wollip Posted October 31, 2015 No problem! I have another question - about the Ctek charger you are using. I think it has a built in cooling fan - if so, does it make much noise? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted October 31, 2015 I don't know the answer to that. I have another one in my shop and you can hear the fan but it's quite. On the only trip I've taken with my van I never used it. I'll pick a quite setting and plug it in and let you know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted October 31, 2015 KMG, what has been the life span of the batteries you use and where do you buy them? You may have a business source, so maybe the ? should be where is the best place to buy them. I was wrong about the price of the Zamp 80 amp portable solar unit. It sells for $450 (free shipping) on Amazon. Either prices came down, or SMB inflated the price to $700 plus shipping when I last looked. $700 will get you the 120 amp charger. Faster charging? But how much faster? Zamp doesn't list prices, just dealers. The one I checked locally didn't keep any in inventory. He'd order one. This low to no inventory is annoying. The only good thing is if the wrong part is sent or doesn't work out of the box, it can be sent back then. When attaching the cable to "daisy linked" batteries, do you put the positive on one and the ground on the other? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted October 31, 2015 I installed railroad crossing units that have 9 year old batteries. Thats about the life expectancy I'd expect from an AGM battery.I don't have a battery source. In the past I'd purchase them from a company in TX. My installation rig would stop and pick the pallet up, saving a lot on shipping. My advise, buy local save freight. Parallel connections (positive to positive and negative to negative) increase capacity without changing voltage.Serial connections or Daisy linked (positive from first battery to negative of second battery, continue till last battery. It's positive and the first battery's negative are your connection points) increases voltage without increasing capacity. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I'm not dead set on Zamp; it's just an example. Amazon sells another brand, same price, and could be the same unit, just another name. Positive reviews. The local RV repair guy, who sells but does not stock Zamp, looked at me like I was crazy and told me to just go buy the parts at Costco and build my own. He also said something to the effect that any fool can do this. Much like you did via email, leaving out the crazy and fool part... Maybe, I just like the provided carrying case... Connect positive to positive on first battery and negative to negative on second, last battery. Right? Edited October 31, 2015 by radin2son Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted October 31, 2015 A picture is worth a thousand words. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) No, no. That I get. You were too quick to respond, or I was too slow to clarify. I should have said connecting the portable solar connection wires, + and -, to the 2 house batteries. Do you connect the wire or clamps just to the 1st battery as you would in jumping a car or the + to the + on the 1st battery and the - to the - on the second? Edited October 31, 2015 by radin2son Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted October 31, 2015 Quick question, You have two 12VDC batteries and you want twice the capacity or do you want 24VDC with the same capacity? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted October 31, 2015 What? Are we talking about the same thing? If we are, my inner "any fool" has emerged... I only want to know how to attach a portable solar system cord to trickle charge the 2 house batteries. Do you just clamp it to the terminals on the first battery to charge both connected batteries? Initially, portable kits only came with alligator clamps and you had to buy a bolt on clamp with quick plug in at the other end. Now they come with both types of clamps, maybe not the quick plug in. If we decided to go with this, the bolt on and quick plug in is the only way to go given the placement of the house batteries. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) Radin2son, I'm trying my best to help. This reminds me of the classic "Who's on first" comedy skit.First, I was trying to determine if your two batteries were wired in series or parallel so I could correctly answer your question.Second, because I wasn't able to determine the answer from your response I asked if your system is 12 or 24 volts because that too would answer my question. Since I'm not sure how your van is wired all I can answer is: If the two batteries are wired in parallel you will have 12VDC and you connect the solar panel leads as follows:Positive lead to the positive terminal on either battery and negative lead to the negative terminal on the same battery. If the two batteries are wired in series you will have 24VDC and you connect the solar panel leads as follows:Positive lead to the positive terminal on the second battery and the negative lead to the first battery's negative terminal. That's all I got! Good luck Edited November 1, 2015 by KMG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) Complicated to me but not you, which is intended as a compliment. I now get it. Thank you. Not to belabor this, but I have never looked at the batteries* nor was I aware that there are 12 and 24 VDC setups. Just looked at the SMB manual, the batteries weigh 130 pounds and the tray another 15. (*Too heavy for me to remove/replace. They are bolted on under the side door step.) SMB recommends they or a service center do the service. 3 yr prorated warranty on battery with initial 12 month replacement. Basically a car battery warranty. The warranty has expired, so we'll see how long they survive. Edited November 1, 2015 by radin2son Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) You're welcome. I wish I could have explained it better. I looked at the space under the sliding door as a permanent battery location. Would using an automotive style rolling floor jack aid in removing your batteries? Just a thought. Edited November 1, 2015 by KMG Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radin2son Posted November 1, 2015 I'm sure that is what service centers use but it won't fit in the tool box in our NV. I'm better off leaving it to the professionals... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wollip Posted November 3, 2015 There is a very good Ctek video on YouTube, search for - D250S and SmartPass installation and operation 091209 It is very similar to the slide show that KMG referenced. There is no sound - all reading on this one - be prepared to pause it often since it moves quickly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wollip Posted November 16, 2015 KMG-Is your ctek d250s dual / smartpass setup located under the hood or in the cargo area?If it is in the cargo area, how are you grounding it (connection C) ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KMG Posted November 16, 2015 Wollip, I have my service battery's negative and I charged my system using a male accessory plug. It's negative is also connected to location C. The 250 and smartpass are mounted to the removable battery cover mounted over the passenger rear wheel well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wollip Posted November 17, 2015 KMG - I'm still not clear. I understand that all of the grounds (from Smartpass, Service Battery, Solar Cell)come to C. But then how are you grounding C itself? - to the frame or ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
