Sliding door interference solved for wider tires.

[Phomollient]

Im on my second NV2500.  The latest one is the Roadtrek N6 Acrive.

 

I have run 275/70/18’s (33.4x11) on Method wheels with no rubbing on the door or elsewhere but it was close with the sliding door—really close.

 

I decided I wanted more ground clearance so I lifted it 2” in the front and 1” in the rear using a spacer kit with rear blocks.  I’ve seen NVs with 6” lifts with 35’s but that’s too tall (lift-wise) for my taste and unnecessary to run 35s.  The two inch lift will accomplish that without huge gaps in the wheel well.  As far as I can tell the only reason for a 6” lift is so that the sliding door will clear an oversized tire. I’m installing 34x11.5s soon but anticipated the door would be a problem.

 

Some have shimmed the hinge on the sliding door but the studs are too short for meaningful space.

 

After days of experimentation I have a way to run 33x11s and have 3/4” clearance between the tire and sliding door.  Door opens all the way, locks and closes as per stock.

 

I used a 1/4” piece of plate aluminum, a used door hinge off EBay (to experiment on), three .047” round, threaded sleeves (1.2” long” with M8 1.25 threads, three large nuts and three 3/16” washers with 1/2 holes.

 

1/4” is the Max the door can be shimmed.  I tried 3/8” and the door would not close right.

 

Tools:  sawsall, vice, drill press or drill, 31/64 bit, 15/32 bit, 1/2 bit, 11/16” bit, 4” hand grinder with an ALUMINUM-only flap wheel,  tig welder or perhaps brazing rod and torch, hammer, socket and a 1” M8 1.25 bolt.

 

Step One:

Drill out the nut of your choice (use a larger nut) with the 15/32 bit.

 

Step Two:

 

Thread the M8 bolt into the threaded sleeve (to keep threads from deforming).   Tap the  head of the M8 bolt (threaded into the sleeve) and press the sleeve into the nut you drilled out in previous step.   Using an appropriate size socket, place socket on to the nut and tap the socket driving the nut down on the sleeve until there is only 1/2” protruding on one side.  This will be the side that goes into your new modified hinge.
 

Step Three:

 

Tig weld the nut to the sleeve on the side OPPOSITE the 1/2” .  I expect it could be successfully brazed as well.

 

Step Four:

 

Unbolt the hinge from the door when the door is locked open all the way.  The other hinges will take the weight of the door.  Remove the hinge from the slide rail.

 

Step Five:

 

Trace the outline of the hinge mounting surface on to the 1/4” aluminum plate.  Clamp the aluminum plate in a vice and using a sawsall and drill rough cut the part.  Using a 4“ hand grinder with an aluminum flap wheel sand the part until it closely matches the outline of the hinge mounting surface.  When you are satisfied with the shape of your aluminum spacer carefully trace the hinge’s mounting holes on to the spacer.  Be as precise as possible.  Center punch the holes and drill all three to 1/2” and the center  ONLY to 11/16”.

 

Step Six:

 

Drill all three of your hinge mounting holes to 31/64.  This ensures proper alignment with the door studs as the bolt you created in Steps One, Two and Three have an O.D. that fits snugly with little play. Drill the middle (square hole) to 11/16.   This is the only hole that is this size.

 

Step Seven:

 

Reinstall the hinge with your spacer first, then hinge.  Place the 3/16 thick washers over your fabricated bolts and place bolts into the hinge and through your spacer’s bored holes.  Tighten.

 

 

 

 

 

[Glidedon]

Nice work !

[Phomollient]

Thanks!

[Bradavis2002]

Hey man! This looks awesome and like such a logical solution. I’ll be honest, I’m not confident in my abilities to properly carry out the instructions though (plus I can’t weld). Any chance you would be willing to make me one of these? I do believe I could handle installation, just not fabrication. I would, of course, make it worth your time! Just let me know!