The Roadtrek Nav6 / N6 Active NV Conversions Thread

[Local Apparent Friday]

Sure, no problem.  The only other name brand they might recommend are the gabriel, but the monroe are listed as heavier duty.  Best of luck.

[Local Apparent Friday]

19 hours ago, rvivian said:

Thanks/  I think I'll go to Les Schwab and have them install the Monroes unless they have other recommendations'.

 

Here is the thread where the firestone kit is shown to have been successfully installed on an nv.

[rvivian]

Local RV shop today recommended the same Monroes you recommended.  To be installed on the 18th. 

Thanks again for the help.

[Local Apparent Friday]

No problem, enjoy. 

[rvivian]

Next issue:  Anyone replaced the pop top canvas in their N6?

I'm going to need to do that soon.

[radin2son]

You may want to check VW Vanagan forums. 
 

I doubt Colorado Camper or Sportsmobile would given the difference in design. Unless they sub it out…

 

Best bet is to move to socal. 

[WanderlustAV]

On 5/18/2023 at 1:05 AM, rvivian said:

Next issue:  Anyone replaced the pop top canvas in their N6?

I'm going to need to do that soon.

 

Try local upholstery shops.  I had one replace my ratty bug screens with this much nicer stuff.    They did a pretty ugly job of sewing it and took forever, but it works.

 

Based on that experience I would look around for a more skilled shop that backs up their work for a full replacement.   

 

Or, if the main fabric isn't toast, try cleaning and applying 303 fabric guard.  

[rvivian]

Thanks for this.  It's a good idea.  I guess I'll look for Omar the tent maker.  Didn't think of that.

 

On another note:  how did your battery system work out?  Are you charging the lithium house batteries with the original Triplite or have you changed it out for something else.

 

 

[WanderlustAV]

The Renogy self heating batteries have been working out well overall.   I installed these in the fall as a drop in replacement with no other mods just to see how things went for the Winter.   Long story short- lifepo4 works as a drop in but requires a lot of downstream upgrades if you want to get full functionality.   The existing battery level readouts will not function and the charging profiles won't be quite right as they are designed for FLA/AGM voltages.   If you want full functionality, plan to also replace the Shur Power 1315-200 with a DC to DC charger and the Tripp Lite with a new inverter/charger as well as the control panels. 

 

Alternator charging has been working but with potential limitations.   I didn't install the Renogy bluetooth unit to monitor SOC on initial install.  Instead, I plugged a voltage meter into one on the 12v cig outlets just to get a ballpark.  This is not very accurate when there is any load on the system and also due to the fact that a .5v difference in a lifepo4 SOC is huge compared to FLA/AGM.  Based on the voltage readout the system is charging from the alternator to about 13.2-13.3v or 70-90%  That doesn't seem possible given the spec on some of the charging components but, if that turns out to be accurate, this may not be a bad thing as it could significantly extend the lifepo4 lifespan based on the 80/20 or 90/10 percent rule.  Will be installing the bluetooth unit soon and curious to see the "real" SOC figures. 

 

Shore power was disconnected when I chopped off the running boards and has not been reconnected so stay tuned for Tripp Lite/shore charging info.  My guess is that the Tripp LIte will charge the Renogys with the proper settings but we'll see to what SOC.   

 

[rvivian]

Thanks for the detailed battery system report.  Looking forward to your updates.

 

The 2013 van is too old to do a complete electrical redo in my mind.  I did that on my boat and it took a lot of time work.  That was 10 years ago.  I think I will just replace the existing AGMs, assuming that is what is in the tray.

 

So far no one has been willing to look into the battery tray.  Two RV places have "load tested" in 10 minutes and say I have about 50% to 60% of capacity left but no one really knows the age or actual type of batteries in there.  Or what the condition of the connections is.  Might be the original 6 volt AGM units.  None of the maintenance records I got with the van 3 years ago indicate a battery change-out.  

 

I'm planning on visiting LES Schwab to get the batteries changed out without a lot of drama.

 

I am also planning on adding flexible solar panels on the roof, though.  Have bought the parts; just a haven't gone up there to do the install.

[WanderlustAV]

Agreed, it's a lot of work to put in upgrading the entire system and wire size may limit the inverter size to boot.  I'd much rather build a fresh electrical system myself than try and revamp an existing but, compared to the costs and risks associated with a new van, my horror of owning a Sprinter and the low miles on this very reliable Nissan, the project remains tempting even for a 2012 model. 

 

The battery tray is very straightforward- put a jack under it, unbolt two threaded rods and lower.  Mine had 2x 6v FLA batts wired in series.  They were NAPA batteries and I returned the cores and purchased fresh ones which dropped in great.   Going to 12v in parallel lets you double the amp hours in that tray but, again, you'll need some further upgrades to net the full capacity with the lifepo4.   12v AGM is probably the easy way out of this but the cost will have you considering the lithium, imo.

 

I think flexible solar panels would be ideal on this rig, let us know how that install goes. 

[rvivian]

Thanks for that info.  I'm off to Harbor Freight to buy a 3-ton high lift floor jack.  Then we will see what needs to be done.  Your photos are a big help.

[rvivian]

Just a heads up for those considering new shocks:

 

I've been driving with replacement Monroe shocks recommended here and by my RV mechanic since May 18th and I'm beginning to wonder if our N6 -Actives, particularly mine with two rear mounted boxes need something more heavy-duty.

 

Driving about 5mph out of a Costco the rear bottomed out going over a speed bump.   I installed Super Spring rear bump stop to prevent the bottoming issue.

 

I'm thinking that maybe the original OEM shocks were more heavy duty than the Monroes recommended for NV2500 passenger vans or that Roadtrek installed NV3500 cargo van shocks.

 

Any thoughts?

[AdventureMartens]

Hello friends,

Appreciate y'all keeping this thread alive. Love our N6 - perfect unit for our family with the following goals:  sleeps 5-6, can tow a ski boat, durable engine & chassis, easy to mod. 

 

Purchased our 2012 from Idaho - with the following mods:

- 30amp power moved to the rear

- rear ladder 

- Thule racks mounted into fibreglass pop-top

- Large Dometic refrigerator along the side - adjacent rear seats

- front kids-sized bed (fits perfectly across front bucket seats)

- removable middle bucket seats (1 clip - fast)

Water system wasn't working, nor needed, so removed most components.  

 

Planned mods: 

- Fiamma awning (11'6"')

- Rear drop down kitchen table

- upgrade batteries / possibly Lithium and solar panels

 

Here's the finished results - details below...

 

UPDATE

Finally had some time to get the Fiamma awning & rear fold-down kitchen installed - attaching pics. 

Also upgraded the house batteries to high quality AGM's.  Had considered & researched Lithium, but we're in Canada with tons of cold weather, salt & sand on the roads - plus the wiring challenges discussed on this forum.  Recommend just upgrading to 2 quality 6V AGM's and buying a nice Lithium battery for the interior, that can changed by solar or your alternator.  

6V batteries, plus a Lithium will power you well for 3+ days which is all I'm looking for.  When I need to recharge, or run the microwave, I just idle the van and we're golden.

 

Here are some pics of the rear fold-down kitchen.  Fit perfectly, allowing a clean close on the passenger-side.  Had to add a new handle to allow kids to close from inside - but simple enough.

The key to these projects is the Riv-nut tool.  Do your online research, buy the right bit (9mm metric), rust-proof, silicon, and voila.  

Product installed was the Front Runner (dometic) Drop Down Tailgate Table.  LINK: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/drop-down-tailgate-table-mkiii.html?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3oqoBhAjEiwA_UaLtgLvKk2m1mbTUz38VUkiD0rnYIUnA3vmkV4lJNt7jCMxB3zAfs_wABoCxqwQAvD_BwE

 

 

Installed just above the door latch, allowing me to open from the inside. I preferred it a bit high to prevent young kids from touching the stove anyhow.  Note the new black handle under the wood extension - allowing the door to be pulled closed from the inside.  

 

Now to the awning - which I suspect may help many of you. 

 

Did a ton of research on this and eventually went with the Fiamma F45S - 350 (11'6"), with the VW T4 adapters (2 kits for 4 mounting brackets), plus the Rainguard kit.
Pricey but awesome. Finished product works swimmingly, and opens up a massive living area for the family.  Awning extends enough to fully cover a 6-8 person picnic table (the kind you find in provincial or national parks).  High enough for me to comfortably walk under, at 6'2".  

 

VW T4 kits are designed for the Eurovan (which I've owned) and are the closest thing to match the roofline of our NV. 

I did not want to run the brackets under the pop top - concerned about rain as we're in Vancouver, BC. 

In short - they worked perfectly.  Proper angle, very strong, length allows me to swing open the rear door fully, and the front door fully - with brackets mounted to the side of the van.  

 

Pics below. 

Part #'s: 

 

Installation was surprisingly straight forward.  Used a 12 1x4 to ensure level and mark out the holes.  

Opted to use all 4 mounting brackets as this is a large 

Van side is mostly straight, with the exception being near the front. The front bracket ended up requiring 3 layers of shim to bring it out to match the other 3 mounts.  

 

As mentioned the key is the Riv-Nut tool.  Required stainless steel #6 (9mm drill bit).  Easy to purchase on amazon.  

I found practicing on a few different widths of sheet metal helpful, to get a feel for how hard to push, how carefully to drill, etc, for a strong mount.  

All 4 mounting areas went in well, with no obvious obstructions behind the first layer of metal.  The exception was above the front door, where I was concerned about impacting the side airbags.  We did find the air bag unit (pull back the liner) - and determined that our hole was not near.  Whew.  Had the cut down the length of the bolt, however, to ensure it went in fully.  

 

Other DIY tips.  

Do this with a friend.  I ended up lifting it on my own, but it took some ridiculous physics and balance - which I would not repeat or recommend.  Our older sons are all moved out - and my 5 year old was of no help in this...

Too heavy for my wife to lift - and too impatient to wait for a friend to come by... don't follow my example.

I'd recommend using 4 brackets instead of the minimum 3.  Can't hurt and only help support the heavy awning in the case of wind or driving shear.  

No leaking - and the rain guard does seem to work to keep most of the water from dripping down in front of the sliding & passenger doors.  

Would recommend keeping the rain guard rubber clean and ensuring it doesn't cause water to pool - and end up being forced under the pop-top rubber seal - causing a leak into the van.  Not a concern for most of y'all Americans, but rain is our reality in BC, so there's that.  

Awning has 2 legs - which I opted to install mounts to the side of the van.  Spaced them perfectly, allowing the rear door to function, and the front door to fully open without impacting the legs.  The rear leg has to be unmounted from the van to fully swing the rear door open, but thats a 10-second issue that I'd only use to cook under the awning.  Normally would use the rear kitchen on the rear of the van. I did also purchase a nice light-weight portable sun shield that covers the rear area perfectly (not pictured).  

And speaking of rain - always set the awning up with a slight angle - preventing water from pooling.  These are strong units, but not designed to handle rain like a large tarp.  

 

Recommendations:

I did not purchase the 3rd awning bar that fits in the centre of the awning when fully extended.  I'd recommend this and will probably purchase before next season.  Definitely will help with any moisture & wind. 

Remove the middle seat (if yours has that option) - makes the van soooo much more functional when camping.  Easy to store under the awning (or another tarp) and mounts in 30 seconds.  

 

I've not noticed any sound or anything unusual in the past month of driving with the awning - so happy with that.  

 

Here are a few close-ups of the install to help you in your project.  

 

Any Q's, send my way and I'll try to answer.  Not an expert, but am pleased with how this project came together.  

 

[WanderlustAV]

Nice work @AdventureMartens!

 

Appreciate the write up too.   

[radin2son]

Well done and great write up. 

[Trat73]

Helo everyone. New 2013 N6 owner here. I'm loving it so far but have an issue with the tpms. This has the Roadtrek optional 20" wheels and tires, which had different max psi ratings than the stock NV2500 tires. So the computer thinks the rear tires should be at 80 psi when they should only be at 50 psi max, and this triggers the dash warning light. The tpms is transmitting the pressure correctly (the dash alert says rear tires at 50 psi) so they're okay. I'm thinking the computer needs to be told the new info? My local Nissan dealer didn't have an answer. Has anyone else had this issue? 

Thanks! I'm excited to be part of the N6 Active community. 

[AdventureMartens]

Hey Trat73 - welcome to the humble club. 

I also have the aftermarket 20" tires and have had similar issues with the TPMS system. The sensors are fickle - so ensure they're all sending properly. 1 of mine was broken, another intermittent.

I think the PSI's posted on the frame (inside drivers door) are accurate and how the TPMS is calibrated.  Once my tire repair shop adjusted the PSI (rear up to 80) the system has worked swimmingly.  

If your rear tires aren't able to handle the higher PSI then the Nissan dealership should be able to reprogram the TPMS system.  Not sure why they said no - if not them, then who?

 

One other related tire issue.  My 20" aftermarkets had some kind of unusual lug nuts - required apparently due to the fitment of the larger tires on the stock bolts.  The new ones were not designed to handle stock tightening pressure - so when I had the tires serviced (to repair my aforementioned TPMS system), they ended up cracking 3 of the 6 nuts.  No outward signs but after 2 weeks of driving, my rear tires suddenly came loose.  Nearly flew off the vehicle entirely!  Super sketchy.  

Tire repair wouldn't take responsibility - and I wasn't the original owner who installed the aftermarkets, so I was hooped. 

Ended up paying $1k to have all 4 rims drilled out to accommodate the original lug nuts - which are much stronger than what I had one.  Your tire shop will know who offers this service - it's rare but usually one shop does this kind of specialty work in every city.  

Hope you don't have this experience - but glad it's resolved.  Better than buying 4 new rims...

 

cheers y'all

 

[Trat73]

Thanks for the info. My local Nissan was not only unhelpful, but argued with me about the tpms without even looking at it. My rear tires are 51 psi max. Does anyone with the 20” rims have tires with 80psi max? There’s no way they sold this brand new with the tire pressure light on, so there has to be a way to remedy the situation. Just trying to gather as much info as I can before I go to the next dealer/mechanic. Also, where the heck is the jack and tools for the spare?

Thanks again!

[radin2son]

OEM tpms are vehicle specific, so probably not reprogrammable for aftermarket rims and tires. 
 

Pre-programmable or programmable tpms (EZ-sensor from Schader tpms Solutions, Europe) may be a possible solution.

 

schadertpms.com

 

Difficult site to navigate. Ignore “Car” and plug in 2021, Nissan and model. This will pull up NVs.  

Edited November 19, 2023 by radin2son

[Trat73]

Thanks rad, I will look at that. I also just noticed the Roadtrek door sticker shows 50 psi for front and back but the kpa equivalent is different. It converts to 50 in the front 80 in the back. Roadtrek misprint might be the culprit. They do make tires in this size with an E load rating with 80 psi max. Hmmm. 

 

Edited November 20, 2023 by Trat73

[WanderlustAV]

Mine has the same rims as AdventureMartens and it's 50psi front, 80 psi rear.   I run K02s in Summer, Blizzaks in Winter.

 

Once you bring them up to those pressures and/or go through the TPMS reset if needed (hope you don't, it's kind of a drag to do) you'll have a bit of wiggle room before the TPMS warning light illuminates.  

 

Mine seems to come on below 70psi.  My N6 is actually built on a 3500HD so 80 psi in the rear + 3500HD suspension is wayyy to stiff.   I like the front at 50 and the rear at at about 65 for normal driving (still too stiff imo), a bit lower on the rears if on dirt for a long time. 

 

 

[radin2son]

Most likely, this already was posted. MotorTrend did a review on 10/10/2012. Some useful info. 
 

Travel and Adventure: The N6-Active…
 

 

[2manybikes]

Getting my n6 shipped to me this week. 

 

What is the story with the rear AC/Heat?   Is it just from the vent behind the microwave?

 

Also, the one I'm getting has brown particle board looking lids over the sink, cooler.    Several I'm seen look padded with gray vinyl.    Also mine doesn't have the shower outlet and the plastic on the floor behind the rear bench is black.    Lastly, mine doesn't have the black body moldings and it has chrome running boards.  Can someone clarify what the evolution was?

[WanderlustAV]

Rear ac/heat is just that one vent I believe.  

 

I supposedly have #0, was the build used to sell the model, and it has the grey vinyl and black running boards.  Yours is probably a later model, what year chassis?   It'll be hard to figure out the evolution of this rig since Roadtrek was apparently going under while building it, few were made and Roadtrek didn't record anything about them. 

 

The shower/hose on mine only connected to city/shore water as far as I could tell. Maybe Roadtrek realized how useless this was and cut it out of the later models?

 

Chrome runners have got to be better than the black trim.  None of my black trim/running boards was installed proper.

 

Where's the shore power located on the N6s with the chrome runners?