Tatunka

Update for the 2017-2021 NV with the VK56DE V8 So I bought a new NV, but because we don't live in Canada no block heater, so same problem. After a little research I found a diagram of the 2017-21 VK56DE block with the location of the OEM block heater. The problem is that it is located in the middle of the block under the manifold, seriously Nissan! So I went to the dealer on an unrelated issue and asked about the heater location. The dealer confirmed the location, good news; the heater is a $65 dollar part, bad news is labor to install it is $740! so it's an $800+ job to install an OEM block heater! So that wasn't happening, back to square one. So I found that the location for the frost plug is in the same location as the previous motor, and all the parts above will work as it is the same 30mm hole. If you can't find a OEM part that will work, Kat's Heaters has heaters that fit.

I will say that the newer 5.6/ 7 speed transmission is a nice upgrade. But everything else is as it should be.

Oops, sorry should of specified. It was obvious to me ?

Thanks! The tires are Toyo Open Country AT3, size LT275/65/20. The wheels are 20" Fuel Blitz, offset is +20, the slider opens fully and locks. The lift is the 2.75 inch from Advanced.

I installed my Redarc kit from E-trailer tonight, I used the NV to Redarc adapter for the vehicle connections and mounted the brain to the fire wall. To mount the control I used the plug that came with the kit. To pop out the insert I found it easiest to take out the glove box and push on the backside and it pushed right out.

Just traded in my 2013 SL with a Quigley conversion for a 2020 SL with an Advanced conversion. My 2013 only had 84k on it, but since 2021 will be the last year I figured it was the right time to upgrade. Now to modify ?

Page 174 of the body builders guide has the dimensions.

Sometimes my utility trailer's lights won't full work until I drive with it attached, I think it has to do with the connection between the ball and the coupler for a ground. Use a multimeter to test the 7 pin, then the adapter, if you still haven't found the problem test the trailer with a 12v battery (jump pack if you have one) by hooking up each pin to the battery.

A few months late to the post, but I wanted to share my experiences with towing an RV with the NV. I bought my NV in 2013 with the Quigley 4x4 conversion and towed an Outback 301BQ (33.5ft 7200 dry/9000 GVWR (I weighed it at 8650 camping)) for seven years. We recently bought a GD Imagine 3250BH (36ft 8500 dry/10,195 GVRW) I have yet to put it on the scale, but I'm guessing it is right around the 92-9400 mark loaded for camping (we pared down a lot of stuff we thought we'd use, but never did in the old camper). Towing with the NV was night and day compared to my 2011 F150 (3.5 Ecoboost). The Ford was good for power, but the payload was only 1350lbs and it would get pushed around by the trailer. The NV has been sure footed and easy to travel in, we have 4 kids and they love the space afforded to them. No "she's touching me", which is nice. I use an 10,000lbs Equal-i-zer hitch and have been very happy with the product, we are in Minnesota and we travel through North and South Dakota frequently where the winds can be nasty and the speed limits are high (read semi truck passing you) and I haven't had any instances of trailer sway that the hitch couldn't take care of. So that's what I do. I do know what the spec weights are for the NV, but I agree with your mechanic. This thing is way under rated for a tow vehicle. I have personally towed 11,000 lbs with it and it didn't flinch, I had no worries. The brakes are great, properly set up trailer brakes are even better. The transmission will rev the piss out of the motor when in tow mode, just hang on for the ride. It is definitely not a diesel and you will get 8 MPG towing, just accept it. People at campgrounds will stare at you and maybe even ask you questions, just a heads up. The biggest problem that I have run into: Tires, I had a 4x4 conversion with a 3 inch lift, I wanted big tires so I went with a 34 inch tall tire (a 5 inch difference from stock). The NV pulled the weight but, it was hard keeping speed and I had to pull in 4th gear. I now run 265/65-18s that are 31.5 inches tall, they still look good and towing with them is way better and I usually tow in drive now. So if you want bigger, meatier tires, just be careful of the size if you want to tow up to the max. I have really enjoyed towing with the NV and will hopefully be buying another this spring before they are gone.

From what I understand production will end Summer 2021, last orders for cargos was in November 2020, last orders for passengers is April 2021. Corporate is killing off the commercial designation.

I was talking with a Nissan dealer and they stated production on the NV will end Summer 2021. The dealer said that his last day to order cargo vans was in November, but he was unsure if he could still order passenger models. Also about the Titan, the reason that Nissan dropped the diesel was because Nissan did not meet the purchase quota for engines from Cummins. Sounds like Nissan corporate dropped the ball from what the dealer was explaining, apparently the dealers as a whole were asking for the diesel in the NV and corporate didn't want to take a chance on it. Lost opportunity in my opinion.

Sorry to hear, I was hoping to hear better things about Tim Dahle, that sounds like a nightmare. I have been in contact with them to see if we could come to agreement on a new truck, but like you said it has been me that has to hound them to get my questions answered. Quick question, what size tires are you running? With my larger tires I have gotten some pretty significant bump steer, not all the time, but it's there. Also I had an issue with my aftermarket wheels, they felt like they were out of balance and no matter how many times I had Discount or the Dealership balance them. After awhile I figured it out, one of the wheels was out of balance. I'm not sure why the balancing machines didn't pick it up, and Nissan even tore the front end apart to try and figure it out. IDK, somewhere to start.

Sorry it's taken me so long to follow up; got busy yada, yada you know the drill. Anyway the apparent problem was what andy_george suspected, rodent damage. I originally did not suspect rodent damage because this truck is a daily driver and the service tech described the damage as "frayed wires", but it turns out something was snacking on my wires. So they replaced the wiring harness and sent me on my way. Separately, the P0448 code was diagnosed as the "fuel evap valve". It was performing as it should per the dealers tests, I would just have to live with the check engine light on. So I had it replaced since it was in the shop. So now it runs and no check engine lights.

I am posting this so if anybody else has this problem, or if they have had this problem, write below. So awhile back the MIL light came on, it came back as code P0448. A pretty common code with the 5.6 motor, evaporative emissions systems vent, short circuit. I thought no big deal, I must have filled the gas tank too full too many times. It would come and go, I would ignore it and clear the code. Fast forward to last Saturday, I come out of work and start the truck. It reads low fuel. Ok, whatever. I go to the gas station and fill it up, 11.3 gals and shutoff. Umm, check the fuel gauge and it's still on E. I figured the gas gauge was bad, so I started to keep track of the fuel/mileage. Sunday, I go to start the truck and it wont start, WTF. I check the codes (P0448, P0447, P0183, P0181, P0463) fueses, relays, and bang on the tank. Nothing works. I get the truck towed to the stealer, they drop the tank and find that the wiring harness is frayed and shorting out causing the fuel system to shut down. So, the wiring harness is on its way and I'll report back the location of the harness and where it frayed. Has anybody heard of a frayed wiring harness, I would think the factory would secure the hell out of it. But I've been wrong before.