Randucci

I did pull each valve cores and timed the deflation for a minimum of 30 seconds. I checked each tire and they were all down at least 10psi. So the ignition doesn’t have to be on when you do the deflation? I guess the TPMS sensors are triggered because they are battery powered. Some have posted you need to inflate 10psi past the 80, 60, 40 and 25 psi pressures, is that a “must”?

I rotated my tires and tried the re-set process three times and it wouldn't re-learn, I got the message: "Incomplete, see manual" each time, pretty frustrating. What doesn't seem clear is, before you start deflating each tire for 30+ seconds, what position does the ignition switch need to be in? Off, On or the running position? I had it in the running position each time. I also pulled the valve stem so there was enough PSI drop in the 30 seconds. I started with the pressures the manual said, LF=25, RF=40, LR=80 and RR=60. Any suggestions?

When I purchased new wheels and tires, I had the tire store take the TPMS sensors off of the stock steel rims and put them on the new wheels. I have the original stock steel wheels that I want to mount snow tires on. If I just use standard air stems, the TPMS will just show a yellow light error, correct? Just curious, any body buy sensors and if so, how much are they? I sure like my Audis where they don't have TPMS sensors in the wheels, they use a sensor on the brake rotor, so it doesn't matter what tire/wheel you put on, it still works.

I would say the light bar is more flood than spot. I used to off road race and found that Cibie 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round lights gave the best pattern and range, that was back in the days of halogen bulbs though. I have found LED bulbs to be very bright, but don't have much range. I know that the 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round lights might not go the best with the square or rectangular lines of the NV thought. I think a great Aux. light might be to get Cibie or Hella 5 1/2" or 7" Dia. round replacement headlights that have a low/high capability using halogen 80/100 watt bulbs and put them in housings. That way you could switch them between short and long distances. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-002395801-Halogen-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B001G72SKQ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=cibie+replacement+headlights&qid=1562690615&s=automotive&sr=1-9 You can see in the "Frequently bought together" section at the bottom, it has the lights, wire harness and the 100/80 watt bulbs. You would need to get housings/buckets, but there are lots of those available. .

Please check the link again and let me know if it works. .

. I wanted to mount a light bar on the front plus give a little protection in case someone backed into me (a light impact). I didn't want a large overpowering tube guard, so I ended up fabrication my own design. I used a 18" piece "D" shaped rubber dock bumper material and mounted it to a piece of aluminum rectangular tubing I bent to match the stock bumper curve/radius. The "D" shaped rubber dock bumper is stiff, but will give enough to add a little protection. Since I changed the main headlights to LEDs, the daytime running lights don't work on them, so, I wanted to add a couple LEDs to the light bar as DRLs. It came out good with a minimal look, let me know what you think. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMag7xpV1AfUV7_fbfAjvPUdOtCH4a5SZfCs22VfzZ-yChjPdw1R9nU24QBp89ySA?key=c1BDUHlmSzhYME9WR0RxeG4tenM2N0pYa2k4UV9R

. I wanted to add some padding to the top of the center console so it wasn't so hard. I cut a piece of 3/8" plywood and added some thin foam with a textured grey vinyl fabric, it came out pretty good. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPCaPj2AoPMF3qOuqEqSDJBBls4E705hrQRqB3K4Ev7OUII3l4n4ZvPq-BwFpLZxA?key=MUJISU9rSl9qdGY4eFpuaHJqcXFka2p4b2VNV0Vn

Yes, I wish there was much more private interest in the NV van, it can be so much more than a commercial work van. I was originally going to get a MB Sprinter, but when it came down to the $65,000 price tag, I just didn't want to spend that much. Yes, the Sprinter offers a diesel engine that gets better fuel milage, it also offers many more options to make it more luxurious, but at twice the costs, I can buy a lot of gas and add options I want myself. I also find it frustrating that hardly anyone offers much in the way of aftermarket equipment, I can't even find a better performance shock! I think if Nissan put the same diesel as in the Titan and a few more options, they would compete very close with the Sprinter. OK, rant off....

I do a lot of my own fabrication because it is what I like to do. I like to share the builds because I have been inspired by what others have done and hope mine might inspire others. It is kind of frustrating to take a bunch of pictures and explain everything and only get 2 responses out of 102 views. Kind of makes one think it wasn't worthwhile to have shared.

. Let me know if you can see these: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP9yoJ-pIj6g-IDaFju_Ymd2RcZite02yBM3d0mAOCdmAvExS4w9a7SZuOqjZZHHw?key=MHFsdlZ6dEpTM1Y3S3RJdEtkd2NxdGtObWJ0Rkxn .

. Picture link posted in the first thread.

I wanted to mount some Yakima Streamline aero crossbars so I could add a few roof top accessories (awning, solar panel and Road shower). The yakima mounting system for the four cross bars I wanted to mount would have been over $600 and that didn't even include the cross bars! I ended up fabricating all my own mounting hardware so it would be the way I wanted it. All the components are either stainless steel or aluminum. I first fabricated the aluminum mounting blocks. These were made from a solid piece of aluminum bar, cut to length and then shaped in a aero configuration to cut drag, reduce noise and match the Yakima Streamline cross bars. I then made the stainless square nuts to go under the eight (four on each side) factory Nissan mounting brackets on the roof. The were sized so that they fit tightly and didn't rotate when lightning them making it not necessary to get a wrench on them to hold them. The stainless "T" slot bolts were next, which slide into the Yakima Streamline cross bars to fasten them to the aluminum mounts. Last were the four stainless brackets that were needed to mount the James Baroud awning. Since the van is a high roof, I needed to angle the bracket down some so it wouldn't go straight out, otherwise the end poles would have been too short. Plus, I wanted some angle on the awning for water run off and shade. Here are a some pictures of the mounting hardware: https://photos.googl...2NxdGtObWJ0Rkxn For some reason, i can't upload individual pictures (which hasn't been a problem in the past), I get this error "The server returned an error during upload." Anyone else having a problem posting pictures? Any ideas what is going on? . .

I used a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate for the tray base and fabricated all the pieces, sorry, I didn't take any pictures of to by itself. I had to remove the factory mounting posts that was tack welded in place and grind to smooth. I don't know what differences between a 2013 and a 2016 are, I would guess none or minimal, they haven't change much. I don't remember how much the total cost was for all the drawer parts were, (besides, you would need to get new prices as it was over a year ago I purchased all of them), The drawer was the most, I'm guessing between $100 - $140. But it is all factory and fits with no problem.