2012 NV with class 4 hitch but no tow mode

[Fred Fauth]

Folks, I just bought a 2012 NV SL that was advertised with tow package and has a class 4 hitch... But it has no tow mode button and it appears to not actually have whatever would normally come with the tow package. Will I still be able to tow at the van's max limits...

 

Worried...

[Fred Fauth]

Also, now I'm wondering if this is just the accessory class 3 hitch or not. It appears to be a very large hitch bolted to the frame in quite a few spots. Is this the accessory hitch?

[Fred Fauth]

And if it is the accessory hitch, can it be upgraded...

[radin2son]

The tow package in 2012 V8s was an option ($460), unlike more recent years when it was included. Assuming you can add on or modify what is on your NV, you will not be able to exactly replicate the "tow mode" button. Downshifting with the shift toggle should work.

 

The tow package also included extendable side mirrors, front tow hooks, heavy duty battery and pre-wiring. I think someone had to replace a side mirror at $400+, so this could get expensive.

 

Depending on what others say, if you bought it from a dealer, you may be able to take it back.

[Fred Fauth]

The tow package in 2012 V8s was an option ($460), unlike more recent years when it was included. Assuming you can add on or modify what is on your NV, you will not be able to exactly replicate the "tow mode" button. Downshifting with the shift toggle should work.

 

The tow package also included extendable side mirrors, front tow hooks, heavy duty battery and pre-wiring. I think someone had to replace a side mirror at $400+, so this could get expensive.

 

Depending on what others say, if you bought it from a dealer, you may be able to take it back.

 

Unfortunately, I bought it private party. The guy (who I believe to be very honest) marketed it with the tow package. I saw the big hitch on the back mounted to the frame and assumed that it had the tow package.

 

Now I am realizing it has the accessory hitch which is only rated for 6,200 lbs instead of 8,700 lbs. This won't work for us and I am kicking myself. I got a "fair" deal on this car (paid the KBB "very good" private party price - the car is in great condition and only has 18,500 miles).

 

I haven't titled it in my name yet, because the loan company has yet to send me the title. 

 

I think for others, this van would really meet their needs. But where we want to haul a heavy trailer, I actually think we need the tow package.

 

I'm also seeing that the transmission is slightly different with the tow package - so I'm thinking that that may factor into the hauling ability.

 

So frustrated with myself - although I don't know why I should be - made the best decision with the information I knew at the time - really researched it - and just didn't think to assume that this big hitch could be the "accessory" hitch instead of the "tow package".  

 

For $460 I can see why they just added it to the SL in future years...

 

.....

 

UGH.

[radin2son]

Wait to see what the "towers" solution is...

 

After all, people for years towed without benefit of packages, just horsepower. I like the old photos of caravans of stationwagons pulling Airstream trailers around the world.

[Jerry]

x

Edited July 28, 2015 by Jerry

[Fred Fauth]

Jerry, do I need to worry about not having the tow package? I have a connector back there.

[ASD Dad]

Do all the V8's come with the big aux coolers mounted in front of the radiator like the transmission cooler?  

 

I am not sure about the actual transmission - but you need a Class IV hitch, you need a way to see behind you (add on tow mirrors or factory), you need the 7 pin (which you have), you need a brake controller wired in (need to see if the factory pigtail is down by the emergency brake - it's a good sized, white connector that is taped up) and you need to keep the engine and tranny cool.

 

The shift points you can do in manual mode.  Tow mode just holds onto gears longer and will downshift when breaking going downhill.  I do not know if it can actually change torque converter lock up points or things like that.

 

How much weight do you think you will be towing?  Camper, boar or some other trailer?  How far will the trips be?  Flat terrain or hilly?

 

Radinson is right - back in the day you'd see a Chevy full size wagon pulling a good sized Airstream.  That full size wagon was a framed body with probably a small block V8 under it but it still had nowhere near the tech or strength of a modern vehicle.  

[Fred Fauth]

Planning to tow a large trailer 6500 lbs dry probably closer to 7750 fully loaded. I guess I am specifically trying to figure out what the "tow package" adds to the vehicle and whether this can be safely replicated after market to make my nv passenger able to tow to the vehicle's maximum capacity of 8700 lbs.

[radin2son]

All V8s come standard with the needed cooling. I think Nissan did this for city driving, heavy loads, high temps and full on AC.

 

In 2012, the "tow mode" option comes with the same 5 speed transmission, but different, that is electronic or computer "components" not found in 2012 NVs without the option.

 

My questions are: Does the NV design, V8 and tow hitch/weight distribution etc. trump (non-political, lower case t) tow mode? Can you tow just as much/well manually?

 

It won't be inexpensive to set up your NV correctly. Add towing/driving skills and I would guess your 2012 NVP SL will work out fine.

Edited July 29, 2015 by radin2son

[Fred Fauth]

I am finding that at least one thing the tow mode button does is simply shift the transmission shift points. I am now thinking maybe there is the same transmission in both and that the difference with the tow package is primarily the class 4 hitch...

 

Other than my guess about the transmission do you have other information that the transmission is actually different?

 

I am trying to get a definitive list on what needs to be changed to make this work. The 2012 SL does allow for manual gear selection. I would be willing to use this with towing if needed. I'm mostly trying to decide whether I should sell this one and buy one with tow mode, or whether I can get the wiring and hitch and whatnot done to this and otherwise be ready...

[Jerry]

x

Edited July 28, 2015 by Jerry

[radin2son]

The transmission is the same, but when you push the tow mode button, "Grade Logic" adjusts automatic transmission shifts when pulling a trailer or hauling a load up grade. "Downhill Speed Control" automatically downshifts when driving down a grade with a trailer or heavy load to help control vehicle speed. Source: 2012 owner's manual.

 

No need to sell your NV...

[mahu]

Unrelated question: They already offered the "SL" trim level on 2012 models? I thought the SL was started for 2015 models only and before the option was "S" or "SL"?

[Fred Fauth]

Unrelated question: They already offered the "SL" trim level on 2012 models? I thought the SL was started for 2015 models only and before the option was "S" or "SL"?

 

Yeah the 2012 had the SL trim level. It looks like we may be OK but need to be extra careful when RV'ing because we won't have the benefit of the "tow mode" feature when going up and down grades -- that means we may have to do some manual shifting when driving over the mountains.

[radin2son]

Definitely use the manual shift when you know you will not be using 5th gear. Experiment with this now. Just check your speed and tach. Push the button at the end of the shift lever and it goes into 4th, no fuss or bother. Manually shift it into 3rd with too much speed, you will feel it shift with a slight clunk and jerk.

 

No problems up shifting when ever you want or pushing the button to reactivate 5th gear. This is a great feature.

[Fred Fauth]

So I've spent a lot of time tonight reading the owner's manual. It's hard for me to figure out why the "non-tow-package" trailers are limited to 6,200 lbs, and I'm wondering if that all gets back to whether the trailer has "tow mode" or not. 

 

On page 9-22: "Your vehicle may be equipped with Class IV trailer hitch equipment that has a 10,000 lb. maximum weight rating, but your vehicle is only capable of towing the maximum trailer weights shown in the "Towing Load/Specification" chart earlier in this section." 

 

This suggests that even with a Class IV hitch, at least Nissan thinks that without the Tow Package, you can't go up to 8,700 lbs. 

 

Then in another place, it says this:

 

"If your vehicle is not equipped with the optional trailer tow package, check the towing capacity of your bumper hitch or receiver-type frame mounted hitch. Choose a proper hitch for your vehicle and trailer. A genuine NISSAN trailer hitch is available from your NISSAN dealer. Make sure the trailer hitch is securely attached to the vehicle to help avoid personal injury or property damage due to sway caused by crosswinds, rough road surfaces or passing trucks."

 

Which implies you can perhaps "adjust" your truck's towing capacity based on which hitch equipment you buy. 

 

But I'm coming down to the idea that if you don't have the "tow package" and therefore don't have the "tow mode" switch, NISSAN at least doesn't think you can tow up to the 8,700 lbs. They want you to be limited to only 6,200 lbs.

 

I cannot find anything definitive on what the "tow package" actually includes over and above the Class IV hitch and requisite wiring - like a word-for-word description of what changes it makes. I think it probably is just the "tow mode" button and associated "transmission management" that the "tow mode" performs.

 

So frustrating. I guess this is my initiation into trying to get ready for RV'in. I'm 35 years old and want to get into RV'ing, but it seems that my very first endeavor I have made a mistake. So frustrating.

[ASD Dad]

Want to know the exact weight you can tow?  Go weigh the van.  It really is that simple, you need to load the van as close as you can get it to "camping weight" and then go find a scale somewhere - CAT is the easiest and they have a locator on their website - but you can also find scales at rock yards, farm supplies, and some states dont mind if you use their highway scales when they are closed or not busy.  I just use a CAT scale.  

 

This details everything quite well - http://www.learntorv.com/p/what-can-i-tow.html

[ASD Dad]

I think you will be fine, setting your truck up to tow with oem and aftermarket parts. My V6 has all the coolers, already factory installed. The brake controller wiring is where ASD said it was, but you're probably missing the pigtail to the controller. Unless the previous owner had one installed.

 

ASD, and several other people have all gone through the hoops of towing with the NV. The best thing to do is your homework, and ask questions. If this is your first time pulling a trailer, it's not that big of a deal, just do your research and set the van up right.

 

My personal opinion is, I would not haul the weights that these guys are pulling. The NV as a chassis is excellent the wheelbase at 146 is ok.

The power plant not so good, maybe flat landing is fine. Find yourself on grade and you will be standing on the go pedal and trying to push it thru the floor.

 

I've been camping/RVing for some time now. My most recent trailer is a Sunnybrook 30FKS weighing in at 11k. Tow vehicle F350 diesel CC 8' bed.

 

2son, I do remember the days, of hooking up whatever it was to whatever vehicle and haul it... I once had an 85 Chevy Cavalier with a 20ft boat attached, friends would have to sit on the hood over the front wheel drive to keep the wheels from spinning at the boat ramp.

 

I would agree to a point about towing weights.  I wouldnt go any higher than what I am pulling (around 7600# estimated on the high side) along with a full van.  The chassis handles the weight just fine, the tires and axles can more than handle the weight as well.  The motor is just a wee bit under-powered!  Of course years ago this would be a super stout motor and you just got along with things the best you could.  I still dont understand how these others are pulling over 8000# easily up grades.  My van wont do it as it sits and I hope that adding the tuner will help a little.

 

Does that mean that everybody should be pulling a camper with a big diesel?  I dont think so.  If you go somewhere like RV.NET and browse the towing section it gets a little ridiculous at times.  Pretty soon they start recommending a F450 for a pop-up!  OK, maybe not that bad but close...  

 

Jerry's rig at 11,000# is definitely into 3/4 and 1 Ton territory.  I am sure the new alum F150 Max Tow with Max Payload package "could" pull it but it may not be pleasant.  

 

They say for the most comfortable towing experience to stick to around 15-20% of your max capacity.  That gives you plenty of overhead.  With the Nissan NVP the limiting factor is the motor.  With my old Tundra it was the chassis.  There were guys hauling big 5'ers with the Tundra because the motor would pull the weight easily.  They were also overloading their rear axles and frame...

 

If you go by the 15% rule of 8700# in tow capacity you should look for a camper in the 6400# range empty.  Most people add up to 1000# of "stuff" when camping and it just adds up over time.  My Toy Hauler was 6404# empty and loaded for camping it does great on the flats but hates hills.

[Fred Fauth]

We have found several models in the 6500# dry range that will work for us...

 

UPDATE ON THE "TOW MODE" BEING ADDED AFTERMARKET: I have calls into several dealerships to see if the Tow Mode feature can be added on -- if it can, and that's the only real difference with the tow package other than the mirrors and hitch, it would appear we will be good to go.

 

I'm hopeful that the tow mode switch is simply wired into the computer and that they can either flash the programming on the computer or something similar to make this work.

[Fred Fauth]

UPDATE: Both dealerships have told me that the tow mode capability cannot be added to the 2012 NV ... 

[radin2son]

Fred, Based on your earlier posts, you need the NV first for family use and second to tow an RV. The latter, I believe is a new direction for your family. You may love, tolerate or hate RVing. ASD Dad brought up the "pop-up" which is easy to tow and set up, but not as comfortable and spacious as what he had and now has. We see plenty of pop-ups in campgrounds. You could also consider a used RV on the small side then upgrade to a bigger one as needed. There has to be a good used inventory...

 

ASD Dad previously mentioned towing his RV 4 to 5 times a year. Using his last trip mileage, that means 4 to 5k a year. You trip west will cover about the same mileage, but may eat up all vacation time unless you have summers off. If you are able to do other trips they would probably be closer to home. So, is it worth selling your NV?

 

Having said this, it all comes down to your comfort level both in terms of extended warranty (the 3 year expiration date is approaching unless the previous owner had a transferable extended warranty or you buy one) and your need for tow mode.

[ASD Dad]

I'd PM Chris or another dealership rep here and see if they cant shed some light on the whole "tow mode" issue.  I'd be curious what all parts are different.

 

radin2son - he lists a family of 7, they're not fitting in a Pop Up!  We had one and it worked well for two, even three.  Add in kid #2 and we moved up to a trailer.  I have seen large families in tents as well or even multiple tents but I assume they want a nice camper.

 

Fred - look up my old camper - Forest River Surveyor Sport 295 or its twin the 294.  The 295 has triple bunks in the back, a large (queen sized almost) dinette/bed area and a fold out couch/bed that is really only good for a kid around 7 or younger at most.  Queen bed up front for you and the wife.  The 295 has 3 bunks with a full outside kitchen - stove, sink and a dorm sized fridge.  The 294 had 4 bunks out back and no kitchen outside.

 

I mention those two since they were the lightest bunkhouses we found and we looked a long time - mine only weighed in at 5500# dry from the factory.  They both have a small slide for the inside kitchen and sofa area.

 

My only cautions are two fold - 1) for a first camper they are long at about 33 feet with the tongue.  2) the stock tires are horrible and they are only 14" so it makes it hard to find good replacements.  Other than that it worked out well for us.

 

Your other light weight option would be something like a Roo Hybrid.  The largest have 3 flip out beds but that could be snug and they really arent all that much lighter than an ultralight bunkhouse.  

[radin2son]

The pop up would really test the love, tolerate, or hate aspect of RVing. And these can happen on the same trip, but then there is selective memory and the next trip...