Build update - Tim's Red 2012 NV 6cyc Hightop Seattle

[timsbeast]

Howdy,

 

I found a good resources to share for building out your NV Van.

 

Last week I drove to Hood River Oregon to meet with www.impact3d.com team. Nice people!

 

SOUND DEADENING: 
 

I learned that you do not need much sound deadening if you use the below 3M Thinsulate. I have a good deal from my local dealer on Dynamat so I just picked up four boxes and applied to the large open metal walls and areas where needed. Seems like a lot of weight and hassle looking at it now, wear gloves or it will cut up your hands..

 

I have seen other approaches such as spaying on Lizard Skin on that seems to be an easier method perhaps.

 

INSULATION:

 

I picked up 3M Thinsulate SM600L Acoustic Thermal Automotive Insulation for van and car on their site that is maintained on eBay for ease of management.  http://stores.ebay.com/impactproducts.  Approximate amounts needed to insulate the walls, ceiling, doors and cab area: 50 Linear SQ Feet

 

Recommend using 3M 90 Adhesive Spray to apply the white fiber side to the Van skin.

 

This is a very nice material to work with and cuts with good scissors. Apply spray glue to the van wall and to the white side of the Thinsulate, wait 1 min then apply. Fill in the cracks and make clips tied to string to pull strips through the cracks. break down a coat hanger to make a rod for pushing material up into cracks. 

 

For edges cut out about 1.5 inches of the white material so you have a flap of just the black material. For the ceiling ribs this makes a clean flush mounting method.

 

NEW CEILING FAN SCORE!!  

 

Hein at 3DImpact.com had new Low Profile fans in from Europe. We are working together to scan the Nissan NV Rib joins so he can create the first mounts for this new fan to fit Nissan NVs with a clean plastic piece that fills in the rib joints. 

 

Also you can see www.gnc-systems.com but go to Hein in Oregon to make your order since he is dealing with bulk and has product.

 

HEATER

A trip to Sandy Oregon and Rixen Enterprises.  They are an OEM for large motorhome brands with their full system that heats the van and water and has an engine cooling heat transfer system. The core is built from the 

http://rixens.com/products-services/sprinter-class-b-and-c-rv/ Cost is around $3800 + self installation. Quality and well designed, not cheap.

 

http://rixens.com/products-services/sprinter-class-b-and-c-rv/sprinter-and-class-b-c-rv-system-information/

 

Video - 

Edited December 19, 2017 by timsbeast

[radin2son]

We have a similar system, “flat plate” to heat the water in our NV. Unless you have hot water storage, “on demand” engine heated water cools quickly. “On demand” is optimistic at best and you really need to run the engine to keep it hot. The good news is little fuel is used at idle.

 

Sportsmobile West installed ours as an add-on when we purchased our NV. 5 years ago it cost $871. We also had them remove/exchange the 10 gallon water tank for a 20 gallon tank, $211. This included labor. They also install espar products, most often on MBs.

 

We only use the hot water/engine idle for our external shower; house batteries also charge. Getting the mix right is a challenge. It is hard to tell the difference between verbal noises when it is too hot or cold. Same for expletives...

 

We don’t have a heater for our NV. I can think of only 2 occasions in the mid-teens, when we turned on the engine for heat. We were up,making coffee and waiting for the sun.

 

I’ve said this before, but diy conversions rarely mention installing smoke and carbon monoxide monitors. We have both. If I were to use an espar, I definitely would install both. Another issue is “no idle” and no gray water in many areas. Some states will even prosecute...

 

Thanks for the resource info.

Edited December 20, 2017 by radin2son

[laharview]

Nice, keep the photos coming.

 

Mike