Travels in a NV SMB

[radin2son]

Trip of extremes. High temp 108, low 34. High winds. Highest elevation 11,361* (Slumgullion pass).  
 

Trip started with a 60 mile detour to avoid a fire. Ended up at Jack’s Canyon, 30 miles south of Winslow 

AZ. 97* and rocked all night by wind gust. Blowing dust so interior was a dust bowl. Took 18 minutes to drive 1.7 miles on a very rocky road. Didn’t need 4x4 but more clearance would have been reassuring. 
 

Woods Lake west of Telluride was as beautiful as ever. Marmots and bear in the area, but never saw them. High winds again, but site 13 is protected by aspens. 
 

Utah was too hot so we change itinerary and took CO 149 south to Lake City and Creede. Rio Grande head waters. Camped at N Clear Creek. OK if you fish or ranch. A small herd of cattle showed up late evening and very early in the morning. The rest of the cattle were on the other side of the cattle guard. 
 

At South Fork, we headed east to Alamosa and south to Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument, north of Taos, NM. Hot, windy (couldn’t attach screens) and man-eating gnats. 

At this point, we just wanted to avoid 100* temps going south. In Albuquerque, we took I-40 to El Malpais National Monument, south of Grants NM. Small BLM campground, Joe Skeen. Hot, full sun and of course gnats. There is dispersed camping farther west. Missed the turn off the next day. 
 

Headed home. No way to beat the heat.
 

We ended up refilling the 20 gallon tank and buying 5 gallons of drinking water. 
 

Drove on lots of dirt roads and the check engine (P0448) never came on. Don’t know why given past history. Recent 90k service? 
 

 

[radin2son]

Saw one white high top camper going east on I-40 toward Albuquerque NM. Anyone here?  
 

At Woods Lake (not the pond above), locals were saying there has never been this much snow in the mountains in late June. Same for being much colder. 
 

Nevertheless, Mosquitoes were huge and flies annoying. We always set up our screen room here. Set up portable table, Coleman stove and chairs inside and good to go…

 

Despite the web site’s bear warning and mandatory bear box use for tents and soft sided campers, there were no bear boxes. All the trash bins, however,  were sealed and all trash had to go in the big bins at the pay station. 
 

 

[Local Apparent Friday]

Killer pics!  All our adventures since the beginning of the year have been to race tracks.  Your view is much better.

[radin2son]

Thanks. It seems we are always hugging trees or at least their shade. 

[OpenRoad]

Thanks for sharing pics of your recent trip.  Some beautiful places.  Too bad the heat put you off.  We recently returned from a 3 week trip through Oregon, Idaho, Utah, Wyoming and were lucky I guess to not have the heat problem.  Perhaps because we were further North.  What resources do you use for finding camping sites?  We most enjoy free dispersed camping.

[radin2son]

The main reason for this thread was to provide info and photos.
 

Re camping resources, which you most likely use. Quick internet check and download (not maps) what is available from forest service and BLM. Both show fee and free campgrounds and dispersed. Forget National Parks and most monuments. Too crowded and many, if not most, require reservations. We have other apps but no longer use them. 
 

Since my wife loves paper maps, we rely on her State “topographic recreation maps,” in this case Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. We had the Utah map with us as well. National Geographic has good paper maps. Recommend the map of the “Four Corners Trail of the Ancients” for anyone planning a trip to the southwest. 
 

 

 

 

[Local Apparent Friday]

Not to jack the thread, but we almost exclusively use a website called freecampsites.net.  As @radin2son said, the forestry department offices will sell you enough maps to fill your NV, or you can download them online for free for most fed AND state parks.  For that, we use the Avenza Maps app recommended by the forestry department.  FreeRoam and Campendium are other options, although we don't use those much.  Most of our stays are abandoned CCC camps, fire roads, public land, etc.

 

- laf

[radin2son]

Whatever works is fine. We just assume we will be in no service areas and bring along state recreation maps for areas we may end up in. 
 

I wasn’t particularly clear about the NG maps. They are waterproof, tear resistant “Trails Illustrated Topographic Maps” They show roads and towns, and also show trails, trail heads, what is permitted on the trails, campgrounds, elevation and peaks. 
 

CO has 51 maps and like any topo map, there is an illustrated grid to find the map you need. 

[radin2son]

Emission check due, so checked obd scan and P0448 was there after all. Dusty roads prevail! Didn’t trip the check engine light so not sure if this would have been enough to fail emissions. Probably not, but cleared it and took a 50 mile drive to clear the 4 tests not completed. Didn’t know a “drive time” of 20 to 100 miles, depending on vehicle, is needed to restore the system. 

Edited September 5, 2023 by radin2son

[radin2son]

Nav showed 1000 miles to Port Orford, OR via I-10 & I-5. Once we got to Joshua Tree National Park, we exited I-10 and didn’t see I-5 until Ashford, OR. Total trip was 3000 miles, almost all asphalt. 16.1 mpg. Price of gas varied between $4.50+ and $5.80+. Avoided $6.00+. 

 

Over the course of 11 years and 96k, we had camped at all these sites previously. Overnights except for Humbug Mountain State Park 7 miles south of Port Orford, where we stayed 7 nights. Needed an ocean fix.

 

Only negative was fire east of Port Orford and north of campground. Under 4000 acres when we arrived and over 22000 when we left. Lots of smoke, falling ash and a running, “cautionary” be ready to evacuate 3 nights before we left. Had to pack up everything a live out of the van. 

Photos

Joshua Tree NP

Sonora Bridge in the Sierras (28*)

Lava Beds NM (Fire swept through the area 2-3 years ago. Hot and little shade.)

Humbug Mountain SP (Mandatory reservation.)

Hole in the Wall/Mojave Desert. (Just reopened after storm damage. Sunrise breakfast to clean out fridge etc before heading home.)

 

For anyone itching to go to Death Valley, it is closed due to flooding. 

Supposed to reopen mid-October. 

 

Edited October 1, 2023 by radin2son

[radin2son]

Why Humbug Mountain SP? Beach is dog friendly. Hike 3 miles up to 1700+ summit of Humbug Mountain from the campground.  Walk the 3 mile out and back abandoned Route 101 that also starts from the campground. 
 

5 photos down, looking at new 101 and base of Humbug Mountain through smoke and fog. Single lane bridge original. Railing new. 

[radin2son]

Some trips go from bad to worse and you head back home. 
 

Weather looked great for a repeat trip to Grand Canyon NP. Tried reserving 4 nights but recreation.gov wasn’t able to process payments. Few days later I was able to reserve 2 nights and about a week ago was able to add 2 more nights at the same site. Weather looked great, lows in the 30s and highs close to 60. Then there was a National Park alert, “Danger.” Lows around 13-14* and high winds. We have the gear so trip was on, but I was worried. Water in interior pipes would freeze but water in containers would be fine. Who would get up first to make coffee?

 

About 50 miles into the trip, the check engine light came on. The usual code P0048. Cleared it and it didn’t come back on. Just north of Phoenix, the tire pressure warning light came on. Tire blew on I-17 at 75 mph in the middle lane. Except for a lot of smoke and a little wobble, able to get to the breakdown lane. 

After road side service got the tire off, there was a huge hole in the tread. Getting the spare down was a major problem. The tire wouldn’t drop down because the excess chain was jammed into a bolt hole. It was hard to get bolt cutters into the space. 3 hours later, we turned back for home. 
 

Cancelled reservation with recreation.gov. $10 cancellation fee. Get $8 refund from the $36 for 4 nights. Mainly wanted to free up site for someone just as crazy…
 

The only reason I am posting this is that there was no way I could have changed this tire with the tools that come with the van. 

 

 

Edited December 11, 2023 by radin2son

[OpenRoad]

Sorry to read about the bad luck on your latest trip.  Good thing it was a rear tire that failed at interstate speeds, a front tire may have been more problematic to keep control.  Thanks for posting.

[radin2son]

I think it helped that the tread remained intact. At least it saved the mudflap. 
 

New tire had to be special ordered. No one keeps this size in inventory. Installed yesterday. 
 

Considered moving unused spare, same tire as rest, to rim in photo, but sidewall showed significant “rub” wear from being mounted under van. Only good for a spare. 
 

Low was 14* at the Grand Canyon. High 30s at home. Maybe try again in January or February. 

[radin2son]

Quick 2 night trip to Chiricahua National Monument. Plan on making a reservation as campground is full most of the time and there is fenced ranch property all around, so no nearby dispersed camping. You can take Pinery Canyon Rd (dirt and closed in winter) to USFS campgrounds. Haven’t been up this road in a long while, so it may mean not maintained.
 

Cold with overnight rain and snow, more like frozen rain. Ground was warm enough to melt the snow at 5400’. Park Service plowed the road to Massai Point at 6870’. Dogs not allowed on the trails, except for the trail from the campground to Far Away Ranch and Bonita Creek. 4 miles total. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5 by radin2son

[OpenRoad]

That is a beautiful area.  I really like this area of Arizona including the east side of the Chiricahua around Portal and west across the valley to Cochise Stronghold.  It has been a couple of years since we were there. Wasn't able to stay at the National Monument campground last time so did explore the Pinery Canyon Rd and dispersed camped there.  At that time, was very washboard so made for slow going in the van.

Thanks for sharing.  As always, nice pictures.

[radin2son]

There has been some talk about making this a National Park. Did this years ago with Sahuaro National (Monument) Park. Ranger at the time pointed out this didn’t mean a bigger budget.
 

Read today that USFS is opening a new campground at Rucker Canyon south not too far away toward Elfrida. There used to be a lake until a huge forest fire and flash floods eradicated the lake. Should be open this spring. 
 

 

[radin2son]

50th NV trip. Took longer than we planned to get it done. 
 

Loop trip to SW New Mexico. Planned to start out in Silver City and end in Las Cruces before heading home. Weather forecast flipped this. 
 

Started out at Aguirre Springs campground (BLM) on the east side of Organ Mountains National Monument. Beautiful area and views. 
 

Next up was Valley of Fires camp-ground (BLM) with stops at White Sands National Park and Three Rivers Petroglyph Site. (Skip this if you have seen other rock art. Not well maintained by BLM.) Valley of Fires is a lava flow. (OK to use tents only area if not towing.) 

 

Last destination was Datil Wells campground (BLM). Another beautiful area with views. Cold at 7000’. Snow as well. 
 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10 by radin2son

[radin2son]

Sometimes you just have to wait until you download photos to a lap top…
 

BLM Three Rivers Petroglyph site. This may be 1of 2 campgrounds. Visitor center closed and camp host (?) not available. The second campground is 10+ miles closer to the mountains, but website listed it as closed due damage from past forest fire. No indication it was closed on sign going in. 
 

BLM Valley of Fires campground and lava flow. Sites are on a ridge overlooking the lava flow and paved foot trail (1 mi). Tent sites are off the ridge, up against the lava flow.

Edited March 19 by radin2son

[radin2son]

White Sands National Park seems to have become a must see NP.  Be sure to check if US 70 and park are closed due to missile testing. Usually just a couple of hours. Closures are posted well in advance on park website. 
 

Roads are plowed due to drifting gypsum. In photo below, water table is inches below the “road” surface. Gypsum dunes are much finer and cooler than sand dunes, so the ambient was much cooler than outside the park. 
 

Bring something flat to ride down the dunes. In the past you could rent a board at the visitor center. 
 

 

[radin2son]

Stopped posts after 50th trip mostly because recent trips have covered the same ground. 
 

Just bought 2 RV deep cycle AGM batteries as fridge ran for about 36 hours before running batteries down.  Should get at least 3-4 days. 
 

Removing/replacing batteries is best left to a shop with a lift. The batteries are in a tray welded to the frame. 4 bolts hold tray in place. Unused plug must be for solar. Tray only holds 2 batteries. 

Edited October 1 by radin2son

[radin2son]

What a difference new “house” batteries make. No worries about charging during a 4 day stay on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. 
 

East entrance off US 89 (at Cameron on the Navajo Nation) lets you avoid long delays at the south entrance. Adds 50 miles but the drive is worth it. 
 

Stayed 1 night at Homolovi State Park. Needed a shower and sunset was spectacular. 

 

 

Edited November 2 by radin2son