CaptainLarry

I rechecked Transferflow.com for aux fuel tank and I see that they are at least making Nissan replacement tanks. 50 Gallon Nissan Titan XD Midship Replacement Diesel Fuel Tank$1500 wow! They say they have not checked NV3500 compatibility, but it has to be close. I put a suggestion in the box, but for my old van, a $1500 tank upgrade is sorta too late.

Hello ASD Dad, I know you're out there. I want to add the bypass switch to the reverse camera. Have you done that yet? Do I need to go to all this panel removal process to find the reverse lights wire that signals the camera to come one? I'm thinking it may be accessible further up stream. Lar

I see yesterday's post did not make it up here...I have such problems with this site. I can't seem to get the photo of the Quest switch uploaded either. Well, I finished my tests this weekend and ordered the LED replacement bulbs to finish the project. 20pcs LED 921 bulbs and sockets. The switch is from 2004... Nissan Quest. I can't find the Nissan P/N. I bought it used with 3" of wire on the connector plug which was very helpful. Ebay. Had to switch one wire terminal to get three hots since "off" was "off" but now it powers the reading lights only. The blank cover just popped out easily and the switch popped right in like it was made for it. One question: I routed the new 5 conductor wire from the control console (lower front center) behind the dash board, up the door column next to the AIR BAG and across the roof. I'm concerned about the wire interacting with the air bag. Any thoughts? More to come when the lights get here.

Yeah I'm consumed right now with an interior light renovation project. This vehicle needs lots of updates. The aux tank is front of mind because of an upcoming western trip. "No gas next 80 miles" :doh: I will be carrying a gas can. I did a tiny bit of research so I know my crude gravity tank idea is OUT! I'm not ruling out a "Push-N-Fuel" option from ATTA Tank. Just thinking out loud right now. Lar

FYI - I contacted Mike DeFord at Titan Fuel Tanks and got a "No we do not" answer to my inquiry. No alternates, no explanation. I get the feeling gasoline tanks and passenger vans are a bad liability combo. mike@titanfueltanks.com I'm starting to make a long list of stupid things I have done or am doing that could one day kill me or my family. Yikes! You know like drilling out the check valve on the propane pigtails to prevent the false checking during the middle of the night when the gas heater kicks on? Well how about fabrication of an auxiliary fuel tank? Fabricate a sheet metal bracket under the van and next to the frame that can hold a 10-15 gallon tank. Drill two holes in the existing tank, one on top for a vent, and one midway to allow 10-15 gallons of fuel to drain to/from the two tanks. Drill two corresponding holes (top/bottom) in the new tank. Connect the two tanks by two gasoline hoses. Besides the obvious concerns, I'm concerned how I make sure the four fittings are not going to leak - ever. In my son's words, this simple flow-through idea would be much more elegant than having a conventional gas can inside the van that pumps to the main tank when needed. Please don't tell me to just stop a few extra times to fill up in order to save the effort and avoid safety concerns. Automakers work hard to accomplish much more worthless amenities like heated steering wheels. :)

OK, I fixed my window rattle. I applied a drop of blue (not red permanent) Loctite to each pivot point of the two latches. I think there were 4 pivot points in the linkage. I left the widow open while it cured. My wife and children had a hard time closing it and had to push from outside. But I tried it after and it had a nice tacky feel to it. It takes effort to push it in/out. It won't just fall into place. So the rattle is now subdued. Hopefully the gap filing nature of the Loctite will keep the joint tight for the long term. We'll get started testing after this heat breaks. LAr

BTW - I emailed HERVan at the posted address and he never replied.

I'm working on this project now. I'm trying to get ready for a big Western trip, although this is not the most pressing project. I'd rather invest in a 15 gallon auxiliary fuel tank. I am going to use the 3 position switch I had bought, but I had to reposition one of the wires to an open terminal to get 3 hot positions. That was tricky but it is made to do that. Pos1 - "Off" - Door control is off. Passengers can still turn on reading lights individually. Pos2 - "On" - All reading lights are turned on overhead regardless of individual push button positions. Pos3 - "Door" - A new string of LEDs which I intend to wedge into the existing fixture will be set to come on with the door switch. This will be the only way I can turn off the reading lights should I need to while I'm driving (like when I need to see better in the moment.) This is not exactly what I hoped for and it is requiring significant wiring like adding the new toggle switch, a new 5 conductor wire overhead and all new LEDs for the doors. I'm in to it now so for better or worse I'm going for it. This weekend I do my final test on the circuits before I buy the needed LEDs. I'll keep you posted. This project is taking a long time, so be patient. Now, if any one can get me 10-15 extra gallons of fuel on board - please let me know (in a different thread of course). LAr

I'm complaining about an 2014 NVP3500HD strut failure at 106k. All I have for comparison is my high endurance 2007 Tundra. Dealership changed strut in 1 hour? I can't get windshield washer fluid checked that fast. Is it that easy or did they pull wool over eyes? What about alignment afterward? Something is not right. I'm in for new suspension and tires all around on my '14 NVP (Parts = $1186.82). The complete Tundra job took me about half a Saturday. My second go may be quicker.

Reference this thread... https://nissannvforum.com/topic/364-tpms-reset-after-rotating-tires/

I wonder if Fazed ever fixed his window rattle. I may try to drip some Loctite on the pivot points or something. They rattle when open and when closed. Seems the Big Three had this mostly figured out already, right?

Maybe Dustin was happy to DIY, maybe he took it to Nissan. Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't find it easy. I mark-up the owners manual with notes every time I do this. The one practical thing I've learned is to do the reset with all four wheels laying on the ground in proper placement, but in a small pile. It saves the running around with the air hose. And my 11 YO is another essential tool seated in the driver's seat. I must be missing something. This process makes me curse every time.

No. I have a 3 position Nissan switch, but I'm just too lazy to start into this.

Maybe this is how the whole van market works, but my feeling is this NV passenger is just a bad retrofit of a cargo van.

Kenny, Any tips for getting that panel off? I have little experience popping auto interior panels. Larry

So it's taken me a few months to believe my son (the rear seat rider) when he says it's hot back there. I checked myself during a hot afternoon. Very little air coming out of the back vent. Not cold at all. Probably moving so slow it heats up in the duct before exiting. From the posts it seems I just have to live with it. You can say you love the van. I say it hauls lots of people and lots of stuff, but it's no Toyota. No love here. I'll just bear it for 10+ years.

Built from scratch. Dims are pretty special, given the slight angle of the tubing and the offset holes. Might you want to buy one if I make another? $200 plus shipping might make it worth my while.

Mine work too. Only have to turn it off with the bike rack in place. Annoying.

Hello, Has anyone found a convenient place to stow or hang a garage door button? The visors are too thick to clip to as designed. The little cargo spot behind the steering wheel on the dashboard is too hard to reach. I miss the integral GDO on the Sienna. I guess I could form a new clip for the back of the button. I'm handy like that. :) Larry

Yes, i know I'm replying to a dead issue...but for the record my DW complained of brake noise at 80k and I shrugged her off b/c I expected longer pad life than that. Turns out the bottom rear passenger slide pin was seized from rust where the interior rubber seal failed. Not sure why. The caliper on that side was only $185, but the driver side is almost $100 more for some reason. The brakes work so much better now. Less effort. Just FYI

Psyched, I read your Inversion of Forgiveness. Sounds like you're living the life. Thanks for sharing the good news and the Good News.

Thanks for taking time to explain that. It does sound like you did a lot of work. It's time for Curt to redesign a set-up for the NV.

I'm SLOWLY working on this. I bought a three position switch. It would be nice to have the weather cool down before I work out in that van for a few hours. I expect this to be a pain. I wonder if my car audio guys could work this up for me.

I'm curious what "cut the cross bar and trim the end plates" means? I mean it looks really good like it could be a good option for folks, but how much work was that? Was welding involved - you said bolted, but I can't follow? And how much did it cost compared to $650. Finally, how does pushing the camper work?

Mark, Keep us posted and send photos. I'm still on the hunt. I did get a $653 quote from Radco for long/long arrangement, but I'm holding out on spending that much. Did you find if TAC had a long/long option? Larry