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8LFGRND

Ok, not getting rid of me now!

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Well it's been a busy few weeks with work and family and waiting for a shipping carrier but the van arrived Thursday from California and after reading various tire threads I took her right to Discount Tire for new shoes.

I have liked the NV since I first saw it and wasn't sure I would ever acquire one but the Silver Streak has arrived safely and we are fired up, the Sportsmobile configuration was the selling point as we are moving on from our 2003 Eurovan Westfalia (now for sale by the way).

 

2012 NV2500 HD Sportsmobile - 35k miles, aside from a few chips in her armor she seems brand new. Penthouse Top, roof rack, single solar panel and new 275/70/17 BFG AT KO2s.

 

Thanks Radin2son for answering many questions during my buying process.

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I was beginning to think you decided not to buy it.

 

You’re welcome regarding your questions. As you noticed, once I get started talking about our NV, it’s hard to get me to stop.

 

Welcome, officially. Nice to have another NV SMB owner on board.

 

We see a lot of Eurovan campers all around the west. Still lots of interest in them. On our last trip we met 2 couples who were tired of tent camping and Eurovan was on their list. There is a 1999 on conversiontrader.com going for $32k.

 

Neither couple were aware that NV SMBs existed.

Edited by radin2son

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Being in a college/outdoors city should make it easier to sell. Good luck with the sale.

 

We are trying to figure where to next in October if jury duty and doctor appointments don’t interfere. Otherwise, next trip in November.

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Do you have a copy of the SMB manual?

 

Also, did you see the original sales promotion? You can click on these to save image if you want...

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Edited by radin2son

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I seem to have a manual and it did come with the thumbnails above, but thank you.  The manual says NV2500 but almost everything specified "Ford/Chevy and Sprinter".  Figure the components are close to the same and that is all that was given to us. 

 

I have one big rubber button in the center of the row of buttons that includes the parking sensor and the cigarette lighter to the left and the USB/Aux jack all the way to the right.  I am quite certain this button was added by SMB but I couln't find what it was for in the manual.  Any ideas?  I don't dare push it until I am certain of what it is for.

 

Also, what pressure do you run your tires at?  I find it odd to have e rated tires aired all the way up in the rear to their max rating of 80lbs.  Also odd that the front specifies 50lbs. with the weight of the engine right over them.  Largest swing between posted front/rear air pressure specified by the manufacturer on any vehicle I have ever owned.

 

Thanks!

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You have the correct manual. Components are the same for every vehicle. SMB has an online store. Worth using it to get the right fit.

 

That button lets you use the house battery to jump start the van. (Not now, but...) Turn the ignition key as you normally do and push the button. We used this when the NV battery was completely dead; it would not hold a charge. Someone told me RVs generally have this.

 

The standard top NV 2500 HD weighs 5996 lbs. The conversion adds almost 1000 lbs, 6917 lbs.

Next add the weight of all the gear, people dogs, water etc. In our case this easily added 1000 lbs. GWRV for the 2500 is 9100 lbs so you have some room to add more gear... This info should be on the cabinet door next to the refrigerator.

 

We run 80 psi REAR* and 50 psi FRONT* With your tires, you could try lower psi but not to the point of activating TPMS.

 

*Corrected the error...

Edited by radin2son

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Rad, are you sure those PSI are not reversed?  The normal NV wants those pressures but the other way - 80 rear and 50 front.

 

I agree that it is odd to have such a wide range especially with almost no weight in the back (if you are talking an unloaded passenger or cargo).  My guess is Nissan wanted to be safe if you maxed out the payload of your van.  Most people will not set pressures based off the load they are carrying.  They will set and forget.  Lower pressures would yield a better contact patch and probably more even wear but you would need to air up if carrying heavy.  

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ASD,  I am assuming Rad has those numbers reversed, or from another thread on TPMS he was referencing how the dealer rotated his tires and didn't adjust the air pressure.  Either way, I will await his response.

 

Also being a motorcycle guy I am a bit anal when it comes to tire pressure.  I hate TPMS and have removed the monitors at each wheel from my other vehicle that had them.  I carry a portable ARB air compressor with high quality pressure gauges on a fill and quick deflate tool so am confident I am as good as the computer.  I am thinking of trying the new BFG AT KO2s I got at 55 front and 70 rear to see how that feels.

 

Thoughts?

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ASD Dad and 8LFGRND you are correct in both instances. I keep this pressure because we only use it for travel and don’t have to adjust it for each trip. I do check psi before and as we travel and adjust as needed.

 

What happens when you remove the sensors?

 

I found the sensors are not very accurate. This past trip, LR was 90 psi while driving and RR was 76 psi. My gauge showed both 84.5 psi.

Edited by radin2son

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When I removed the sensors on my Toyota the on board computer had nothing to report back any problem so all on dash indicators stopped showing anything.  :thumbsup:  

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I take it you didn’t have DT install new sensors. Awhile ago, I think there was a post on how to disable TPMS. Now we know how assuming the parts manufacturer is the same.

 

I haven’t noticed uneven tire wear. One of the criticisms of the Michelin tires is poor overall mileage. They do appear to be wearing faster that the Transforce tires. Time will tell.

 

Our 2017 VW uses a different system via abs. You set psi on the dash and it warns you when it is lower. Not sure how.

Edited by radin2son

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8LFGRND, Did they replace the house batteries in your NV? If not, they generally last 3 to 7 years. Interstate Batteries and Batteries Plus sell them. At 56 lbs each, they are way too heavy for me to deal with.

 

We are also going to replace the Fluorescent lights and the side reading light with LEDs.

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Sorry Rad, not sure how I missed your questions.

 

I am unsure if they replaced the house batteries, the main one had some corrosion I cleaned up.  When you say "house" it is my understanding we have only 2 batteries, the regular battery everyone has and then the one they tucked behind it done by Sportsmobile, assuming that is the one true "house" you mean.  If not, please teach me a little on this topic.

 

Also, once you do the research for the LED replacements I would appreciate you sharing the info as I would like to do the same.  SIde reading light is that little lamp, correct?  Then the fluorescents would be the double light by the rear doors as well as the two in the pop-top, and perhaps the one by the sunglass holder up front, correct?

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No problem.

 

SMBs have the NV 12V battery in the engine bay and should have 2 AGM “house” 12V batteries in a tray mounted to the frame under the sliding door. If you have 2 batteries in the engine bay that isn’t stock. Take a photo of what you have and measure the battery. Apparently, there are 2 versions with different dimensions. Ours has the larger of the 2.

 

Look for the battery tray under the van. There should be 2 sealed batteries. I replaced these.

 

If you have a different setup, it may be due to how the solar is set up. SMB didn’t pre-wire NVs for solar.

 

I replaced the fluorescents with LED lights, using the same fixtures. I’ll have to get the manufacturer for you. My invoice doesn’t have this. The light over the rear door already is LED. Yes, regarding the reading light. You can simply substitute a LED bulb.

 

No reason to do anything with the NV map/dome lights. The light added by SMB already is LED as are the lights over the sink, counter.

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Got it, I will look into my battery setup and get back to you.

 

It looks like there is an additional one under the hood so we shall see.

 

I will have to check on the house batteries under the door, I had no idea they were there.  My battery reading using the small SMB reader the van came with that you plug in just below the kitchen sink reads what the SMB video says it should (13v if I recall) so perhaps the batteries are ok, or at least the solar is doing its job to trickle charge them.  I also have a full time reading on the solar guage that was installed so two of the same readings can't be a bad thing.  Hopefully they replaced the batteries at the time of the solar panel install as I don't feel like dropping $400-500 bucks on a set of batteries right now.

 

I am traveling for a few days starting tomorrow afternoon but will get back to you asap with some details.  Thanks again RAD - Justin

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Take your time.

 

If you have 2 sealed batteries attached to the frame, they may still hold a charge after 6 years. They may not like cold weather, however. You will find out soon enough, but if you aren’t camping you can wait.

 

The reading light has a halogen bulb in it. Gave off way to much heat so we didn’t use it. LED is so much better.

 

I doubt they put in 2 new AGM batteries when they added solar. It is possible they died on their own (3-5 year lifespan) or they bypassed them when they added a deep cycle battery in the engine bay. 2 benefits: cheaper battery and easy to install. If you are satisfied with this, leave it alone.

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Brand name of LED lights: Ming’s Mark.

18” 500 lumen, cost $47.50

200 lumen for reading lamp, cost $18.99

 

You can find these online.

 

If you want a dimmer switch, it is easier and cheaper to replace the fixture.

Edited by radin2son

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