The Roadtrek Nav6 / N6 Active NV Conversions Thread

[radin2son]

Youtube has several “owner” walk around nav6 videos that may answer some of these questions. 

[2manybikes]

On 12/8/2023 at 11:59 AM, WanderlustAV said:

Rear ac/heat is just that one vent I believe.  

 

I supposedly have #0, was the build used to sell the model, and it has the grey vinyl and black running boards.  Yours is probably a later model, what year chassis?   It'll be hard to figure out the evolution of this rig since Roadtrek was apparently going under while building it, few were made and Roadtrek didn't record anything about them. 

 

The shower/hose on mine only connected to city/shore water as far as I could tell. Maybe Roadtrek realized how useless this was and cut it out of the later models?

 

Chrome runners have got to be better than the black trim.  None of my black trim/running boards was installed proper.

 

Where's the shore power located on the N6s with the chrome runners?  

 

 

Thanks for the info.  Turns out the one on the floor and the one to the left of the microwave blow AC.    Looks like the shore power is in the back near the hitch receiver.   Opposite side of trailer light plug

Edited December 13, 2023 by 2manybikes

[2manybikes]

Anyone know what this pair of unconnected wires should connect to?   This is in the water bottle compartment.

[2manybikes]

Need some more help.   The N6 I bought had the back seat removed.   I'm reinstalling it and I'm having an issue with the passenger side rear seatbelt receptacle.   1) seller did not include it 2) I can't find out where it would bolt to and what it looks like so I can search for a replacement.   Any chance someone can snap a picture of where that passenger side receptacle is supposed to mount to the frame of the back seat?   The driver side is there and is obvious, but that location on the passenger side would get covered over by the top section of the seat frame that over laps the wheel well.

 

Thanks!

[Los Gatos Seller]

We have a 2012 Nissan Roadtek Nav 6 and are looking to finally sell it!  We live in Los Gatos CA.  If anyone has advise on the best place to post it I would appreciate it.

[WanderlustAV]

Here's where I ended up installing a Renogy IP67 rated dc-dc charger.  Aside from the TrippLite inverter/charger, which is still original to the Roadtrek build (and charges the lifepo4 bank just fine when the dip switches are correctly set) the rig's electrical is now updated. 

 

I used the existing Roadtrek installed breaker on the starter side and the Renogy recommended ANL fuse on the house battery side.  Doing it again, I would put manual reset breakers on either side so you have a way to cut power from the house banks and starter batt when needed for service.  I also don't like having to carry spare ANL fuses, not that it's likely to ever be an issue. 

 

The Renogy gear had been fine and performed well in the more harsh install locations but the bluetooth connectivity is awful.  The charger will pull up every time on the app but the battery bank may or may not.  Not fun having to pull the batts out from the undercarriage to troubleshoot when it's actually just the crappy Renogy app/BT connection that's the problem.  My batteries are the self heating model that need the BT module plugged into the com ports, it might be better if the battery has the BT built in but I'm not sure.  The BT connection and app itself provide good insight to the batteries however.  

[Monte Edwards]

About to buy low mileage N 6 . Have no previous van experience. My thinking is wanting single vehicle to serve as primary vehicle for general use but perform as camper when traveling. I already know has poor gas mileage, but will have savings by going to single vehicle in insurance, licensing, etc.  thanks 

[WanderlustAV]

On 8/18/2024 at 9:03 AM, Monte Edwards said:

About to buy low mileage N 6 . Have no previous van experience. My thinking is wanting single vehicle to serve as primary vehicle for general use but perform as camper when traveling. I already know has poor gas mileage, but will have savings by going to single vehicle in insurance, licensing, etc.  thanks 

 

The Roadtrek build was designed to plug in to shore power so if you're using campsites with power, worksites, friend's place, etc. it ought to be a great fit.   

 

If you want to boondock you'll need to be very careful about power usage or upgrade the system.  Modernizing the electrical system is pretty expensive and is a decent amount of work that requires some proper electrical knowledge.  Not necessary to open that can of worms if you're plugging in but know that you can't use all features of the van as built off it's house power, or at least not for very long.  

 

You've probably though of all this, but before buying one of these now decade old rigs check for rust, mold and for mice/rodent damage.  Tires over 10yo should be replaced.  Starter battery might be near done.  Same for house batteries (NAPA has good, drop in replacements).  If it wasn't regularly driven I'd also budget to have all fluids swapped.   If yours has the black trim/running boards that's a less preferable trim to whatever else Roadtrek used later.   

 

Anyways, lots of good info in this thread here- good luck!

[radin2son]

Agree with WanderlustAV re getting van roadready. MPG is not that big an issue unless you tow. MPG and 28 gallon tank will mean frequent stops. At least it uses regular gas. We have never been particularly concerned about octane. If it works for locals, then your NV will be fine. 
 

Check to see if you can insure it as a RV. Lower rates and perhaps better coverage vs a diy van conversion. 
 

No one has done this to my knowledge, but I would look into a goal zero type solar generator. Expensive but can be used for more than camping. 

[WanderlustAV]

Absolutely insure it as an RV if at all possible.  Far better rates and coverage for the money.  

 

I've supplemented with a Goal Zero Yeti 1500x for hunting trips and ski days where I needed more juice than the house battery was going to provide.  When underway you can charge it with the N6's inverter and/or you can use portable solar with it.   It's not a bad move to just add a portable power unit v. rebuilding the FLA battery system to lithium.   You end up with some redundancy, portability and the inverter in the goal zero or similar is going to be way more efficient.   Downside is it takes up more interior space.  

 

If you want to add solar, this might make a case for upgrading the electrical system as many b2b chargers have mppt built in.  

[rvivian]

I've just replaced the AGM batteries and have a Jackery "solar" generator that plug into the shore power connection to power the van.

 

A smaller Jackery unit inside powers my wife's CPAP machine for three nights between charges. 

[radin2son]

Monte Edwards, When you insure your NV, be sure to identify it first as a Roadtrek. Look for the RV certification sticker (outside on rear of van?) if is still attached. This will get the agent on the right track. 

[radin2son]

Need to replace (soon?) the house batteries on our van. Came across this on Sportsmobile forum. “How to calculate the right battery capacity.”
 

remispowersystems.com 

 

Comments on the SMB forum said 3-4 days with only house batteries. We get a few days more if we restrict use to fridge only. We also have interior LED lights that we use sparingly. (Lithium batteries last 2-3 days. I would have thought longer.)

 

We decided not to go solar. Forum users said 100 to 300 watts needed depending on sunny vs cloudy to maintain batteries and use. 
 

 

[WanderlustAV]

On 9/1/2024 at 10:54 AM, radin2son said:

Need to replace (soon?) the house batteries on our van. Came across this on Sportsmobile forum. “How to calculate the right battery capacity.”
 

remispowersystems.com 

 

Comments on the SMB forum said 3-4 days with only house batteries. We get a few days more if we restrict use to fridge only. We also have interior LED lights that we use sparingly. (Lithium batteries last 2-3 days. I would have thought longer.)

 

We decided not to go solar. Forum users said 100 to 300 watts needed depending on sunny vs cloudy to maintain batteries and use. 
 

 

 

What's in there currently?

[radin2son]

2 AGM batteries. Plan to replace them with same. When depends on how well they hold a charge on next trip. 

[radin2son]

Don’t know if owner of N6 Active is on this forum but one is for sale on conversiontrader.com. 
 

$49,500 with 49k on the odometer. Photos include the MSRP Sticker ($72,900). 
 

FWIW, Our Sportsmobile was $65k+ before doubling the size of the water tank and adding hot water. Added $1k+. 

Edited September 9 by radin2son

[radin2son]

More AGM info. RV house batteries typically last 6 years, 10 if you are lucky. We replaced ours 6 years ago. 

[WanderlustAV]

Replacing the sliding door step.  Of course, I'm going to reinforce it properly beneath so it doesn't just crack again. 

 

Anybody know why there are so many vent holes, glands, etc. in this space?   A lot of road noise comes up through here and I'd like to dampen it but don't see the point of applying sound deadener if all these holes and vents serve a functional purpose and need to be left intact.   I suppose I'll just put the dynamat on the new step.