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Backup Camera Override?

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Has anyone put in a override switch to show the backup camera when driving? This could be really helpful when my storage area is completely packed. (It's the stock navigation screen on 2013 passenger)

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Wouldn't a third party camera, like Pioneer or Panasonic, be better? Changing oem electronics may be more expensive in return for a partial solution. If the oem camera does anything well, I'd use it for that exclusively and get another night/larger/high definition camera in addition. When parked, the 3 other directions would also be nice for security as well.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7A-uwEib5Q

Edited by breeze

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to do this you need to run 12 volts from the switch to the backup wire on the radio, with a diode in line to make sure you dont back feed the backup lights.

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I just completed the back-up camera over ride in about 2 hours after weeks of research and planning.  Not as difficult as I expected.  Feeding hot 12v to pin 28 on the Nav system WITHOUT accessing the back of the radio.

 

Locate a diode - I used a 3 amp but it is likely overkill.  I did not test if the diode was even necessary.

Locate a rocker switch - I used a generic switch from O'Reilly Autoparts Dorman Conduct-Tite P/N 84943 which fits into the blank near the mirror control.

 

Remove the driver's side welt (?) - the rubber gasket around the door.  Loosen the driver's side front post grab bar trim piece to reveal the side curtain airbag.  One strong plastic rivet holds it on.  Set it to the side.  Two electrical clips are clipped to the post.  The white 32 pin is what you need.  This is M1 in the AV Shop Manual, page 105.

 

Disconnect the batt. :-)

 

Unplug the connector.  Push the bottom plug upward to remove it from the clip holding it to the post.  (This was hard.)  Pull the BOTTOM plug toward you and carefully cut away the electrical tape about 4".  Determine which ORANGE wire is in pin 28.  I'll let you figure that out.  It was next to a black wire then a violet came next to that.

 

Cut the wire and strip the ends.  Attach a diode to the wire coming out of the connector.  The gray stripe end is the "negative" end, it should be wired so it is away from the connector to prevent current flow "backward" across to the mating (R1) connector.  Connect the negative end of the diode to the other cut wire and a long splice that you will feed down into the dashboard.  After testing, you can put the panels back together.

 

Remove the small dash panel in front of the center console which has the 12 volt outlet in it.  Pry with soft tools from the right.  The left has two fingers that are released by pulling the panel to the right.  Tap into the hot green wire with a splice and feed left under the dash. This is only hot when key is on.

 

Loosen the dash panel under the steering wheel by removing two screws (fuse panel area and hood release area) then pry gently with soft tools.  Pull it down enough to access 2 Philips screws with a stubby driver and remove the switch bank holding the mirror control, traction control and the blank.  Pry out the blank.  Feed the two spliced wires through the hole and onto the new switch.  Plug in the switch.

 

Button it together after a test.

 

 

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Ok @CaptainLarry your a mad man and it worked great until 35mph. Could you point me in the direction to disable the 35mph auto off. I’m guessing it’s Either in the stereo or it’s in that orange cable down line somewhere. Any suggestions would be greatly helpful. ??

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@CaptainLarry I figured it out on the back of the radio there are 2 20 pin connectors. the bottom connector has a pink speed sensor cable (pin 18) that goes into the radio. I set it up to break the connection when the switch is flipped so it does not disable any more at a certain speed. 

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