cwmacphail

Ferrigenfish, are you highway driving or city? Your typical speed?

1 year old, 11,000 miles. 9" crack suddenly appeared starting from top of windshield. No evidence of stone impact or any impact. << CORRECTION: There was a small stone impact mark near the edge, so this post is about nothing.

Good idea. There are very hard-to-find places under the vehicle if you use a piece of wire. Inconvenient, but better if you rarely access it.

I have had this problem (van locking me out 3 times, once recently.) A serious problem. I think twice it was after backing out of the garage and shutting off the engine and getting out for a short while. I don't think DennisV's answer is correct. I don't find what he described in the manual. My (2015 NVP) manual describes auto-lock as occurring when the vehicle reaches 15 MPH. It also describes a feature that will protect you in case you leave your key in the ignition. It also describes a feature called Auto relock, where the doors will lock themselves after 1 minute if the key fob UNLOCK button is pressed and certain other things are not done. But I never use the key fob or even carry it in my pocket. I have disabled the auto-unlock feature (doors unlock when shifting into Park). But my problem is auto-locking. So I'm stumped. My doors just lock themselves (once in a great while) for no good reason I can think of. DennisV, If I am missing something in the manual, could you please say what section/page you found it on? Any suggestions appreciated.

Answering my own question: I just pulled it off using some plastic pry bars. It's attached with about 12 white fasteners that just pop out. There is no special direction or puzzle aspect to it. Looks like it'll go back on with no problems. The compartment is sealed with thick plastic sheeting, which also pulls off pretty easily. The adhesive is a type that will maybe re-stick when I'm done.

I logged gas mileage for an entire 8,600 mile road trip on my 2015 NV Passenger Van 4.0 Liter V6 (SV). 5 of my tankfuls exceeded 18 mpg. (18.4, 18.44, 18.44, 18.44, 18.74). For these trips I was mostly targeting 65 MPH on cruise control, light-footed expressway driving with very few stops. 10 of my tankfuls were in the 17-18 mpg range. These segments included some 70-75 mph driving and probably 5-10% non-highway driving (still very light-footed driving). 4 tankfuls in the 16-17 mpg range. 2 tankfuls in the 15-16 mpg range. 2 tankfuls in the 14-15 mpg range. (Mostly city driving, some highway driving.) I tried to be light-footed the entire trip, by which I mean gentle acceleration, and working pretty hard to anticipate stops and taking my foot off the gas early vs using the brakes. The van was very lightly loaded. I don't think this matters at all for constant-speed highway driving, but it surely helped my city driving MPG. I removed about 450 lbs of stuff (8 of the 12 seats, center console, etc. There were no passengers and probably 300-400 lbs of my stuff. So it weighed a touch less than an empty van driven off the lot. Most of the gas was 87-octane "up to 10% ethanol." Some was 85 or 86 octane (what some western states call "regular").

I need to remove the plastic trim panel of the sliding door (NV Passenger van 2015). Anybody have tips on doing this without breaking anything?

Thank you very much ASD Dad. I don't know how I missed it. Directly below the key ignition switch, peeking through a hole in the gray plastic. (Tag OBD OBD2 OBDII Code reader port connector)

I need to plug in my OBD-II reader because the Check Engine light is on. Where is the port to plug this in? I was expecting to find it near the fuses under the driver's side dash, but I don't see it. (2015 NV Passenger Van) If anybody knows the answer…Thank you!

Thanks Radin2son. Helpful advice, I think. I'll "get out of the van" enough. Probably sleep in it 2-3 nights per week. Stay with friends other nights. I'm excited to bring a bike that I can deploy in maybe 20 seconds. Wheels stay on. It fits REALLY well just inside the rear doors if you turn it upside down. I was thinking of only cold food + restaurants…no stove…no dishwashing. But maybe stove + simple hot meals is the way to go. Yeah, cooking strictly outside the van. I don't get the solar suggestion. I made some fixtures with LED bulbs that put out lots of beautiful home-like light for 12 watts (5 + 7). I think I can drive those (and a 2-watt overnight fan) with a battery that recharges during drive-time. Harbor Freight "3-in-1 Jump starter" (lead-acid) or maybe a 12v Li-Ion model. I see people get into gridlock with all their "stuff," so I'm trying to keep everything organized and minimal. Thanks for all your tips.

Thanks Chris. Planning UT, CO, SD, MN, IL, TN, NC, SC, FL, LA, TX, NM, AZ Maybe tour of NV assembly plant in Canton, MS?

Thank you Mc2guy and Radin2son. I was not aware of skeeterbeaters. I'll need some mosquito netting in any case. I like a solution that works well in case of rain, and in case I'm sleeping in less safe area, or an area where sleeping is 'not permitted'.

Hello from just north of San Diego. Really appreciate this site and especially the forum posts! I'm doing a lot of minor tweaks to my new NV Passenger (SV V6). My first 8-week road trip will be this fall. I removed 8 of the seats and I'm working out some simple, lightweight solutions for stowage (including bike), a table, sleeping mattress, ventilation, and lighting. I looked at every van option and chose the NV for driver comfort and various other features. Hoping the V6 will get a little better mileage than other vans.

I'm fitting up my 2015 NV Passenger Van (SV V6) for some camping and overnight sleeping. I'll need some air exchange to keep it from getting humid and stale inside. Would like to hear suggestions. A. I wanted to patch an auxiliary battery onto the vehicle's front blower. I have decided against that because even on the lowest setting, the blower draws about 2.7 amps (32 watts). B. I found a 2-watt 5-1/2" (140mm) fan on amazon that supposedly moves 100 CFM . Very quiet and efficient. I wanted to mount it over the cabin-air exhaust grille (left-rear) but I found problems with that. 1. The rubber flaps where the air exits under the vehicle are a bit too stiff for this little fan. It can move enough air, but not if there is resistance. 2. Even if I had a more forceful fan, a lot of the air would probably recirculate back into the vehicle. Grille mounting does not provide a sealed pathway to the exhaust port. C. So, I am on to Plan C. I plan to install my own dedicated exhaust port under the vehicle…similar to the cabin-air exhaust port mentioned above…but without the heavy flaps. I'll velcro a nylon or aluminum cover over it when I'm not using the overnight fan. The fan will velcro directly to the 5.5" x 5.5" exhaust port. There is room just ahead of the right rear wheel well for just such a cut-out. It's on a vertical surface underneath the vehicle (faces the leaf spring mount). I have already removed the interior wall panel (for other purposes) so I have pretty good access to this area inside the vehicle's left wall. I know there are a lot of ceiling exhaust fans for RVs, but I want to avoid any visible external hatch because it creates drag and wind noise, and if it was on the roof it would create clearance issues for parking in my garage. My auxiliary power will be either a Harbor Freight 17 Amp-hour "3-in-1 Jump Start/Power supply" or a 12-volt 12 Amp-hour Li-Ion power supply newly available on amazon. I'm pretty new to this, so I would really appreciate any comments or suggestions. Maybe there is a better method I can learn about before cutting a hole in my shiny new Nissan NV!

Thank you ASD Dad! Exactly the detailed instructions I was hoping to find. If I notice any further clarifications or tips when performing this surgery, I'll post them. But it looks like you nailed it.