aztec

On the caliper toque member (caliper bracket) there is a threaded on cylinder at the bottom with a loosely staked, plastic tipped cap on it.  One of mine has worn through the plastic and I can't find the thing in any parts diagram.

Edit:  I think I found it.  Possibly the steering stop cap.  That was a rather convoluted search.

Tighten the cable as described.  Common problem, verified fix.  Warranty?  You've just seen how valuable the warranty service is.

Only when I hit the nawz at less than full throttle.

Is there a way to swap sides with the ladder and the tire carrier?  Doors are overrated

Did a tire rotation at 60k.  Pads have 1/3" of meat on them and the rotors have little to no lip worn in.  Wear is even all around.  About 50/50 city/highway use.  At this rate they will outlast the van.  It's a 3500 high roof and I carry a load that would be fine in a 1500.  Did the 3500s get better brakes?

Did that 2 years ago.  Still working.

It was great.  40º at dawn but it warmed to about 60 for the balance of the day.  Warm enough for the tires to stick.  I never thought I'd say this but, warts and all, I'll miss that track.  Oh, and Tony Elias was there.  I got to dice it up with him.  Epic battle.  I drew first blood when I passed him as he pulled over to let his student catch up, he got me back in the cool down lane, and again in pregrid, so fair game to him.  

Loaded the 10R on the Joe Hauler, off to the last Fontana trackday.  The nASScar rednecks are tearing it up to make some kind of short track.  Left turn... left turn... left turn... 

I thought the evap canister was the culprit when it does that.

You should be able to peel off the cover on the seat back.  Otherwise maybe someone has your seat frame in stock and would be willing to look for you.  Good luck.

I have the electric seat and it has the tray.  Had to get the 3500 deluxe to get that seat and the V8.  

87750-1PA1A is the part number for the armrest.  Probably need a few other bits and bobs to attach it, but I'd bet the anchor point is there on your seat frame.

You'll see what happens all right.  That harness is for the ejection seat.

Any rat turds on the intake manifold?

Press and hold the power button until the unit reboots.

I used Woolich to de-restrict, change dash layout, etc.  I can even adjust the traction control for tire diameter.  I really like the thing.  Good luck with yours.  I suspect you'll love it.

Every tuner has their fav.  Our local gixxer builder uses Bazzaz.  Does some great builds with it.  Me, I'm done with dynos.  I made myself happy with the Woolich unit so I'll be sticking with that.  The best part is you can move it from bike to bike, only needing to buy an ECU key and connector harness.  Once tuned, all the parts come off as the tune is an ECU flash.

No need for a dyno unless you want to get into the weeds with ignition mapping.  It simply stores AFR data from a broadband O2 sensor as you  ride, graphs is on a throttle/RPM matrix, and allows you to reflash the ECM in stages as you move towards the targeted AFR.  It's literally as simple as it sounds.  Any future modifications are easily tuned for without spending mad cash to redyno the bike.  I'd also like to take this opportunity to pimp (pun intended) Kurvygirl.com for all your Vesrah brake pad needs.  Awesome source for that.  No relationship, just a very happy customer.

It would indeed be a ZX10R.  I tuned it with a Woolich setup.  Amazing stuff that.  I quit fiddling when it wanted to flip over backwards in the first 3 gears.  Another revelation was the Akra pipe.  They claimed a decent midrange boost.  I'll say.  It's now very un-10R like.  I run that thing with stock gearing. 

I shouldn't admit this, but given the logistics/motel options, I sleep in my NV at Fontana.  I bring the 10R there on a Joe Hauler.  It's quite the camper build.  I take out a few tool bags, throw in my gear, and sleep on a memory foam mattress rolled out in the back.  Cozy.

For the record, I did that almost 3 years ago.  Work van, so I open that door 10 or 20 times a day.  Still fine.  It's a bit cringy listening to the cable "sing" as it tensions when opening from the inside, but all good.  Nissan is aware of the problem and knows it's in the latch adjustment (AKA crap design or assembly).  So this is effectively a DIY bandaid, but what the heck, it works.

Ethanol, without getting into politics... wouldn't exist.  lol

Those systems are dependent on the accuracy of the gauge.  Be thankful yours doesn't overestimate remaining fuel.  People with that issue are a lot less satisfied.  As for crud/water in the tank, water is more dense than fuel, so on paper it would go first even on a full tank.  Also, and correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't ethanol (if you are cursed with that in your area) take water out of the picture unless you have some serious bad gas issues?  So it's floating/concentrated crud?  I can see that being an issue.  I'd be more concerned about the pump overheating and failing prematurely from not being submerged in fuel.

On 11/11/2022 at 12:24 PM, HERvan said:

Thanks for the suggestions.  I can comprehend and repair pretty much anything made prior to 1990, but all this modern stuff is beyond my capabilities.

Battery disconnect didn't work.  No alarm or other programming, other than the radio.

The aftermarket fobs were returned - obviously not compatible, even though the seller says they were.

Made an appointment with the dealer; 50 miles one way.  No independent shops locally that want to deal with a 10-year old vehicle for an oddball problem.

Fingers crossed that the dealer can correct the problem without it costing me an arm and a few toes!

There are software programs that mimic the factory consult computer.  Never seen one that advertises compatibility with the NV though.  There are also fob programming gadgets.  Worth a try before you go to the nuclear option.

2 suggestions.  Try disconnecting the battery for a minute or so and then repeat the learn process.  No idea if that will help, but it probably won't hurt.  Chances are very good there are capacitors which will thwart that reboot effort.  If you want to drain said caps, you can, but make certain you know the consequences to engine and transmission programming, and have any radio security codes at hand, if that is still a thing.  Or do the obvious and find someone with a diagnostic computer with those programming capabilities.