WanderlustAV

$57,750 59,xxx miles This is a Roadtrek Nav6 or N6 Active model camper van. It was Roadtrek’s own promo model before my company modernized and upgraded it to a 4 season camper. https://www.motortrend.com/features/163-1212-travel-the-n6-active-by-roadtrek/ Featuring shoulder belted seating for five that converts smoothly into two full sized, comfy beds, a powerful drivetrain and storage galore, this is the rig to ride when you want a roomier experience without the bulk and footprint of a big class B or RV. On road manners are impeccable for a van of this heft with comfortable seating, cruise, icy cold AC throughout, backup camera, bluetooth stereo, wireless charging cradle and an overall smooth ride. The 5.4L V8 is felt and appreciated on the passes and has an impressive towing capacity. Load rated BFG K02 tires roll like butter over dirt roads in the Summer without singing loudly on the pavement and top of the line Blizzaks mounted on their own rims keep you on the road in the Winter. Load up the good stuff in the deep pantry storage and dual fridges. LED puck lighting, 12v and 120v outlets abound throughout the cabin. The two seater rear bench folds out to a very comfortable bed in two motions. Hit the button and up goes the electric pop top for tons of cabin head room and a great view from the bunk. More than ample rear storage and all this fits into a 20' overall length so you won't feel cramped and stressed when parking and maneuvering. A fun, versatile, reliable and safe rig at an incredible value. RVIA listed and insures as a Class B RV. Available for rental before purchase- try before you buy if you like! Rental costs partially refunded/credited toward sale if you buy. https://www.outdoorsy.com/rv-rental/missoula_mt/2012_roadtrek_n6-active_247881-listing?preview=true Purchase options include bedding and camp kitchen, can outfit to suit. If you fancy renting this rig out yourself, the Wanderlust AV name, logo, popular Outdoorsy rental account and training can be included with sale as complete, turnkey business. Nissan NV3500HD 1ton Chassis 5.4L, naturally aspirated V8 15 MPG, or better, depending on driving style, tires, etc. 9,500 lb towing capacity, factory hitch and tow kit with tow mode. RWD (4wd conversions and lifts are available from a number of shops) 4 wheel ABS and selectable traction control. Adjustable rear air suspension Dual front/side airbags. Cruise control. OEM front and aftermarket rear cabin AC blows ice cold. Meticulously, professionally serviced with full records and factory service manual. Overall build by Roadtrek. Key upgrades by Wanderlust AV include: Electrical 200ah of modern, self heating, lifepo4 house batteries. Renogy DC to DC alternator charging with MPPT Solar input. Renogy Shore power charging- 15-30a. Furrion marine grade receptacle. In cabin monitor screen. Renogy One Core X2 Power AGM starter battery. Extended capacity, high CCA. Positive lug upgraded to marine style. Brand new 12v outlets, pop top lifts/motors, major Roadtrek terminal lugs professionally replaced with marine grade power lugs. Cabin Eberspsacher gasoline fired cabin heater and fan. Top of the line, professionally installed by Thermo King in Missoula. This heater absolutely blasts and will keep you toasty and dry your gear year round. Dometic CFX3 45 12v/120v fridge. Removable, with cover. The perfect armrest. Deluxe pop top foam mattress with waterproof cover, slip cover. Covers for all windows. Pop top seal replaced, fiberglass cleaned and waxed, fabric reconditioned and waterproofed/UV protected. Pop top bug screens professionally upgraded to privacy mesh by Customm Upholstery in Missoula. Keyless entry professionally installed by Aspen Sound HEPA cabin air filter. Pass side mid captains chair removed. Perfect layout to still seat 5. Driver side chair can also be removed for Westy style layout. Waterproof front seat covers- durable and easy to clean. Fresh, professional detail by Attention to Details in Missoula. Mechanical Meticulous maintenance by Missoula Nissan, Scott’s EQ and Wanderlust AV. Full synthetic oil change with OEM filter every 3750mi/3mo. Expensive and common P0448 Evap code permanently resolved by running fresh air line from evap canister to air intake under the hood. Work performed by Missoula Nissan with all new OEM parts. Fleet grade brakes/rotors and new rear air shocks professionally installed by Scott’s Eq in Missoula. OEM Nissan bug diverter and aftermarket front seat swivel included but not installed. Sold by Wanderlust Adventure Vehicles, LLC in Missoula, MT.

Had to cut off the factory nut for the flimsy oem terminal clamp and trim the plastic cover but have a marine style clamp now.

Still a 27F but a nice upgrade all around. Cost a pretty penny but worth it with a discount. 4yr warranty, real high CCA and low risk of draining the starter when parked with the dome lights or radio on, etc. I have one of these in a diesel and it'll cold start that engine in -40 F using a momentary glow plug switch. Only annoyance with these X2 batteries are the terminal posts. The posts just seem extra tapered and slick compared to normal batteries. They are high quality brass but, because of this I guess, never seem to get along with factory clamps. Not the worst thing as most factory terminal clamps could use an upgrade anyways. I typically go with marine style.

Replacing the sliding door step. Of course, I'm going to reinforce it properly beneath so it doesn't just crack again. Anybody know why there are so many vent holes, glands, etc. in this space? A lot of road noise comes up through here and I'd like to dampen it but don't see the point of applying sound deadener if all these holes and vents serve a functional purpose and need to be left intact. I suppose I'll just put the dynamat on the new step.

What's in there currently?

Absolutely insure it as an RV if at all possible. Far better rates and coverage for the money. I've supplemented with a Goal Zero Yeti 1500x for hunting trips and ski days where I needed more juice than the house battery was going to provide. When underway you can charge it with the N6's inverter and/or you can use portable solar with it. It's not a bad move to just add a portable power unit v. rebuilding the FLA battery system to lithium. You end up with some redundancy, portability and the inverter in the goal zero or similar is going to be way more efficient. Downside is it takes up more interior space. If you want to add solar, this might make a case for upgrading the electrical system as many b2b chargers have mppt built in.

The Roadtrek build was designed to plug in to shore power so if you're using campsites with power, worksites, friend's place, etc. it ought to be a great fit. If you want to boondock you'll need to be very careful about power usage or upgrade the system. Modernizing the electrical system is pretty expensive and is a decent amount of work that requires some proper electrical knowledge. Not necessary to open that can of worms if you're plugging in but know that you can't use all features of the van as built off it's house power, or at least not for very long. You've probably though of all this, but before buying one of these now decade old rigs check for rust, mold and for mice/rodent damage. Tires over 10yo should be replaced. Starter battery might be near done. Same for house batteries (NAPA has good, drop in replacements). If it wasn't regularly driven I'd also budget to have all fluids swapped. If yours has the black trim/running boards that's a less preferable trim to whatever else Roadtrek used later. Anyways, lots of good info in this thread here- good luck!

I had a shop do fresh brakes and rotors for me not quite a year ago. Went with the heaviest duty "service" option, which I believe is coated. Anyways, the braking is now excellent on my built out NV3500. Only downside is the service duty pads squeal a lot. The shop said I'd have to swap back to OEM to get rid of the squeal which sounds like a waste of good pads. Just something to watch out for; brake upgrade is definitely worth it but noises where they don't belong always bother me personally.

Here's where I ended up installing a Renogy IP67 rated dc-dc charger. Aside from the TrippLite inverter/charger, which is still original to the Roadtrek build (and charges the lifepo4 bank just fine when the dip switches are correctly set) the rig's electrical is now updated. I used the existing Roadtrek installed breaker on the starter side and the Renogy recommended ANL fuse on the house battery side. Doing it again, I would put manual reset breakers on either side so you have a way to cut power from the house banks and starter batt when needed for service. I also don't like having to carry spare ANL fuses, not that it's likely to ever be an issue. The Renogy gear had been fine and performed well in the more harsh install locations but the bluetooth connectivity is awful. The charger will pull up every time on the app but the battery bank may or may not. Not fun having to pull the batts out from the undercarriage to troubleshoot when it's actually just the crappy Renogy app/BT connection that's the problem. My batteries are the self heating model that need the BT module plugged into the com ports, it might be better if the battery has the BT built in but I'm not sure. The BT connection and app itself provide good insight to the batteries however.

Circling back to update here. @JGAN you are correct or, If the alt is smart, it doesn't require any wiring to work with the Renogy 50a charger I ultimately installed. *the Wagan model was DOA and was sent back.

Rear ac/heat is just that one vent I believe. I supposedly have #0, was the build used to sell the model, and it has the grey vinyl and black running boards. Yours is probably a later model, what year chassis? It'll be hard to figure out the evolution of this rig since Roadtrek was apparently going under while building it, few were made and Roadtrek didn't record anything about them. The shower/hose on mine only connected to city/shore water as far as I could tell. Maybe Roadtrek realized how useless this was and cut it out of the later models? Chrome runners have got to be better than the black trim. None of my black trim/running boards was installed proper. Where's the shore power located on the N6s with the chrome runners?

Mine has the same rims as AdventureMartens and it's 50psi front, 80 psi rear. I run K02s in Summer, Blizzaks in Winter. Once you bring them up to those pressures and/or go through the TPMS reset if needed (hope you don't, it's kind of a drag to do) you'll have a bit of wiggle room before the TPMS warning light illuminates. Mine seems to come on below 70psi. My N6 is actually built on a 3500HD so 80 psi in the rear + 3500HD suspension is wayyy to stiff. I like the front at 50 and the rear at at about 65 for normal driving (still too stiff imo), a bit lower on the rears if on dirt for a long time.

So, a year later here, I finally installed a Wagan Tech 40 amp dc to dc charger. I wanted to just stick something in the engine bay near where the old battery isolator was and it was basically this or a Redarc. Wagan indicates: "If your vehicle has fixed voltage or temperature compensating alternator (standard alternators) installed, leave the Ignition Override cable (BLUE color) open. If your vehicle has smart (variable voltage) alternator installed, the Ignition Override cable must be connected to the vehicle’s ignition. The 40A DC to DC Battery Charger will only operate when the vehicle’s ignition is turned on." Turns out the NV has a smart alternator, or that's what I'm reading in the attached from the FSM- "Adjustment range of power generation variable voltage control" -so I suppose I'll connect that blue wire. Anyone else have to connect to ignition for their dc-to-dc charger and know a convenient spot to hook in?

Nice work @AdventureMartens! Appreciate the write up too.

Agreed, it's a lot of work to put in upgrading the entire system and wire size may limit the inverter size to boot. I'd much rather build a fresh electrical system myself than try and revamp an existing but, compared to the costs and risks associated with a new van, my horror of owning a Sprinter and the low miles on this very reliable Nissan, the project remains tempting even for a 2012 model. The battery tray is very straightforward- put a jack under it, unbolt two threaded rods and lower. Mine had 2x 6v FLA batts wired in series. They were NAPA batteries and I returned the cores and purchased fresh ones which dropped in great. Going to 12v in parallel lets you double the amp hours in that tray but, again, you'll need some further upgrades to net the full capacity with the lifepo4. 12v AGM is probably the easy way out of this but the cost will have you considering the lithium, imo. I think flexible solar panels would be ideal on this rig, let us know how that install goes.