Safety Issues - fully loaded conversion

[wollip]

After recently weighing our 2012 NV 2500 high roof conversion (a diy project) at the CAT scale, I'm wondering about the driving and braking safety of our now "fully loaded" rig. Our new GVW is 8300 lbs and swells to 8700 towards the end of an extended travel trip. I know that the GVWR weight limit for this vehicle is 9100 lbs but I am wondering if I am "pushing it" at this point.

So, I'm looking for opinions and recommendations.

If this modified NV was yours, would you feel the need to change anything for the sake of increased safety - tires, brakes, rotors, whatever?

 

And there is also the issue of shifting the center of gravity due to upper cabinets, roof rack, AC unit, etc. Is there any recommendation for equipment to help counter that new "upper body weight".

 

Side note - I do not tow anything.

 

[i'm defining Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) as the actual weight of the fully loaded vehicle, including all cargo, fluids, passengers, and optional equipment, as measured by a scale.]

[DesertTed]

I second that question. Hub and I,too, will be carrying the same ratio proportionately. We will be carrying a boatload of water for extended boondocking on public lands where water is scarce. We also will weigh in at least 8700, possibly well over, at the beginning of an extended trip, says Hub. He also checked on the pillar behind the driver's door and the GVWR for our 3500 is 9900 pounds.

 

We plan on carrying the water in the cabin while on the Interstate, but on the roof while poking down country, forest roads.

 

We'll have upper cabinets, but they'll be carrying clothing and light sutuff. But they, themselves weigh a bit. Also, the solar, which is mounted on 3/4" plywood.

 

Thanks,

Ted

Edited January 17, 2017 by DesertTed

[wollip]

The first thing I should have done, of course, is to have gone with the 3500. I never imagined that the weight would add up that fast.

I guess we are not unlike the majority of commercially built RVs which seem to all build right up to the limit - usually leaving little more than a 400 to 700 lb buffer.

 

You raise another point of view but both lead to the same question regarding safety. Even if a conversion build isn't approaching the limit on its own, how much additional cargo can be safely hauled?

[radin2son]

Wollip, I wouldn't worry about being close to, but under 9100 lbs as the vehicle is built for this. Nissan probably expected the limit to be pushed by commercial users.

 

I would be concerned, not overly, about the center of gravity in certain conditions, but this may be more of a loading issue. (UHaul has instructions for loading trailers and moving trucks. Did we ever follow them?) Since you have high cabinets, you can put light items in them, or take less stuff. As rick Steves says, we never say "I should have packed heavier." Same for what you put on the roof. We are constantly eliminating things and not trying to be prepared for every possible condition. Water is the exception out west...but there always is Walmart.

 

What are the real differences between the 2500 and 3500? Larger tires and 1 more leaf in the suspension... Same brakes, powertrain, tow capability. Wait and see what needs to be replaced and why.

[breeze]

So 800 lbs cargo wt. is the difference between the 2500 and 3500? I max my motorcycle weight out, and I just have to pay special attention to tire clearances, bigger suspension, heavier fork oil, chain adjustments, tire wear, oil changes, etc... Smaller tires should get better gas mileage and the 2500 may be more comfortable too. So paying attention to minimizing your weight may be a good thing for safety and economy. You may have the optimum rig setup.Try it for a million miles first. An engineer axiom is make static structures about 30 to 50% stronger than the specs. However, a vehicle is dynamic forces, but you are staying within specs: so I would not worry about a Nissan within specs. The NV 2500 Tall V8 I test drove this week was the finest vehicle I ever rode in. Enjoy it! It is perfect in my book.

 

Of course a pre- and post-trip weighing may be good until you are comfortable.

Edited January 18, 2017 by breeze

[NVAir]

wollip,

 

I'm guessing your truck was just under 6,200 lbs from the factory.  So you added 2,100-2,500 lbs?

 

What did you add in your conversion?

 

I'm looking at doing my own and wasn't figuring on adding the type of weight it looks like you did.  So I could be underestimating by a large amount.

 

Any photos to share?

 

Thanks.

Edited January 18, 2017 by NVAir

[breeze]

wollip,

 

I'm guessing your truck was just under 6,200 lbs from the factory.  So you added 2,100-2,500 lbs?

 

What did you add in your conversion?

 

I'm looking at doing my own and wasn't figuring on adding the type of weight it looks like you did.  So I could be underestimating by a large amount.

 

Any photos to share?

 

Thanks.

 

Ditto, that's equivalent to 5 x 50 gallon barrels of liquid or 1.25 tons or 10 x 250 lbs. adults.

Edited January 19, 2017 by breeze

[wollip]

Thanks to all of you that replied - I value your opinions.

I'm pleased that there are no major concerns on this.

 

In response to a question about what I added to amount to so much weight, I'll just say that I added the usual stuff and that yes it does add up quickly - weight and cost.

[NVAir]

Wollip,

 

Would you say the inside of yours is built out like this https://www.instagram.com/vanlifetravelogue/?

 

I plan a much simpler build but am a little concerned since I will also be towing a trailer that weighs about 7,500-8,000 lbs.

 

Thanks.

[wollip]

Well , my teeth are definitely not that white!