Nissan Nv3500 can’t take Arizona heat

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

Just moved from Maine to Az and the 2018 nv3500 SL will shut off at red lights and is hard to restart afterwards. You have to mash the gas and feather it once you get it running. I have numerous videos of it. Big POS has 58k on it. Had a new motor put in at 37 cause it had a #7 cylinder knock. Of course the dealership can not duplicate. Any ideas.

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

[Local Apparent Friday]

Is this uniquely related to AZ, as in did you own it and it worked fine for the time that you were in Maine (besides the cyl7 issue?)

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

It started hard starting in Texas after fueling up and has gotten more and more prevalent in the month we have been here.

[Local Apparent Friday]

Let me ruminate on this for a bit...I had a similar issue after swapping my engine and I remember it not making sense since there is no throttle cable or accelerator pump.  Give me a bit to think through and read back through my swap thread, it's been a couple weeks.

[Local Apparent Friday]

So one thought is that the fuel filter might be clogged, specifically since you mentioned fueling.  Do you know if the dealership put a pressure gauge on the line?  I would also begin by checking the induction system...making sure all the hoses are connected and clamped, and that the MAF is clean and properly connected, what is the condition of the air filter, etc.  That wasn't my issue, but I'm still racking my brain and those are some ideas to get you started.  I am also assuming that there were never and DTCs, stored or pending?  Thanks,

 

-laf

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

I got check engine light with lean bank codes. Misfire codes. Code that says no info found. It went to the dealer 2 times in the last week and they aren’t very helpful. Said they can’t duplicate. It only happens when it’s 93 and above so I’m waiting on another hot day to run it in. I limped it last week at 4:30 and they said sorry we can’t check it til tomorrow.

Edited July 15, 2022 by BigBlackPieceOfJunk

[Local Apparent Friday]

Do you have your own code reader that will let you read active engine parameters?  Was it bank specific, IE 1/3/5/7 or 2/4/6/8?

Edited July 15, 2022 by Local Apparent Friday

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

I have the generic hobo freight code reader. Says right bank now.

Edited July 15, 2022 by BigBlackPieceOfJunk

[Local Apparent Friday]

Ah k.  A couple things, first I use and recommend OBDLink products that lay functionally between harbor freight and full diagnostics like SOLUS.  I personally have the LX that I scored on ebay for $34.  Anyway, that aside, here are my thoughts:

 

You mentioned specifically it starting after you fueled, we are not immune to bad gas in this day and age of shortages, so I would have the dealership check fuel pressure the next time your in.  In the meantime, and assuming you are handy,

 

1. Disconnect the battery leads and ground out the caps for 30 mins.  That video is not NV specific but the information is relevant.

 

2. Relearn the TB. This is likely not to work if you are still throwing codes when you fire it up to warm it up.

 

3. In my specific case, I was able to determine that it was just my right bank that was throwing lean codes...I could watch the misfires count up on the OBDLink up until it broke the 6k threshhold and thew a code.  Ultimately, it was the VVT solenoid that was jammed, possibly from some debris that had gotten stuck in the plunger during my parts swap.  Using a test bench and some brakleen, I was able to clear the plunger and it solved my issue.  If you need details on how to do this, LMK.  You will need a 10mm socket and a test bench, which can be as simple as a couple jumper wires and a battery.

 

I hope that helps, post back and let's see if we can get you through this.

 

-laf

Edited July 15, 2022 by Local Apparent Friday

[Local Apparent Friday]

I am inclined to lean towards the VVT solenoid...I had the same generic "random misfire" code with no specific cylinder listed.  I'd probably start there if you can manage.

 

Edit: Just saw you edited it to say that it is showing right bank only.  That's the same as mine, and that it is bank specific eliminates the possibility of it being induction or fuel related.  Check your VVT solenoid, lmk if you need to know how.  You're describing exactly what happened to me.

Edited July 15, 2022 by Local Apparent Friday

[radin2son]

It’s not heat related in the sense that NVs aren’t built to handle AZ heat. Your temp gauge was where it should be. Unless you are in Flagstaff or Sierra Vista, you won’t have to wait long for 93* days. 

 

I agree with laf, you need to get the  codes. An auto parts store should be able to pull up codes for you in the interim. Not sure if they can bring up history. Wouldn’t think this is a problem. 

 

I don’t know the current status of commercial vs Nissan dealerships. If NVs still have to go to commercial dealerships, then you have to go to Phoenix or Tucson.

 

Best bet is to get the service manager involved. Start with a complaint about service. Even at 4:30, something could have been done. This is weak, but it gets you to the service manager or prepares you for another dealer if you are in Phoenix. Then there is the area rep. (Read a post somewhere that commercial customer service may no longer exist.)

 

The good news, is you have warranty for your “cargo or passenger...”

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

Just pulled the codes that are on it now. 

[Local Apparent Friday]

Yah so start by finding the leak.  Fix that and then retest, proceed.  https://www.liveabout.com/find-and-fix-evaporative-emissions-leak-4163502

 

 

Edited July 15, 2022 by Local Apparent Friday

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

It also throws a loose gas cap warning every once and while but it’s been replaced by the dealer and cleaned multiple times.

[Local Apparent Friday]

We're bouncing around all over the place rn.  We started with Lean bank and misfire codes, but now it's EVAP leak and Rich codes.  Your lean/misfire problem I have experience with.  I have not had EVAP troubles with mine, as I knock on my wooden desk.  Do you have vacuum pumps and the requisite knowledge to work through this?

[Local Apparent Friday]

How to test EVAP purge valve

VK56DE specific location/information on replacement

[BigBlackPieceOfJunk]

Tell me about it. These codes are different from the codes it threw last week. Blows my mind. It’s a 2018 with 58k and it can’t run right for more than a month at a time. When the motor went last time it was gone for 5 months. I’m about done. Only thing is it’s paid for. 

[Local Apparent Friday]

Hopefully something in what i've posted is of use to you.  For the EVAP codes, I would start by testing the purge valve.  For the lean/misfires, check your right bank VVT control solenoid.  LMK if you need details on how to do that.  Hopefully we can get this resolved.  Thanks for joining us!

[radin2son]

In May, 2015 check engine light came on. Didn’t have obd reader and engine continued to run fine. We were near Charlotte, NC and took it to Scott Clark Nissan. No appointment but knew commercial sales manager through this forum. They pulled up codes 

PO441, purge flow

PO455, Gross Leak (evap)

 

Basically, “sensor (PO455) in charcoal canister keeps coming out.” Common problem in Titans. Choice was new canister (no warranty left) or glue the sensor back in. Common fix and no problems since. 

 

Take away from this prior to fix was driveable with check engine light on. I now have an obd reader.

 

Nissan covered repair as evap was on going reported issue. Earlier gas cap replacement did nothing as it wasn’t a problem. 

 

As an aside, if you drive your NV on dusty, dirt roads, it will throw the code PO448, EVAP system vent control circuit short. (Bamps posted a fix.) I just ignore it as it is self healing when you get back on pavement and go through a cycle of starts. 

[Local Apparent Friday]

So did this go anywhere?  You get her sorted?