have crawled in or the prolonged depressing of the accelerator, God teaching me a lesson is my best answer.   Here is my current situation. I will get it fixed. Here are the details. the BCM part number 284B11PA3C is currently unavailable nationwide from Nissan. But I found a couple on ebay and the internet.   Main Harness 240109JJ8A    My major concerns are:   that I cannot find the workable parts.   can you get the color codes for the plug into the BCM, I found plugs I can repin or splice.   that I replace all the parts, and the thing melts again.   that I will have issues reprogramming the BCM. Will it need to be reprogrammed?  

When you say newly cut key, do you mean a copy of a key?  Or did you get the key code and have one cut from the code? Don't know of any cronic lock issues.  If the prior owner used it 20 times a day, every day, it could just be worn out.  And no telling what someone may have done and what was the reason behind what they choose to do what they did.   

Welcome to the vagaries of Nissan keys.    Original key will not manually unlock doors. Didn’t know this as we always used the key fob. After thinking we lost a key and fob, bought new. Fob works fine, key unlocks doors but dead in the ignition.    Crusty most likely has the info you need. 

"DC Boost Buck Converter 9V-36V to 12V 5A 60W Stabilizer Waterproof Car Auto Step Up/Down LED Display Regulator"  - Free to contributing members of this forum (while quantities last).   WanderlustAV.   water is getting into your interior step-up through these open holes and is causing rust.   You need to close them off.

I didn't even know these things existed until my 03 F-250 gave up the ghost back in August on on the way back to the shop from the bank. It was only 118°and the aircon was blasting (until it wasn't) but there was ~500k on the clock, time to say goodbye. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse on a 2012 NV 2500 high top with 167k and bone-chilling aircon. I liked it right away. It also came with a worn out ignition/door key, which will run me $85 for a new and programmed replacement. (no fob) Are the door locking (non-power) mechanisms troublesome? I realize the passenger side door will benefit from a newly cut key, as will the ign lock cylinder, but the driver door and left side rear door both turn easily but nothing happens. The slider is also temperamental, but that one also might benefit from the new key. The seller said the connection between the driver door outside key receiver and the manual push to lock/pull to unlock deal is gone. I have no clue what's behind the plastic, no service manual as of yet. And I hate doing that type of repair. So do my knees.  Anyone here tackled a repair like that?

Thanks.   Staying off the pavement is one of our compromises. No longer willing to risk getting stuck.    Did you camp at Arches? Last time we did, we got caught in an early November snow storm. Too windy and temps in the teens, so we pulled the top down and slept below. Learned we needed better winter gear. 

PM sent.

Some input about adding a MaxAir vent fan to a van with a lithium battery.   Lithium batteries put out a higher 14 volts and this can fry the MaxAir speed control circuit board.     This was my recent experience in converting my van this year.   The fan worked for a while and then it would ONLY run on the highest speed.   This is documented on YouTube and the fix is to add a voltage converter that keeps the voltage around 12 volts.    A Chinese company called Drok makes this converter and I've installed in right within the fan housing.I    I have a few extra of these converters (retail about $15).      Send me an email and I'll mail one out to you.