Interior dome lights?

[Nvdad81]

We finally got the nv today and I am pumped. It's actually better than I had hoped, it rides incredably smooth and is very comfortable.

 

But we were trying to find something inside when it was dark out and I couldn't figure out how to turn on all the dome lights without opening the door. I know I can open any door and it turns on all the lights but I can't find a switch that turns on all the lights. Every other vehicle I have owned has had a switch somewhere on the dash usually connected the instrument display illumination.

 

Am I missing something obvious? Or can I only turn on 1 dome light at a time?

[andy_george]

You're correct, there is no master switch to turn them all on. That's one of the more frequent complaints people have. It could be done by tapping into the wiring from the drivers door to a switch, but so far I'm not sure if anyone has bothered doing that...

[Nvdad81]

That sounds like a fun side project I think there is a blank switch space on the driver door side of the dashboard.

 

Thanks Andy

 

Nvdad81

[ASD Dad]

If you do it please post back and let us know how it went.  I think there is at least one other that did it but they never said how and they dont post much.  We were pretty frustrated that we could not turn them all on but got over it and we're now used to it.  

[CaptainLarry]

NVDad81, I'm right behind you.  I just got my new-to-me 2014.  I have been eyeing that switch blank too.  Pull a wire to the door switch and you could easily turn all on, as long as the individual switches are set to center (door).  A more sophisticated approach would be nice, but I don't have much experience with wiring harness.

[Nvdad81]

I'm not overly good at electrical. Maybe I'll talk to one of the mechanics at my dealer to see if they have any suggestions on how to do it. I'm interested in seeing it I can get a switch from another Nissan vehicle with a 3 position switch. Would be cool if it was even labeled on/off/door

[ASD Dad]

If you wire into the door switch which would be easiest, I would think it would activate the door open warning light and chime that your keys are in the ignition when you turn the switch on.  That may not matter to you or somebody doing it but something to think about.

 

I swear there is at least one person that did it on here and they wired into the overhead lights I think...  I may need to do some digging.

[SoundinSpirit]

Researching this stuff now... did anyone find a solution? 

[CaptainLarry]

No.  I have a 3 position Nissan switch, but I'm just too lazy to start into this.

[HERvan]

I have modified mine for interior lights.  E-mail me and I will send the information anyone needs.  kczflea dot factory - at - cox dot net.  HERvan

[ASD Dad]

Why cant you post it here?  I am sure a LOT of people would like to know how to make them work off a switch up front.

[andy_george]

Please post here!

[CaptainLarry]

I'm working on this project now.  I'm trying to get ready for a big Western trip, although this is not the most pressing project.  I'd rather invest in a 15 gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

 

I am going to use the 3 position switch I had bought, but I had to reposition one of the wires to an open terminal to get 3 hot positions.  That was tricky but it is made to do that.

 

Pos1 - "Off" - Door control is off.  Passengers can still turn on reading lights individually.

Pos2 - "On" - All reading lights are turned on overhead regardless of individual push button positions.

Pos3 - "Door" - A new string of LEDs which I intend to wedge into the existing fixture will be set to come on with the door switch.  This will be the only way I can turn off the reading lights should I need to while I'm driving (like when I need to see better in the moment.) 

 

This is not exactly what I hoped for and it is requiring significant wiring like adding the new toggle switch, a new 5 conductor wire overhead and all new LEDs for the doors.  I'm in to it now so for better or worse I'm going for it.  This weekend I do my final test on the circuits before I buy the needed LEDs.

 

I'll keep you posted.  This project is taking a long time, so be patient.

 

Now, if any one can get me 10-15 extra gallons of fuel on board - please let me know (in a different thread of course).

 

LAr

[CaptainLarry]

BTW - I emailed HERVan at the posted address and he never replied.

[CaptainLarry]

I see yesterday's post did not make it up here...I have such problems with this site.

 

I can't seem to get the photo of the Quest switch uploaded either.

 

Well, I finished my tests this weekend and ordered the LED replacement bulbs to finish the project.  20pcs LED 921 bulbs and sockets.

 

The switch is from 2004... Nissan Quest.  I can't find the Nissan P/N.  I bought it used with 3" of wire on the connector plug which was very helpful.  Ebay.  Had to switch one wire terminal to get three hots since "off" was "off" but now it powers the reading lights only.  The blank cover just popped out easily and the switch popped right in like it was made for it. 

 

One question:  I routed the new 5 conductor wire from the control console (lower front center) behind the dash board, up the door column next to the AIR BAG and across the roof.  I'm concerned about the wire interacting with the air bag.  Any thoughts?

 

More to come when the lights get here.

Edited July 17, 2019 by CaptainLarry

[CaptainLarry]

I'm just about finished now.  Everything is wired and working as it should with three defects I need to address due mainly to sub-par light bulb sockets.  They are rubber and a easily deformed and also some of their wires are very thin and weak.  Besides that, the system is working as intended.  It's actually pretty nice.

 

The work was pretty tedious and taking considerable time.  Had I rewired the four modules at once in sequence it would have gone faster.  The switch modules pop out of the ceiling pretty easy.  Take time to look for the various snap features that characterize the whole design.  The unit un-snaps and then snaps together again easily, except the problematic rear light that is ultrasonic welded together in some spots.  That rear light is a hot mess.

 

Each OEM fixture has a three wire connection: hot (light blue), door conditional ground circuit (dark blue), common ground (black).  I tapped into hot at one fixture then fed back to the 3 pos switch (New Blue).  After rewire, the dark blue and black are tapped into at each point for serving their original purpose: dedicated door light conditional ground (OEM dark blue), "ON" and reading common ground (OEM black). The switch then switches 3 hots as mentioned above back to the light fixture. 

 

Pos1 - "Off" - Door control is off.  Passengers can still turn on reading lights individually. (New Red)

Pos2 - "On" - All reading lights are turned on overhead regardless of individual push button positions. (New White)

Pos3 - "Door" (New Yellow)

 

I gutted most everything from the light fixture except the two push buttons and their connector.  I reclaimed the two diodes for the new circuit for the same purpose: allowing the reading lights to turn on one at a time.  The main difference in the arrangement is that the door open circuit is routed through a new set of lights added to the fixture - so each fixture has 4 lights.  That makes everything pretty crowded. The new 921 lights are pretty long, but they do fit.  Again the rear light has the most trouble in this regard.

 

Besides the rear light, the challenge for me was the many wire connections: soldering, nuts, taps, etc. 

 

Good bulbs, long, bright, polarity is a pain, not problem with CMOS.

GRV T10 921 194 13-5050 SMD Wedge LED Bulb lamp Super Bright Warm White DC 12V Pack of 10

 

Cheap sockets, rubber - good because they squish, bad because they squish, some bad wire. i used a grinder to make the socket OD smaller in diameter.

TOMALL 20pcs T10 194 W5W LED Light Bulb Socket Pre-wired Connector for

 

If I can ever load my wiring diagram the color references may help more.  Note: the 5 conductor thermostat wire only used four wires.  Green was not used.

 

LAr

Edited May 11, 2021 by CaptainLarry

[Jim Kistler]

I’m looking to install just a cut off switch for the dark blue & the black wires for “OFF” and provide (-) on the dark blue to the lights for “ON” with diode to not back feed the key light or the BCM. Any suggestion where I can tap into the three wires (dark blue, light blue, & black)?

[CaptainLarry]

I'm pretty sure the only place where I located the wires was at each overhead lamp.  But I can't say that is going to help you if the wires go in parallel to the other fixtures.  You'd have to trace it back to the timer and door relay.  I'm not sure.  I'm afraid I'm not much help.  I did manage to load some images finally,  I think.

[Sfsparkie]

I picked up the wires in the harness at the driver’s door step. Thanks for the tip on the switch. It looks stock. I kept the same lights (none added) and used the switch to control relays—all ON no matter the dome light switch position. Door controlled. Or All OFF no matter the dome light switch position. 

[2015]

2015 Nissan 3500 NV -  I can't get the overhead lights to come on when the door is opened or the fob is activated.  Manually I can get the lights to work.  Can anyone suggest what I should do?  Thanks.

[Local Apparent Friday]

On 2/12/2022 at 5:58 PM, 2015 said:

2015 Nissan 3500 NV -  I can't get the overhead lights to come on when the door is opened or the fob is activated.  Manually I can get the lights to work.  Can anyone suggest what I should do?  Thanks.

 

For anybody else reading this down the line, the lights have individual switches on them with three positions; Off, Door, or On.  If your lights are not illuminating when you open the doors, check first that they are set to "door," then check the bulbs and fuse if they still don't work.