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If one were to use them; any concern about frame damage?

 

Anyone seen them listed somewhere for a great price?  I wouldn't mind bolting them on.  Front doesn't seem quite complete with them missing.

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I have used the tow hooks twice.  Got stuck in wet Southern clay which has about as much traction as buttered ice with the stock Firestones. They are really beefy and I cant see any issue with possible frame damage.  

 

You can check the various online Nissan parts sites (some are listed on this forum) or junk yards for a set.  

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If anyone needs one, send me a message. I have one I bought, and it was on the van only a few weeks before I replaced it with a winch mount with integrated loop. I will sell it to you very cheap. 

 

I might not reply right away, I only visit here once a month or so. 

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I'm new to the world of towing, so I could use some eduction.  Why does the van have two tow hooks in the front?  Are you supposed to use both of them in tandem?  Or do you choose a single hook based on the angle when recovering the vehicle?

 

A neighbor helped pull my van out of snow using one of the tow hooks and a tow strap.  The only damage to the van was a small paint chip on the tow hook where I attached the tow strap's hook.  I since learned that I should have used a recovery strap, not a tow strap.  I'll have to find one of those for next time.

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Wording can be funny on straps.  What you want is stretch, you do not want to use a chain, steel cable, etc unless it is hooked up to a winch (electric or manual) or some other pulley system.  I have seen them labeled as recovery straps, snatch straps and all sorts of other names.

 

The idea behind them works well 95% of the time.  You hook up, slowly start to pull away from stuck vehicle and you build a large load of pressure in the strap.  The strap tries to recover like a bungee and that extra little "oomph" really helps pull the stuck vehicle out.  I've pulled trucks out of ditches in the winter time with a lightweight Golf GTI.  The key is I had to have good traction.  I'd get a little slack and a small running start and really yank on that strap, once it started to pull tight and recoil I would stand on the brakes to anchor my Golf and let the strap do the work.  If stuck vehicle started moving I would quickly start backing away again.  I bet I would pull at least a person a week out during winter season (I worked at a ski resort).

 

Static load straps, chains and cables are great for pulling a static load or if you can use something like a winch, come-a-long or even block and tackle.  They put a huge amount of shock to the anchor points with every tiny slip and it just brute force vs. stuck object.

 

Biggest thing to watch for is a snapped strap of any kind - recovery or static load.  You have a cable, rope, Something under thousands of pounds of pressure and if it snaps it can get really ugly fast.  People have died or lost limbs by that thing whipping around.  A lot of newer recovery straps that I have used are braided or woven and if they do snap they dissipate energy very quickly.  They sort of explode into fibers (yes, I have snapped them!).  You may get a bad welt or bruise and maybe a ding or scratch in your car vs. lopping off your foot or taking your windshield out!  

 

Oh, the tow hooks - I used them for angles.  If you were Really stuck, like buried and sitting on the frame then I would absolutely use both hooks for max pull if possible.  Setting up to pull out is harder though since ideally both straps need loaded very close to the same.  

 

Anybody know what the max load rating of our hooks is?  I've had to use mine twice!  Once was when I was hooked up to our camper too.  Tow truck winched me right out but it was only a slight slope.  Super wet Southern red clay soil and stock Firestones equals zero traction.  I was buried 6" deep in no time.

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