peter_fazio

Systemic_Anomaly, I have a 2013 NV Passenger with the Quigley 4X4 conversion. I am very surprised to hear that the Quigley conversion puts the NV over the front GAWR. I was told explicitly by Quigley ( Ernie Sartalis ) that they will not do any conversions that would exceed the manufacturers load ratings. He even mentioned that on certain models (Chevy I think) that they have to permanently remove the 4th row seat because with the conversion it would exceed the rear GAWR. Quigley does everything by the book as far as safety and DOT regulations are concerned. I am curious as to what the front GAWR is for the NVP? Kinda' surprising since the front end is very robust looking. If you compare the front suspension on the NV to a Transit, it makes the Transit front end look like it belongs on a car. I have had my conversion for 2 years now and have not had any issues with it. I would contact Quigley and ask them your specific question. They are very helpful and very informed about the details. good luck, Pete Fazio

C5drvr, No. The Quigley conversion maintains the stock 8 lug hubs/wheels. Pete

Coloraaadho, Well, I think I will give you the opposite take on the 4WD NV. I have a 2013 NV3500 passenger with the Quigley 4WD conversion. I spent the first 3 years with my van having RWD. I found that I got stuck in lots of places where it was just slippery (ie wet muddy grass, dirt inclines, etc). I typically would be towing a trailer full of dirtbikes. The stock tires (Firestone Transforce) were almost useless in anything even remotely loose or slippery. I upgraded to BFG All Terrain KO2 tires. They were a huge improvement in traction, but I still had lots of difficulties especially in wet muddy fields ( like you would find at dirtbike events in the Northeast). The so-called active traction control on the rear axle helps, but is very limited in its ability to transfer drive torque to the other (non-slipping) wheel. I would contend IF you could equip the NV rear axle with a proper locking differential then it would be much more capable in low traction situations. So, about a year ago I had my NVP converted by Quigley. BTW, they do an outstanding job, it really looks like a factory setup. Since, I have been converted to 4WD, essentially all my traction issues have gone away. I now can tow my trailers up slippery hills and go where I need to go w/o having to resort to chains or other temporary traction aids. Personally, I love it. I have been driving full size vans for 40 years and have always put up with the marginal traction that comes with the standard RWD setup in vans. I now feel like I can take my NVP offroad w/o being concerned about getting stuck. Now as to the lift, my NVP does not have a lift. It is still the stock height after the 4WD conversion. Quigley will convert the NV with or w/o a lift. As to the low range in the transfer case, the Quigley conversion does have a 2 speed transfer case. The shift lever is blocked from engaging 4WD low range. I have personally removed the blocking bracket and manually shifted the transfer case into low range. Yes, the Quigley transfer case does have low range, but you will have to modify the shifter linkage to be able to engage low range from inside the cab. All in all, I am happy with my 4WD conversion, I feel, that it makes my van much more capable while off pavement. Pete Fazio

SilverNV, Quigley goes exactly by the book. Nissan does not want them doing a Low range in their 4WD. Quigley has a very close relationship with Nissan, also a very profitable one, I assume. Quigley will not do anything to these vans that would jeopardize their relationship with Nissan. I was told this by my Quigley rep when I asked about having a low range included in the conversion. Pete

Hi folks, I had my 2013 NVP3500 converted to 4WD by Quigley in January 2017. I wanted to spend a bit of time with it before giving my review, since I don't drive it very much (17K miles in 3.5 years). Quigley performed my conversion very quickly, my vehicle was in and out in under 2 weeks. They did say that was kind of unusual, I just happen to get into the build schedule at a good time. Let me say right up front that Quigley does a very professional conversion, everything looks just about OEM. Quigley's customer service is also top notch, they keep you informed about the build and they attend to all the little details. Your vehicle comes back to you all converted with no signs that someone has been doing major surgery on your vehicle, ie. no mechanics tracks are left. The only thing that I could "ding" them on was pretty nit picky, underneath the van I found that they didn't clip off the tails of the wire ties when they secured the transfercase wiring. I could hear the tails of the wire ties rattling up against the heat shields, so 1 minute w/ a pair of sidecutters and all was pretty much perfect. I am very pleased with the fit and finish of their conversion. Now on to the driving experience. When I drove my van home from Quigley ( which is only 40 minutes) I could not tell any difference in the van. Running in 2WD, I could not even tell that anything underneath was different. No vibrations, no noise, nothing. I drove both highway (up to 75 mph) and local back roads and the van felt utterly the same as it did before the conversion. When I got home, I took the van of the pavement out onto my yard and fields. The terrain was wet and muddy grass. Pulled the lever into 4WD and off she went. The van was transformed from a vehicle that would get stuck on anything that was even slightly slippery to a vehicle that could climb wet grassy, muddy inclines with no problem. I could now easily retrieve my trailers that are located down near my stream and tow them out through wet sloppy terrain. Utter night and day difference in tractive capability. We had a late March snowstorm this year that dropped 10 inches of wet, heavy snow on our roads. Early that morning, before the snowplows got to our roads, I took the NV out for a snow test ride. I used to get stuck in my driveway on a couple of inches of snow before the conversion. Now, with 4WD egaged, I headed out into 10 inches of wet snow that was unplowed. I drove all around my area with no problem, uphills it just claws it's way through the deep stuff. I was very impressed with the ability that the van has now, no more fears of getting stuck if I take the van off the pavement. Only thing that I could tell when in 4WD, was a slight whirring sound from the transfercase when driving through the snow. One caveat I should mention is that I do not have the stock Firestone Transforce tires, I have a set of BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO2 275/65-17 tires, so they definitely help the tractive capability. So all in all, I am very pleased with the conversion and feel that the addition of 4WD has made my NVP much more versatile for use as a recreational/adventure vehicle. Now one other note, since I am a lifetime gearhead and a vehicle dynamics engineer, I always find myself investigating/repairing/modding any of my vehicles. This led me to investigate as to whether or not the Quigley 4WD conversion was just a single speed (4WD HI only) or (4WD HI and 4WD LOW). Using the interior lever you can only engage 2WD and 4WD HI. There is a "blocker" bracket mounted to the t-case that prevents the lever from moving past 2WD toward Neutral and then to 4WD LOW, also the interior lever will bottom against the floor before the lever can move the t-case past Neutral. But, if you go underneath the van and disconnect the linkage to the t-case, you can then manually shift the t-case lever into Neutral and 4WD LOW. I tested this. I went underneath the van, disconnected the linkage, shifted the t-case lever into 4WD LOW. I started the van, noting that the 4WD indicator light was now illuminated, and then drove out onto my driveway. Sure enough, the transfercase was in 4WD Low Range ( low range is something on the order of a 2.76 : 1 ratio). You could easily tell since the van was now moving slowly when the engine revs were up. So, the t-case is definitely a 2 speed box. So, an enterprising person could modify the linkage such that you could engage the 4WD Low from inside the van, Just saying, since doing this would likely void your Quigley warranty. But for all those wondering about this issue, yes, it is truly a HI and LOW range transfer case. And we know from others on this forum who have the Advanced 4WD conversion that the issue with "going into limp mode" due to transmission / wheel speed sensor mismatch while in Low range can be avoided or compensated for. Pete Fazio 2013 NV3500 passenger Quigley 4x4, Aluminess front bumper

Hi Scmotormind, I have a center console out of my 2013 NV3500 passenger. It is in perfect condition, I took it out when the van had about 1K miles. I would sell it for $300.00 plus packaging and shipping. It is pretty big, so I would have to do a bit of research to find out how much it would cost to ship from 17322 (near York, PA) to 50613. Let me know if you are interested and I will go about measuring, finding a box and getting a quote for shipment. Also, if you send me your email, I can send you some pictures of the console. Pete Fazio 2013 NV3500 passenger, Quigley 4WD, Aluminess front bumper 717-659-6883 (cell)

By 2 speeds, I mean 4Hi and 4Lo. 2Hi is a given. All I can tell you is what Ernie Sartalis at Quigley said to me. I thought he said that the 2017 NV would have a 4Lo option. Maybe I misunderstood him. Pete

Jaredg, Sorry for the late reply. But, yes, I have the factory wiring diagram for the headlights on the NV. I will attach the file for the exterior lighting. Pete EXL.pdf

KMG, When I was at Quigley this week. I saw the Nissan 7 speed and transfercase sitting in the shop. Yes. They are working that issue and Ernie claims that the 2017 NV will have the 7 speed trans and that they will be able to have the 2 speed transfercase in the NV. Pete

TX Marshmallow, I was just at Quigley this week and spoke at length w/ Ernie Sartalis (Nissan conversion sales rep). The statement that they make about using 90% Nissan parts is that they don't have to remove or change out any major factory parts. The suspension, brakes and steering stay factory Nissan NV. The only change they make to factory parts is to machine the front hub to accept the front halfshaft splines. They also remove the auto trans tailshaft and add an adapter to mount the transfercase. The transfercase is a Magna and the front differential is an American Axle Manufacturing 9.25. The rear driveshaft and front driveshaft are custom made in-house at Quigley. (BTW, they have a couple of awesome driveshaft lathes on the premises for doing custom shaft work). I suppose you could source a magna transfercase and an AAM 9.25 diff, but the transmission to transfercase adapter and the machined front hubs are custom quigley parts. So, underneath nothing looks like a Nissan Titan, except the engine and transmission. Also, Ernie claims that the new Titan XD does NOT use the same rear axle as the NV. That is the statement he made to me when I asked about sourcing an e-locker from a Titan XD for use in the rear diff of the NV. Pete

Hi, I just signed my contract w/ Quigley for my 2013 NVP to be converted. I am scheduled for a mid-January build. I happen to live about 20 miles from the Quigley factory, so going w/ Quigley was my best option. I could not talk them into a 2 speed transfer case. Quigley goes exactly by the book. They will not do anything that might jeopardize their relationship w/ Nissan. They are very strict about making the vehicle absolutely compliant w/ all Federal motor vehicle safety laws and will only do conversions that are "blessed" by Nissan. Quigley has a very professional shop, I was impressed w/ their attention to detail. When I get my conversion done in January 2017, I will post a report on the quality of the conversion. Pete Fazio 2013 NVP, Aluminess front bumper

Hi, Jared I just saw your post about my driving light setup. Yes, I got the system to work. I made a small wiring pigtail that goes between the right headlight bulb and it's harness. I tap off of the hi beam +12v to trigger the driving light relay. I let the lo beam +12v go through uninterrupted. I take the headlight ground directly to frame ground via the pigtail, which separates the harness end from ground. In doing it this way, there is no backfeed through ground which would normally illuminate the DRL's when the light switch is off. The setup works great. The driving lights go on with the hi beams, the lo beams work as normal, but you will not have any DRL functionality. Also, by using the pigtail, I can unplug the pigtail from between the headlight and the harness and then plug the harness back onto the headlight and restore all the lighting to factory stock. Pete

Bates, Counterpoint here, my 2013 NV 3500 SV Passenger came with 245/70-17E. I have seen in the Nissan literature where the NV passenger comes with 245/70-17 and the cargo version comes 245/75-17. The size is clearly stated on the tire placard on my NVP. I have also noticed that all tire websites indicate that all fullsize NV's use the 245/75-17. Honestly, the difference between the 245/70-17 and the 245/75-17 is that the 75 is 3.2% larger in diameter, ie. 30.6inch vs. 31.5 inch . Pete

All, I have been doing some further research about tieing into the hi beam circuit for aux. lights. It appears that if you use the hi beam hot (+12v) from either right or left headlamp for your aux. lighting relay trigger , then that will cause a ground path when the main light switch is in the OFF position and the DRL's are lit. This ground path will likely energize the hi beam lamp on the side that you tapped into and will also energize the relay for the aux. lighting. NOT GOOD. A simple work around came from a suggestion by Tatunka about disabling the DRL circuit. He said that removing fuse F3 (DRL main fuse) in the IPDM fuse block (number 45 fuse in Headlamp circuit diagram in FSM exterior lighting) would disable the DRLs. This is true, but as a side benefit, this also disables the power feed that would cause the added aux. relay trigger to energize the hi beam lamp and aux. lighting when the light switch is off. So, with the F3 fuse pulled out, you have no DRL's and the lo/hi beam circuit work like a normal setup and as such you can tie in your aux. lighting relay trigger to the hi beam or lo beam hot (+12v) for running driving lights or fog lights triggered off of your hi/lo beams. This is all still speculation from pouring over the circuit diagrams ( except for the pulling of fuse F3, which Tatunka has tested) as I have yet to do the installation and fully test out the theory. Pete Fazio

Andy, Yes. I too have been wondering about pulling the DRL fuse. Maybe that might alleviate the issue. As a test setup, one of my co-engineers here suggested that I build a small wiring "pigtail" that would be placed inline between the headlamp connector and the headlight wiring harness. This way, if it does cause an issue, you can just remove the inline wire pigtail and leave the factory harness intact and if it does not cause an issue and it triggers the aux. lights correctly, then you could just leave it in place. I may build one of these test setups and try some experiments. I will post my results after I build the connector and do some testing. Pete