Parasitic load draining battery

[Swingjunkie]

Hello NV Owners,

 

I started having problems this week, with a dead battery.  Assumed something was left on in the van while at a jobsite.  Jump started and off to the next site.  Same issue.  Another jump start.  Down the road to the next project.  Stopped at Advanced Auto Parts after 40 minute drive.  Battery checks good, charging system checks good.  Drive and charge another 40 minutes and park at the hotel for the night.  Next AM battery dead.

 

At this point I assume I have some parasitic load pulling the battery down when the truck is off. I put an amp probe on the negative battery cable and it shows with everything off and all doors closed there is a 0.5 Amp draw on the battery.

 

I set up my amp meter, and went to the interior and pulled each fuse, 1 by 1.  No drop in battery current, still 0.5 amps.  Went under the hood and pulled all fuses in the fuse box, same result.  

 

NOTE: there are a number of fuses in this panel which cannot be removed without unplugging the wiring harness(s) to get to the fuse.  

 

Anyway, I am no closer to tracing this down.  

 

Checking to see if any other owners have had this problem. 

[RICK]

.5 amps/ 6 watts is nothing for a good battery. How old is the battery?

 

Could be a bad alternator with a bad set of diodes. That will cause a drain too.

 

Not sure what the normal drain should be, but the battery sounds like it's weak. 12 amp hours over 24 hours should still start with a good battery.

 

Rick.

[Swingjunkie]

The battery is original OEM 2012 Nissan.  So it is approximately 4 years old.  As I noted in my original post I had the battery and charging system tested at Advanced Auto Parts while on the road.  Their conclusion was that both the battery and the charging system checked out OK.  My understanding is that the key "off" load on the vehicle should be less than 0.05A (50 milliamps), that's why I assume there is some parasitic load drawing down the battery.  Am I wrong about this?

 

The battery test showed the following

Voltage 12.83V

Measured  635 CCA

Rated        700 CCA

Temperature 95 degrees F

[RICK]

The 12.83 volts I assume is the voltage after the load bank test.

 

I also assume you only had a 3 year warranty on the 2012 NV.

 

For kicks, try disconnecting the alternator wire harness if its easily accomplished.

 

Are there any fuseable links that would help to isolate a general area thats easily accessible?

 

Yours doesn't have a power inverter that might not be shutting off?

 

Rick.

[Chris_CommercialManager]

Sure sounds like a battery.  Don't think you'd be running around with a bad alternator and jump.  

 

I personally have never had a client come in with a mysterious draw.  Please update this thread with whatever you find, if it is a draw it may be helpful to someone else down the line.

[axulsuv]

1; Don't mess with the IPDM  (intelligent power distribution module ) / Fuse block under the hood  .

2; It will take anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes for all the modules in your van to go to sleep , every time you disconnect/reconnect power, the capacitors in all units start to dump and then recharge . The IPDM helps with this .

3: your battery has lived out it's useful service life ...

4; Don't trust electronic bat./charge system testers , NOTHING beats a good old snap-on VAT-40 analog/carbon pile tester. A good surface charge will fool most electronic testers ...

  Glenn 

[radin2son]

Thanks for the info. My NV battery is in the same age range. So far so good, but but batteries in AZ last 3 years at most. My VW mechanic puts in Interstate batteries which have been problem free for each 3 year period.

 

Never had to replace a HD battery. Any issues finding them?