CaptainLarry

Thanks for the prompting, Cmercer9. I did resolve this just a few weeks ago. New starter after a 150 mile tow back home. $1800 at the dealer. We were stranded on top of a mountain on the Appalachian Trail. We were well taken care of by a nearby hostel, AAA and our overseeing God.

Interesting, Corvus. I do have a CEL on for some time now related to oxygen or cats. I suppose it could all be related. Please let us know what you find.

Hey All, I also had an overhead door light problem that I could not track down until the rear catch on the sliding door fell off and made it obvious what I needed to do. The rear latch is part of the front latch and all the other features, like in/out door handles, child lock, in/out lock mechanism. The whole thing pictured below is one complex system that I had to buy as an assembly. ($500, or one monthly payment on a new car!) Anyway, the door closes like a charm, the light stays off, the door is flush to the outside. I wish I had done it sooner as we've been slamming that poor thing for a couple years. When replacing, the many cables were switched one at a time to keep track of their termination points. Rather than replace one of the cables that terminated at the lower slide mechanism, I removed the new one and re-connected the old one. Larry

I guess this topic is not super old, but I think my comment may be helpful for posterity no matter. I had a shaking steering wheel problem for quite a while. Especially downhill into a turn. Scary when towing the camper. New tires did not fix it. Balancing seemed to help a little. I think a little more tow-in helped too at the alignment shop. (BTW - not every shop can handle the big vans.) But finally I stumbled into a long-term solution. Discount Tire, by chance, applied the wheel weights to the inside of the wheel rim, rather than pounding them into the outside of the wheel rim. So they are not visible anymore either, and I thought they just forgot to add weight at first. This solved the problem. Now I would think a sophisticated tire balancing shop/system could put the weights precisely where they are needed (inside/outside), but I don't know. I also don't think Discount Tire spins the tire fast enough, but they are fine now for a couple years, so there you have it. For the record, we use Cooper tires on stock rims with chrome hub caps. Nothing special. Larry

@ASD Dad Hey ASD Dad, did you buy an aftermarket bumper (rear?)? Were you satisfied? What was your source? I'm only a little concerned about the chrome thickness and rust popping up in a couple years. NEW Rear Step Bumper, Chrome Face Bar for 2012-2021 Nissan NV1500/NV2500 | eBay Larry

Interesting. Problem resolved, but I'm still curious. I have a non-start scenario that is somewhat similar and I don't suspect the anti-theft/IPDM system. I'll check it anyway. (Good video on 1.5x playback speed) This only occurs when it is colder, colder than it was the day before. Today was like 40s compared to 60s yesterday. The key is turned and all seems normal except a metallic tinking clicking sound under the hood near the intake manifold. No start. Sometimes we open close doors or hood (looking for problem) and then it starts. This has been going on for over a year, but very very intermittent. Only recently started again with cooler weather. Could it be battery? Maybe, but it always starts eventually with no intervention. So it has been a year or more on this same battery, hard to believe that is the problem. It has never died, and never runs poorly. Other ideas? Solenoid? Neutral safety switches? I just wonder if the IPDM condition manifests this clinking sound or not.

About that water pump replacement. My serpentine belt is squeaking now (180k?) and I noticed that the water pump stands out significantly, pushing the belt outward. The bend in the belt is very noticeable since the new noise drew my attention to it. Seems a very dramatic tolerance error from Nissan.

Sorry I could not help. I'm glad you figured it out. Mine arrangement did not have the 35 mph limitation.

I'm pretty sure the only place where I located the wires was at each overhead lamp. But I can't say that is going to help you if the wires go in parallel to the other fixtures. You'd have to trace it back to the timer and door relay. I'm not sure. I'm afraid I'm not much help. I did manage to load some images finally, I think.

I'm interested on behalf of a friend from Charlotte. Where are you located? Larry

I put my column back together since I could never reproduce the error. I'll be towing this coming week. We'll see how it does up and down the mountains.

I did open the column Wednesday as planned. A little different set-up than the Titan photos I saw. More clips to pop. Hopefully they will stay together after reassembly. The cheesy brushes that surround the shifter opening were damaged. (Rhetorical question - Why are those even there!) The wire bundle looked OK. There was only one potential weak point right where a sheathed bundle entered the steel shifter tubing. It very well could be broken inside, but the sheath was not really chaffed. So we sat right there in the driveway shifting in and out of manual mode with just the ignition on. No faults ever, despite wiggling, pulling, twisting, flexing, tilting the wheel. I also removed the plastic wire retainer to give the wires more freedom for the experiment. I left the cowling off for now to do some more tests while driving. Nothing so far.

Nice layout. Mine being a touch low, does dig the ground occasionally. But it's still working!

2014. I have not tried since Sunday. I was going to open the column tonight.

I had this happen while towing the camper down the Blue Ridge this weekend. So the Feds don't see this as a safety issue? No lawsuits? No crashing down the mountain? Nissan told me no TSB on file for that. Unreal. I guess I'll look under the steering column tonight.

I'm fed up with it. I'm looking for an aftermarket set of nuts that work right. I spent a very long time rotating tires Friday because the nut would get stuck in the socket. Now I've crushed the dome on a few just trying to get the nut out. In recent past I've also had to use the forbidden anti-seize just to be able to move the nuts on the thread by hand. I don't believe in swollen nuts. I think it is just poor quality nuts to start with. Repeat of IRV's request: Anyone recommend a decent replacement for these nuts?

My NV was "routine" serviced at 60k by Nissan while with another owner, and they changed the ATF. Unfortunately I found this out after I changed it myself at 76k. :doh:I used 16 qts S-Matic from Nissan @ $11/qt. Ouch! But the drain, fill, pump, repeat method is pretty easy compared to the Tundra. I'm at 135k after a long tow west, and I could probably stand to do this again soon.

Just so I did not have to think about it. No leaks or noise or anything. Just preemptive.

I just completed the back-up camera over ride in about 2 hours after weeks of research and planning. Not as difficult as I expected. Feeding hot 12v to pin 28 on the Nav system WITHOUT accessing the back of the radio. Locate a diode - I used a 3 amp but it is likely overkill. I did not test if the diode was even necessary. Locate a rocker switch - I used a generic switch from O'Reilly Autoparts Dorman Conduct-Tite P/N 84943 which fits into the blank near the mirror control. Remove the driver's side welt (?) - the rubber gasket around the door. Loosen the driver's side front post grab bar trim piece to reveal the side curtain airbag. One strong plastic rivet holds it on. Set it to the side. Two electrical clips are clipped to the post. The white 32 pin is what you need. This is M1 in the AV Shop Manual, page 105. Disconnect the batt. :-) Unplug the connector. Push the bottom plug upward to remove it from the clip holding it to the post. (This was hard.) Pull the BOTTOM plug toward you and carefully cut away the electrical tape about 4". Determine which ORANGE wire is in pin 28. I'll let you figure that out. It was next to a black wire then a violet came next to that. Cut the wire and strip the ends. Attach a diode to the wire coming out of the connector. The gray stripe end is the "negative" end, it should be wired so it is away from the connector to prevent current flow "backward" across to the mating (R1) connector. Connect the negative end of the diode to the other cut wire and a long splice that you will feed down into the dashboard. After testing, you can put the panels back together. Remove the small dash panel in front of the center console which has the 12 volt outlet in it. Pry with soft tools from the right. The left has two fingers that are released by pulling the panel to the right. Tap into the hot green wire with a splice and feed left under the dash. This is only hot when key is on. Loosen the dash panel under the steering wheel by removing two screws (fuse panel area and hood release area) then pry gently with soft tools. Pull it down enough to access 2 Philips screws with a stubby driver and remove the switch bank holding the mirror control, traction control and the blank. Pry out the blank. Feed the two spliced wires through the hole and onto the new switch. Plug in the switch. Button it together after a test.

Just call me a dummy again. I often do find the hard way to do things. I had not found the shop manuals until now! Thanks.

Uh...have you seen this link yet? https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-nv-factory-service-manuals.html

I'm just about finished now. Everything is wired and working as it should with three defects I need to address due mainly to sub-par light bulb sockets. They are rubber and a easily deformed and also some of their wires are very thin and weak. Besides that, the system is working as intended. It's actually pretty nice. The work was pretty tedious and taking considerable time. Had I rewired the four modules at once in sequence it would have gone faster. The switch modules pop out of the ceiling pretty easy. Take time to look for the various snap features that characterize the whole design. The unit un-snaps and then snaps together again easily, except the problematic rear light that is ultrasonic welded together in some spots. That rear light is a hot mess. Each OEM fixture has a three wire connection: hot (light blue), door conditional ground circuit (dark blue), common ground (black). I tapped into hot at one fixture then fed back to the 3 pos switch (New Blue). After rewire, the dark blue and black are tapped into at each point for serving their original purpose: dedicated door light conditional ground (OEM dark blue), "ON" and reading common ground (OEM black). The switch then switches 3 hots as mentioned above back to the light fixture. Pos1 - "Off" - Door control is off. Passengers can still turn on reading lights individually. (New Red) Pos2 - "On" - All reading lights are turned on overhead regardless of individual push button positions. (New White) Pos3 - "Door" (New Yellow) I gutted most everything from the light fixture except the two push buttons and their connector. I reclaimed the two diodes for the new circuit for the same purpose: allowing the reading lights to turn on one at a time. The main difference in the arrangement is that the door open circuit is routed through a new set of lights added to the fixture - so each fixture has 4 lights. That makes everything pretty crowded. The new 921 lights are pretty long, but they do fit. Again the rear light has the most trouble in this regard. Besides the rear light, the challenge for me was the many wire connections: soldering, nuts, taps, etc. Good bulbs, long, bright, polarity is a pain, not problem with CMOS. GRV T10 921 194 13-5050 SMD Wedge LED Bulb lamp Super Bright Warm White DC 12V Pack of 10 Cheap sockets, rubber - good because they squish, bad because they squish, some bad wire. i used a grinder to make the socket OD smaller in diameter. TOMALL 20pcs T10 194 W5W LED Light Bulb Socket Pre-wired Connector for If I can ever load my wiring diagram the color references may help more. Note: the 5 conductor thermostat wire only used four wires. Green was not used. LAr

I had Discount install new rubber and they were able to reset with the OBD. Now that's easy! I was shocked! I may have to bring it in to Discount for rotate every 5k. Ever notice those guys - like all of them at every Discount - are really sharp? Well mannered, handsome, well groomed, polite. Hummm?

Just FYI - I just completed my 120,000 service. It was very easy. I'm accustomed to doing the timing belt on my Tundra and all the peripheral wear items, so it was natural for me to consider fixing things before they break. Waterpump - Super easy. Right behind the serpentine belt. Bolt off / bolt on, Don't have to remove any brackets, but I did remove the fan. No sealant used. The old one looked fine. No leaks at 120k. Radiator hoses - probably not necessary but a hold over from the old days when they used to blow. I did not even have all the rubber i needed. No biggie. Thermostat - looked OK, but it's a no-brainer. Serpentine belt. The tensioner was surprisingly stiff to rotate, but it did. Coolant - of course Spark plugs - Easy. Nothing in the way. Differential oil - Blew it in with an air compressor, a 6' long hose and my 12YO son. I can say this was easier than I expected. I wonder if I could have gone another 80k. Any thoughts? Anything else I should consider before the big trip?

We've had the back door fail to close tightly and the door open warning light came on (maybe the overheads too). It just needed a good slam. No big deal.