My 2019 NV3500 Looses Power and Will Not Start

[CORVUS]

Hello,

I’ve a 2019 NV3500 Passenger. It has about 45,000 miles. I really love this van.

 

I camp a lot with it. Sometimes two weeks at a time and work. I do off line computer stuff. Because of my battery usage I installed an additional battery in the engine compartment and a more powerful alternator to keep them both fully charged. Also, the NV power inverter, to make AC for my computers, monitors, interior lights, and a few other appliances, run off the second battery now. I also had installed an after-market remote start and intrusion alarm system. My point is I have made electrical modifications and additions. (I have removed the after-market system. It kept going off randomly and seemed perhaps tied to my problems with the NV.)

 

My NV problem is, every now and then, like hundreds or thousands of miles apart, I notice the NV feels like it’s loosing power. Slow to take off from stop, slow to accelerate on the highway. The check engine light comes on as well. Eventually the NV will not start. There is no power anywhere! 100% dead. Like a totally dead battery.

By sheer panic and desperation of being stranded 10 miles out on a forest service road, I discovered that if I disconnect the primary battery by removing the ground cable, wait a few minutes, hook it back up. The NV starts and feels like 110% power. All systems are Go.

 

I have a little diagnostic tool that plugs into the OBD2 port and reads codes. Its called a BlueDriver. There is a short explanation for each code and what it relates to. The common problem codes generated due to the failure or prior to the failure are O2 sensor slow to respond, catalytic system below efficiency, ECM/PCM, CAN communication circuits, control module performance, stop lamp, intake valve control solenoid circuit range, coolant pump A slow response, rich to lean bank 1.

 

Phew! Some list...

 

Not every code has showed each time I check the BlueDriver. After the battery disconnect and reconnect the check engine light stays on and after a few miles will go out on its own. Some codes disappear, a few seems to stick around. The most common codes are Control Module Performance, O2 sensor, and CAN communication circuit. The BlueDriver says the CAN communication circuit is a Very Common failure for the NV.

 

It’s 500 miles since I noticed the apparent loss of starting and driving power and so I disconnected the battery and removed the alarm. Deleted/Reset all the trouble codes.

 

It seems to me the problems are with the CAN communication, one of the modules, or the wiring. I have found references to the the CAN and Control Module code online. It seems the place for me to start is making sure every wire harness connection is good and solid. Perhaps I replace the O2 sensor just to rule that out. I also have removed the after-market system. It kept going off randomly and seemed maybe tied to my problems with the NV. Now I am in a wait and see mode. I intend to keep an eye out by checking the codes every hundred or so miles.

 

Here’s a couple of links for the U1000 CAN communication code.

https://autochimps.com/u1000-code/
https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/nissan-u1000/

 

Here’s some for the Control Module performance code.

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0607_nissan.html
https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0607-code-control-module-performance/

 

Does anyone have experience with such an issue? I’d appreciate any comments or information you may have to help solve my problem.

Thanks everyone.

 

 

[crusty]

What are you using to isolate the 2nd battery from the starting battery?

If you have a 2nd battery, and just wired it in addition to the first, you really only have one battery.  It may be in 2 places, but the effective result is if you only have one.

 

Get everything you added off the original electrical system and onto its own battery.  Use a clean way to charge that second battery (DC-DC charger is pretty common). 

 

That leaves you the aftermarket high output alternator.  I am not a big fan, too many times I have found the aftermarket stuff a bit sloppy on tolerances, like voltage regulator settings.

[CORVUS]

Thanks for the reply. Greatly appreciated.

I originally installed a Renogy 12V 20A DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger. Currently, to isolate the batteries I have a Stinger SGP32 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator and Relay. A push button links the two in parallel in case the stock battery discharged. At some point in time, after the alarm install I began to notice issues with the alarm going off without cause. Then later NV performance and not starting. It seemed the alarm may have been causing the problem with the van. Maybe...

The alarm was installed locally. I went back there for support. The fellow at the local auto stereo store said they use a Stinger and never had a problem. So, I switched to that in order to see if somehow that DC-DC charger was a culprit.

After that I still had issues with the alarm and NV performance at times. I just never switched back to the Renogy DC-DC charger. It sits in my shop. I do think it is the better way to go and will make the change back to it.

Regarding the alternator. I was experiencing NV issues prior to the new heavy duty alternator install. About 7K miles prior to the new alternator, I started having alarm and NV performance issues. I had the alternator checked as part of my troubleshooting. The tests told me the stock alternator had a failing diode. I figured since I was running more electric circuits and an additional battery I’d put in a more robust alternator. All charging parameters checked good in after installation tests. I will have the voltage regulation checked. The new alternator was purchased from https://www.qualitypowerauto.com . 250 amps. Specified for 2019 NV3500. It was installed locally and tested afterwards by the local shop.

Regarding the secondary circuit isolation. I’m sure all my new circuits are off the fuse block for the second battery. They take care of an additional inverter, audio power amp, and lights when the vehicle is turned off, and a relay switch to monitor the stock battery and the secondary voltages. I made some of new circuits, the stereo auto store some others for audio power amps. But I will double check all circuits. Might as well make up a schematic too for my reference or a future owner.

I’ve looked over the Nissan Titan truck forums (same engine). There are isssues regarding the U1000 and CAN communication codes. Suggestions include grounding, checking connectors, and resetting the control modules. I guess, resetting is what I have done to “fix” the problem of no starting. But its not a permanent solution. Although some people say disconnect up t0 24 hours to reset the learning modes. I used 15 minutes. Maybe increase the times.

Since there are problems with the Titans with the U1000 code the issue may be grounds or components like the ECU. Seems those with issues like mine have failing ECU’s. And, like mine, when powering off these components by disconnecting the battery, everything works again – for a while.

My Plan:
1. Put DC-DC charger back in place.

2. Recheck new Alternator for voltage regulation and output.

3. Put all electrical systems back to stock. I’ll loose some camping functionality but I need to find the problem.

4. I keep seeing O2 sensors in the scans. Maybe as a shotgunning approach I just replace those.

5. Once all circuit are back to stock and I see codes in the memory, I’ll take the NV to the dealer. Maybe the ECU is failing. Maybe there is a faulty connection or wire. My NV is still under warranty.

Thanks again for your comments.

 

Edited October 25, 2023 by CORVUS

[CORVUS]

I removed every item that was on the CAN bus; after-market intrusion alarm, remote start, Blue Driver, anther toy that monitored the engine and transmission performances. I also removed a disconnect switch from the main battery, and cleaned the terminals.

No problems for 2,500 miles. No Blue Driver error codes. Smooth running engine.

 

I had the aftermarket alarm system (   Clifford high end alarm   ) reinstalled and activated two days ago. The first day after installation, the alarm goes off for no reason when I got home and then again this morning at 0530.
My poor neighbors....

 

To see if there were error codes again, I plugged in the Blue Driver. There is a CAN bus communication error showing up.  Ha, just like old times! I also thought/felt I noticed a drag feeling of the engine. Poor performance, like subtle misfires dragging the performance down.

 

I've spent the last two years dealing with false alarms and engine not starting and feeling poor performance.

I called the alarm installer in town at 10 this morning. The alarm comes out this coming Monday. Alarm put in Valet mode. Everything now points to the aftermarket alarm messing up the bus. I do not know the bandwidth and capability of the CAN bus. I know the alarm is on the bus. Now the bus shows errors. Maybe the bus is not robust enough to handle what the alarm talks? Any opinions?

 

I keep a lot of valuable things in my van at times. I want the little intrusion security an alarm system offers.

Anyone have experience with a good functioning after market alarm/remote start system for an NV-3500 passenger van?