Randucci
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Posts posted by Randucci
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I rotated my tires and tried the re-set process three times and it wouldn't re-learn, I got the message: "Incomplete, see manual" each time, pretty frustrating. What doesn't seem clear is, before you start deflating each tire for 30+ seconds, what position does the ignition switch need to be in? Off, On or the running position? I had it in the running position each time. I also pulled the valve stem so there was enough PSI drop in the 30 seconds. I started with the pressures the manual said, LF=25, RF=40, LR=80 and RR=60.
Any suggestions?
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When I purchased new wheels and tires, I had the tire store take the TPMS sensors off of the stock steel rims and put them on the new wheels. I have the original stock steel wheels that I want to mount snow tires on. If I just use standard air stems, the TPMS will just show a yellow light error, correct? Just curious, any body buy sensors and if so, how much are they?
I sure like my Audis where they don't have TPMS sensors in the wheels, they use a sensor on the brake rotor, so it doesn't matter what tire/wheel you put on, it still works.
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I like it! A lot! Clean and simple.
How is the light bar wired? Is it flood or spot?
i also have LED's in my headlights but still want better long distance illumination.
I would say the light bar is more flood than spot. I used to off road race and found that Cibie 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round lights gave the best pattern and range, that was back in the days of halogen bulbs though. I have found LED bulbs to be very bright, but don't have much range. I know that the 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round lights might not go the best with the square or rectangular lines of the NV thought. I think a great Aux. light might be to get Cibie or Hella 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round replacement headlights that have a low/high capability using halogen 80/100 watt bulbs and put them in housings. That way you could switch them between short and long distances.
Something like this:
You can see in the "Frequently bought together" section at the bottom, it has the lights, wire harness and the 100/80 watt bulbs. You would need to get housings/buckets, but there are lots of those available.
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I would have considered maybe doing thicker foam for the extra long drives, but I
andy_george reacted to this -
The link's not working, but it sounds like a pretty good idea.
Please check the link again and let me know if it works.
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I wanted to mount a light bar on the front plus give a little protection in case someone backed into me (a light impact). I didn't want a large overpowering tube guard, so I ended up fabrication my own design. I used a 18" piece "D" shaped rubber dock bumper material and mounted it to a piece of aluminum rectangular tubing I bent to match the stock bumper curve/radius. The "D" shaped rubber dock bumper is stiff, but will give enough to add a little protection. Since I changed the main headlights to LEDs, the daytime running lights don't work on them, so, I wanted to add a couple LEDs to the light bar as DRLs. It came out good with a minimal look, let me know what you think.
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I wanted to add some padding to the top of the center console so it wasn't so hard. I cut a piece of 3/8" plywood and added some thin foam with a textured grey vinyl fabric, it came out pretty good.
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Yes, I wish there was much more private interest in the NV van, it can be so much more than a commercial work van. I was originally going to get a MB Sprinter, but when it came down to the $65,000 price tag, I just didn't want to spend that much. Yes, the Sprinter offers a diesel engine that gets better fuel milage, it also offers many more options to make it more luxurious, but at twice the costs, I can buy a lot of gas and add options I want myself. I also find it frustrating that hardly anyone offers much in the way of aftermarket equipment, I can't even find a better performance shock! I think if Nissan put the same diesel as in the Titan and a few more options, they would compete very close with the Sprinter.
OK, rant off....
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I do a lot of my own fabrication because it is what I like to do. I like to share the builds because I have been inspired by what others have done and hope mine might inspire others. It is kind of frustrating to take a bunch of pictures and explain everything and only get 2 responses out of 102 views. Kind of makes one think it wasn't worthwhile to have shared.
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None of the links work for me, all get 404 not found on server errors.
Not sure about the photos not posting, like I said in the other post - I cant get any feedback from the higher ups at the site admin level.
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Let me know if you can see these:
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Mark Rogers reacted to this -
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Picture link posted in the first thread.
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I wanted to mount some Yakima Streamline aero crossbars so I could add a few roof top accessories (awning, solar panel and Road shower). The yakima mounting system for the four cross bars I wanted to mount would have been over $600 and that didn't even include the cross bars! I ended up fabricating all my own mounting hardware so it would be the way I wanted it. All the components are either stainless steel or aluminum. I first fabricated the aluminum mounting blocks. These were made from a solid piece of aluminum bar, cut to length and then shaped in a aero configuration to cut drag, reduce noise and match the Yakima Streamline cross bars. I then made the stainless square nuts to go under the eight (four on each side) factory Nissan mounting brackets on the roof. The were sized so that they fit tightly and didn't rotate when lightning them making it not necessary to get a wrench on them to hold them. The stainless "T" slot bolts were next, which slide into the Yakima Streamline cross bars to fasten them to the aluminum mounts. Last were the four stainless brackets that were needed to mount the James Baroud awning. Since the van is a high roof, I needed to angle the bracket down some so it wouldn't go straight out, otherwise the end poles would have been too short. Plus, I wanted some angle on the awning for water run off and shade.
Here are a some pictures of the mounting hardware:
https://photos.googl...2NxdGtObWJ0Rkxn
For some reason, i can't upload individual pictures (which hasn't been a problem in the past), I get this error "The server returned an error during upload." Anyone else having a problem posting pictures? Any ideas what is going on?
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.Mark Rogers reacted to this -
Looks great! I have a similar setup, but my inverter is separate from my truck’s 12VDC system. I’m thinking of changing this and that leads to my question: what size cable did you use to connect the “coach
Chris J. Dempsey and Bamps reacted to this -
What did you use for a battery try for your dual batteries under the hood ? Did you have to do any cutting or relocating or parts to accomodate the new battery tray ? Do you have any photos of the tray without the batteries in place ? I have plan to add a aux battery under the hood but not sure on all the steps and parts I need.
I have a 2013 Nissan NV1500 with the V6. How different is the fit ? How much did all the under seat pieces cost you.
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated
I used a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate for the tray base and fabricated all the pieces, sorry, I didn't take any pictures of to by itself. I had to remove the factory mounting posts that was tack welded in place and grind to smooth. I don't know what differences between a 2013 and a 2016 are, I would guess none or minimal, they haven't change much.
I don't remember how much the total cost was for all the drawer parts were, (besides, you would need to get new prices as it was over a year ago I purchased all of them), The drawer was the most, I'm guessing between $100 - $140. But it is all factory and fits with no problem.
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These are still for sale!
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Those of you that have installed the swivel adapter, did you have to remove the center console (and leave it out) for them to work?
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We haven't used it much yet, but we added the RhinoRack Sunseeker awning earlier this year. Easy to mount on existing NV roof fittings. Link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CBMD56H
How about a few pictures of how you mounted it?
I would be interested in hearing from those who have a high roof van on what type of awning they have and if it is a manual one, how do you get up to it to set it up? Take a ladder with you?
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I have been using these for 8mos now and I really like the feel of them.
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@ASD Dad, I installed a pair of the Nineo's, but the DRL lights (daytime running lights) don't come on, do they on yours? The low and high beam does, but not the DRLs. I like that function, so I wish it did function, maybe the LEDs just don't like the lower voltage.
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Sounds like you haven't had any CAN-BUS errors which cause blinking or flashing, correct? I see they sell a resistor that supposedly takes care of the problem:
But if you have had no problem, then it isn't needed. Thanks.
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Kind of happy this was bumped back up, I have been experimenting withe LED's since the new designs have come out with adjustable bases and built in shields for glare and pattern. My HID's died and I didnt feel like messing with alignment again. I also never liked their high beam pattern.
I can say do NOT get the Auxbeam lights. They are triangular in design and throw spot beam of light. There is almost no spread and you really cant adjust them to get rid of that pattern. They went back immediately.
I am currently trying out the Nineo brand from Amazon. They are the same as several others, just different names on the box. They have a built in shield for the low beams to get a better pattern and reduce glare. So far they are working well but I really had to lower my housing alignment. Once I did that the pattern looks decent with just a few cool spots. They are very bright. The bonus - they have a great high beam pattern. They really throw some light in a nice beam down the road. I did align them ever so slightly off the way they come but it was easy. Most lights including the Auxbeam have a setscrew you can take out to adjust the orientation.
I plan on running with these a while especially with the time change and getting dark so much earlier. I'll see how they do in the next week or two.
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@ASD Dad, Are you still liking the Nineo LEDs? I only see them offered in 6500K, is that what you have?
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In my 2016 Owner's Manual on page 2-2 it shows a Instruments and Controls diagram, but does not show the fog light switch.
Also, where are the heated seat control switches located?
Thanks.
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Where is the fog light switch located on the dash for the SL models? Can you post a picture of it installed? Thanks.
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TPMS RESET after rotating tires
in Wheels & Tires
Posted
I did pull each valve cores and timed the deflation for a minimum of 30 seconds. I checked each tire and they were all down at least 10psi.
So the ignition doesn’t have to be on when you do the deflation? I guess the TPMS sensors are triggered because they are battery powered. Some have posted you need to inflate 10psi past the 80, 60, 40 and 25 psi pressures, is that a “must”?