Relevant notes / photos for MBNS 3.0

[nihil_perditi]

Hello!  

 

Figure I might share what I am doing to my Nissan NV as many others have done with their conversions in the hopes that others might find this information useful.  Regarding my van - I am trying - like many others - to make a compact shelter that is relatively mobile - hence its name ' "Mobile Basic Needs Shelter" or MBNS for short.  3.0 indicates this is my third major prototype (vehicle) and if you haven't guessed it already I'm a bit of a nerd!  While I hope to address "basic needs" with the shelter - I will also be aiming for additional comforts and we will see how close I hit the mark with respect to both "wants" and "needs"  :lol:

 

For starters I can share info regarding some accessories I purchased I can recommend.  Unable to find much info online, I purchased the Carhartt covercraft seat covers which I have had for a few months now.  I am very happy with how they fit the seats and how they feel when I am sitting in them.  I wanted seat covers that could be washable and found mixed reviews online regarding the coverking offerings.  I also purchased the covercraft sun shade which I am happy with - fits the windshield well.  Laharview inspired me to install a cr laurence t-vent window for the sliding door - I will post photos of that later.  

 

Thanks for looking

 

 

[laharview]

Nice. Looking forward to photos as you progress.

[laharview]

Nice. Looking forward to photos as you progress.

[Great White]

I like the seat covers. I have been considering some. How much were they? They seem to fit well.

[Chris_CommercialManager]

that's a very nice looking sun shade!

[nihil_perditi]

The covercraft seat covers were $245 (before shipping and taxes) & the sun shade was $62 - I believe covercraft also sells a sleeve for the sunshade for about $5 which in hindsight I wish I would have bought just to help protect it when not in use - it does not come with any sort of elastic band or wrap built into the shade for storage.  

[wollip]

Very nice additions to your ride. Keep us posted as you do more projects.

[nihil_perditi]

I had wondered sometime what solution I would utilize for roof top ventilation not being too crazy with the fantastic fan / maxx air options out there.  Wanting something with the lowest profile as possible - to allow for maximum solar panel install on the roof (should I wish) left me doing some research for a few months regarding the best solution.  I even went so far as to build a small lego prototype and met with a machinist to look into having something custom made.  After meeting with the machinist leaving with sticker shock for the estimate he provided and seeing a product designed for boats that my friend that sails recommended - I decided to go with the boat hatch figuring it should work on the van and hope for the best.  This is a very large pilot hatch (largest that lewmar offers), aluminum frame with a very low profile.  In my opinion - it is aesthetically pleasing but will also provide the utility I am looking for in terms of ventilation & light.  It was a little nerve wracking cutting such a large hole in the roof (first time to attempt such a feat) but I think I have successfully pulled off the installation so I can confirm this can be installed in a van.  Really opens up the space and if I had to go back and do it over again I would have installed the same exact design.  Over time I will design a bug screen, reflectix cover and 12V fan to blow air out (or in) when needed.  I will share those designs once I have figured them out.  I am happy to share any details regarding install - feel free to ask.  I can say that given the large size of the hatch and the left to right and fore and aft curvature of the roof, to get a secure install without too much distortion to the roof or frame I used stainless steel washers of various amounts for each screw.  I think that was the best no frills solution to that problem but of course time will ultimately tell!    

[nihil_perditi]

I am cautiously optimistic that I will be able to make some worthwhile progress on my build this summer - and here is a photo previewing one of my next projects - installing a tembo tusk fridge slide for my national luna fridge.  Since it will be a while before I have solar and my lithium ion battery bank set up, and given the weight of the fridge and the fact that I am utilizing it as a bedroom fridge in the mean time (it can run off 12V DC or 120 AC), a friend suggested I build out of cardboard a to model scale of the fridge on the slide to better visualize where to bolt it down.  

[radin2son]

We must have been in a cellular dead zone; missed your first and subsequent build posts. It is not a surprise that nautical bits show up in camper van builds.

 

Do you really need a fan to move air out? That is a huge opening... The CR Laurence windows let a lot of air in.

 

My wife and I just finished cutting reflectix panels to cover all our windows, not counting the rear windows, windshield, and cab windows. We bought a 10' roll for $27 ($4 a ft if you need less) a 50 yard roll of 2" metal duct tape and Velcro. The problem is these panels take up space when not needed and we don't know how many we will need on a given trip. We'll find out this week on what could be a very hot trip, with little shade and no potable water if there is any water at all.

 

How do you plan to use your NV?

[nihil_perditi]

radin2son you raise a good point - a fan might not be needed - opening is approx 2x3 feet - Size 78 pilot hatch http://www.lewmar.com/node/11225

 

I will have to take some trips as R&D without a fan and see if I think air movement without a fan is enough - like you said the CR Laurence window with the vent seems to be shaping up to be a nice combo.  

 

Regarding how I plan to utilize the NV - right now I am envisioning it as a "fair weather" camping vehicle of sorts - currently not planning to be camping in it in very hot or cold areas, but as I make progress on the build and I start to use it more that goal might change.  

 

I made some reflectix window covers for the rear windows with magnets that I am pretty happy with, I need to upload a photo to share.  Agree that they can be cumbersome to store when not in use  

[Thomas New]

Man cutting that large a hole took some nerve. LOL. I would be to nervous for that. I am also turning mine into a kinda camper bug out van. I haven't got to the ventilation yet. I plan to use a fantastic fan is all.  

[wollip]

I applaud your go-to-it enthusiasm. You knew what you wanted and sourced exactly what you needed to accomplish your vision.

Boat parts are not cheap. In fact, their high price tag nearly always reflects their high quality.

 

Having said that, I shudder when I look at the severed rib in your roof and the location of that rib. I slept on this reaction before commenting - not wanting to be negative without cause. But I have a nagging feeling that you need to take steps to stabilize this cut while you still have the ceiling open.

 

My concern is for your sliding door mechanism over time.

 

If this was a cargo container sitting in your backyard, I wouldn't worry about it. But it isn't that at all. This is a moving vehicle subject to vibrations, potholes, uneven road surfaces (twisting), etc. I am afraid that all of that is setting you up for some form of failure later. A major structural component has been severed and there is now only sheet metal - the roof panel- holding it all together in that area.

 

I hope I am wrong about this but it would worry me until I did the following.

I would have a tubular steel cage (flat rectangle) fabricated and welded into place on the two exposed ends of the severed rib. I think you could use Sitka caulking to bond the metal roof to the cage after it is installed. I would do this to lessen the chance of the metal roof failing in the corners of the cut (due to flexing over a period of time).

 

It is obvious you have the skills to hide this "bracing" as you install the finished ceiling at some point. I'm guessing that the finished ceiling opening will also secure the frame for the insect screen that you build.

 

Anyway, give this some reflection time and I also hope others on the forum will give their opinion.

 

Keep up the good work and many thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing your other ideas.

[nihil_perditi]

Hi wollip, thanks for your concern.  I knew that cutting through one of the ribs would compromise some of the structural integrity, to what extent I was not sure.  Currently I am not noticing any extreme lack of rigidity in that area and while it is not as strong as the original steel the aluminum frame does provide some structure.  I will need to do some more research and consider your suggestion regarding reinforcements.  Thanks!  

[radin2son]

Our NV SMB has without question the largest hole in the roof, from the back of the cab almost to the rear doors. SMB has been building these pop tops for 50 years on a variety of chassis with barn doors and sliders; no known problems noted on the SMB forum. SMB does this by installing steel (?) flat beams (1/4" X 4" +\-)* on both sides, front to aft. No cross support.

 

The beam really cuts into the interior stand up room on the passenger side, and we have both hit our backs and heads when entering the van. It also is a high step up due the sub floor. The grab handle gets heavy use... The driver's side has the cabinets, so beam is not as noticeable.

 

*I was wrong about the width of the support beam; it is all upholstered. It's 4" not 12"". In addition to this, there is a steel channel bolted or welded to this beam where the spring tension pop top mechanism resides.

Edited May 30, 2016 by radin2son

[KMG]

Wollip has said exactly what I believe is an issue with the large hole with out proper support.

Glad to see you rounded the cuts in the corners.  A lot less lilely to tear from flexing compared to a 90 degree corner cut.

Also for anyone  else planning a cut in their roof, try to not cut the slanted section of the high roof.  The seam is prone to leakage in stock form.  Good luck and thanks for sharing your project.  KMG

Edited May 31, 2016 by KMG

[nihil_perditi]

radin2son - good to know, I will reach out to sportsmobile and see if they can opine on my pilot hatch. 

 

KMG - I will monitor that seam closely - thanks for sharing.  

[radin2son]

nihil_perditi, SMB installs pop tops on low roof chassis perhaps because these are inherently more rigid than high roof vans.

 

You also may want to pm Jon Nelson, as he had a pop top installed by another company on his high top NV several years ago. The company name may be somewhere on this forum.

[nihil_perditi]

Haven't posted an update in a while and that's partially because I haven't had much time to work on the conversion!  First time to work with 80/20 extruded aluminum and I can say that I really enjoy building with it.  Still tinkering with lots of things so not much more can be shared but an image of what part of the interior looks like (at least for now).  Hopefully I can post again with a meaningful update before the end of 2016!! 

 

 

[nihil_perditi]

Bench to bed conversion - not pictured are the foam pieces I have cut out for the bed.  Hope you can see the movie.  Almost ready to design the roof rack for the solar panels!  

IMG_4767.MOV

[nihil_perditi]

Some other updates (__of __): I am really enjoying working with 80/20!  That is a "starrett" tap wrench - expensive but a beauty.  

Edited November 29, 2016 by nihil_perditi

[nihil_perditi]

Some other updates (__of __): Here is a photo to get a sense of the bench/bed construction.  Currently planning to have electrical components inside driver side bench and water/plumbing will be housed on passenger side.  

Edited November 29, 2016 by nihil_perditi

[nihil_perditi]

Some other updates (__of __):  Bed dimensions are atypical - almost as wide as a king but very short - length was limited as I built this around the requirements for the fridge module which was installed first.  I don't mind the short length - which I believe is right around 6'2" (for reference, I am right under 6'2")  Sleeping at somewhat of an angle and/or with feet off at times works well for me.   I could have made a portion of it longer but for now I am content with size.  And yes it was someone's birthday when I took the photo (not mine).  

Edited November 29, 2016 by nihil_perditi

[nihil_perditi]

Some other updates (__of __): Still trying to figure out dimensions of sink module - here is a photo of a box I built to approximate sizing.  Probably won't get to look at this in earnest for at least the next three months.  I don't want to take up too much floor space but at the same time I don't want a sink so small that it is more of a novelty than a utilitarian addition.  

Edited November 29, 2016 by nihil_perditi

[nihil_perditi]

Some other updates (__of __): Pictured here is the "kitchen" module.  I learned how to work with 80/20 and build basic cabinetry while building this module.  So if you look really carefully you can see some of my mistakes.  It is built around the national luna fridge which sits on a tembo tusk fridge slide - pictured it is in the out position.  I designed the drawer section around fitting a two burner alcohol stove in the upper right drawer.  I used southco flush hatches that lock shut and would easily use them again.  I wanted the counter to be free of a permanently installed range because I wanted to make that horizontal surface multi purpose.  Is the fridge too big for such a build?  Will the slide prove inconvenient or difficult to use once the sink module is installed?  We shall see.