rvivian

I've just replaced the AGM batteries and have a Jackery "solar" generator that plug into the shore power connection to power the van. A smaller Jackery unit inside powers my wife's CPAP machine for three nights between charges.

$5500 Very nice job. They also replaced my house batteries.

Just back from Sebastopol with my new tent. Very pleased!!

My 2 year search to find someone to make and install a new tent on my N6 Active is over. Yesterday I delivered the van to GTRV in Sebastopol, CA who are going to install a new tent. Looks good so far. Will post pictures when completed.

Just a heads up for those considering new shocks: I've been driving with replacement Monroe shocks recommended here and by my RV mechanic since May 18th and I'm beginning to wonder if our N6 -Actives, particularly mine with two rear mounted boxes need something more heavy-duty. Driving about 5mph out of a Costco the rear bottomed out going over a speed bump. I installed Super Spring rear bump stop to prevent the bottoming issue. I'm thinking that maybe the original OEM shocks were more heavy duty than the Monroes recommended for NV2500 passenger vans or that Roadtrek installed NV3500 cargo van shocks. Any thoughts?

I've got a Roadtrek N8-Active that is based on the Nissan NV 2500. There is an N6 Active forum here with pictures of my van. I thought all of the NV 2500 wheels ar ethe same, but apparently the offset for the standard steel wheels results in the front wheels rubbing on the tie rods of my van with a 3" lift. Frankly I'm puzzled by it since the same lift on "regular NV 2500 vans does not require changing out the standard wheels and I saw the NV 2500 that these steel wheels came off. Has the offset changed over the years of NV 2500 production?

Bought a set of used NV 2500 steel rims and had them powder coated hoping to mount alternate tires on my lifted N-6. They rub on the tie rods while the original N-6 wheels don't. So I'll resell them but first I'd like to verify they are the correct rims for an NV 2500 before making a problem for someone else. Anyone know if there is a different offset or other difference on the original N-6 wheels? Why would one set fit and another not?

Roadtrek N6-Active. The black trim is likely unavailable anywhere since so few were made.

Thanks for that info. I'm off to Harbor Freight to buy a 3-ton high lift floor jack. Then we will see what needs to be done. Your photos are a big help.

Thanks for the detailed battery system report. Looking forward to your updates. The 2013 van is too old to do a complete electrical redo in my mind. I did that on my boat and it took a lot of time work. That was 10 years ago. I think I will just replace the existing AGMs, assuming that is what is in the tray. So far no one has been willing to look into the battery tray. Two RV places have "load tested" in 10 minutes and say I have about 50% to 60% of capacity left but no one really knows the age or actual type of batteries in there. Or what the condition of the connections is. Might be the original 6 volt AGM units. None of the maintenance records I got with the van 3 years ago indicate a battery change-out. I'm planning on visiting LES Schwab to get the batteries changed out without a lot of drama. I am also planning on adding flexible solar panels on the roof, though. Have bought the parts; just a haven't gone up there to do the install.

Thanks for this. It's a good idea. I guess I'll look for Omar the tent maker. Didn't think of that. On another note: how did your battery system work out? Are you charging the lithium house batteries with the original Triplite or have you changed it out for something else.

Next issue: Anyone replaced the pop top canvas in their N6? I'm going to need to do that soon.

Local RV shop today recommended the same Monroes you recommended. To be installed on the 18th. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks/ I think I'll go to Les Schwab and have them install the Monroes unless they have other recommendations'.

It seems to ride alright, so I think the springs are OK, but she is getting a bit bumpy.

Thanks for the quick reply. I agree, I don't want the front King coilovers. I'm concerned about the extra weight on the rear from having the two boxes on the rear swing bumper, Do you think the Monroe 66420 is hefty enough or should I look for something like Bilstein 5100?

I need help with new shocks. My N-5 has a 3" Weldtech lift but they have left the original 2012 shocks in place with an adapter and say they cannot get replacement shocks. At 70,000 miles and the additional weight of the rear swing bumper and boxes I need new shocks. The Nissan dealership said they will not work on my van because of the modifications. Anyone have recommendations for new shocks for both the front and back?

The best seat covers I've found are: https://www.wetokole.com/ They make them for captain seats and will customize if you want. $$$ though

TXRax.com

The Fiamma awning was already mounted when I bought the van. The manual for it showing three mounting brackets bolted to the van came with it but the mounting brackets on my van look different. The look like they are made from 3/8" aluminum. Here are a couple of pictures I took while the sun was shining just now:

It is still cold here and I can't check whether the water fill feeds more than the shower until I flush the antifreeze. But I have real interest in how the power and water shore connections would be relocated to the van wall because I'm installing a Wallas Nordic dt in a cabinet behind the drivers seat and I haven't found a route for the exhaust to go under the van there due to fuel tank, batteries, etc. I'm considering installing the hot exhaust through the van wall. That is regularly done through fiberglass and metal boat hulls, and I've seen one Brit you -uber rdo it through the wall of his van ). Aside from thoughts about CO / exhaust below the window: how do you treat the edges of the hole through the metal to inhibit rust, what are the chances the hot exhaust and metal thru-hull fitting damaging the paint? Any and all comments appreciated.

WanderlustAV - Any pictures and hints concerning relocation of the Power and water inlets after you removed the running boards? thanks RWV

I drove down and had Weldtech Designs install a 3" lift on my Roadtrek N6 Active (2599 HD) two years ago. The lift is great and I've had no problems. Every mechanic that's looked at it since comments on the great lift.

Thanks for the reply. Roadtrek only built a few N6 Active (maybe 30 to 50 total) and they claim not to have any manuals or wiring diagrams. The fuse panel has fuses labeled for all sorts of things I don't have as if the wiring for them is already installed but I haven't been able to find where they might be located or access them. There is a bundle down below the fuse panel, but nothing seems to run up to the pop-top. Need to look more. I've got parts for several projects including solar panels, a Pepwave cellular/Wi-Fi modem for internet access, and one of those Chinese parking heater systems; but so far haven't finished installing any of them. As I age, I tend to overthink stuff an take a looong time to implementing them. Keeps me busy. Thanks for the fluke instrument info, I hadn't thought of that.

Hi - New here and looking for information. I've got a 2013 N6 that I had Weldtec lift 3" and install a double swing rear bumper with two Aluminess boxes. I've also removed the second-row captain's seats and installed some storage for a luggable loo and storage drawers and a small Engle fridge/freezer. I want to add solar panels and a Peplink wireless / cellular modem. Mounting the antenna and solar panels on the pop top is pretty easy. I am mounting the solar controller and the modem on the rear shelf since there are only two of us and I'm too old to climb up there to sleep. The fuse panel has fuses labelled for a CO detector, Fresh water pump, driver side receptacles, passenger side receptacles, fridge, roof mounted TV, roof vent, passenger side lights, driver side lights, and roof lights. As far as I know - I don't have a CO detector, a TV, or a roof vent. I am looking for a way to access the electrical chase and repurpose some of the pre-installed wiring (if it is there) to get 12V for the modem and to pass the solar wiring down to the batteries. Is there an access near the top of the van? Is there pre-installed wiring to match the fuses? Anyone have a wiring diagram or used the wiring to install a fan or TV? Bob