ASD Dad

It's been done by just the one guy that we know of and he popped his transmission requiring a full rebuild. The issue was tuning and was supposedly fixed with a custom UpRev tune. Regardless you need a custom tune from UpRev just to install it. He also still gets error codes that need cleared. So it works, but it is definitely not just plug and play like a Titan/Armada.

You cant estimate the weight with one trip on the scales, you need 3 passes (the extra passes should only be $5 or so if using CAT scales). One pass - all gear and hooked up like going camping One pass - camper hooked up but WD bars DISCONNECTED One pass - Van by itself Do all 3 and you'll have proper scale weights for van axles, how much weight was removed with tongue and then transferred back with the WD setup, tongue weight and camper weight. Here is a short link to read more - http://rvbasics.com/techtips/weighing-your-rv.html

Yes, you can tow that. You MUST have a WD Hitch. Not sure why Chris is just "suggesting" one. Most hitches require one over 500lbs of tongue weight for one big reason. You'll also be pushing the tongue weight max once that camper is loaded with gear for a large family. Most people add 1000 lbs of gear (dont laugh, it is very easy to do and many go over that). Dry - 5800 lbs Add propane (sits on tongue) Add gear I'd guess you'll be at 7000 lbs loaded min Tongue should be 11-15% - 770 lbs up to 1000 lbs Our camper is similar in weight and it tows well. Our old camper was even heavier and towed fine. There are some on here with even heavier campers still but they're starting to push the spec limits. BTW - get a decent WD hitch. There is nothing wrong with the cheap ones they toss in most of the time but a good one will be easier to hook up, have less setup issues and normally tow better. If you're not going to camp often the cheap EZ Lift, Camco and similar will be just fine. If you plan on camping a lot, towing far or towing long term go ahead and invest in a Blue Ox, Reese, Equal-i-zer, etc.

Airaid has by far the best dyno results. The others were more for sound and looks and didnt flow much better than the modded stock box. I sent my Airaid back, I had it on for 2 weeks with a long tow during that time and that was more than enough to make us want to take it off! Even with my Tundra I found that mods that sounded or looked great in day to day driving dont work that well when towing and we tow a lot lately. At least 4-5 trips a year and several trips are over 10 hours on the road. Things like sort exhausts, intakes and suspension mods made my truck fun day to day but rather annoying or hard to setup right when towing. The BD GT I still cant recommend enough and there are a few others on here that also love it now that they tried it. Totally transforms how the NV drives. The single biggest improvement made is the elimination of that stupid WOT restriction from a standing start. Up until around 20-25mph the computer will not let the throttle open 100%. While OK while driving, when towing it is a huge pain and a wee bit dangerous. Trying to pull out of something like a gas station into moving traffic I want 100% throttle to get my rig moving. I dont want it just poking along lazily until the ECU decides it will let the throttle open up. I want my foot to decide!

You're in Charlotte, go see Chris at Scott Clark Nissan, he is on here as Chris Commercial. I live down in Greenville SC and see a ton of Clark Nissan NV Cargos as fleet vehicles so the price has to be good vs. our local dealer. Most are only getting a couple thousand off sticker. I want to say I paid $36K for our 2015 NVP SL and that was shopping around everywhere within 2-3 hours of us (Greenville, ATL, Charlotte, Columbia and Asheville). My local dealer matched the lowest offer I had from ATL so we went with them.

Look how long it took Nissan to change the Titan! I dont think we'll see any changes anytime soon. They're still trying to churn these out as it sits.

Thats pretty cool info! Thanks

Take it to a trusted body shop and have them give it a full inspection, even if it costs you money so you can get a written report of any issues. My Van paint has been good from what I can tell but I havent waxed the beast yet. I still think the front bumpers fit weird with the opening gap towards the wheel well but I have seen that on many NV's. I have one tow hook that is totally oxidized already while the other is shiny. Reason I mentioned the body shop - we owned a Toyota Highlander that was in a wreck brand new and never disclosed. The front left fender was replaced and repainted and there was fixed damage underneath the vehicle. We had owned the vehicle a while by then so couldnt prove we did not do the damage. I found both while washing the car one day, it was obvious work but it was fixed well enough to not be seen by a casual once over. Plus it is brand new you dont expect that! We bought that SUV with 15 miles on it. Also - our last camper was brand new and in an accident during transit to our dealer and not disclosed at closing. The rear corner had been repaired like he clipped something while delivering it (easily done, I did it myself once!). I had found that quickly and we had to threaten our dealer with legal action to get it resolved. We ended up taking a very nice discount on the camper since the repair was done well and not visible unless you crawled under it. Lastly - it could very well be from the factory that way. There have been many many paint defects from other companies brand new. Years ago I owned one of the GM Tahoe's that had the bad primer steel so paint would just flake off in huge sheets! That affected a ton of GM's. I would still fight the dealer to get it fixed either way. The clear run could be wet sanded out fairly easily. The debris under the clear would need wet sanded out and then reshot with clear and wet sanded again to blend.

The rear of the Side Rail is also sloped like the front. The rear of the Double Loop is more vertical. Not sure why they consider the latter more aero looking, they are both wedge fronts. Great racks, long build times and high shipping due to crate size. Saw two in person (none on a NV, they were on custom Ford E series 4x4 conversions). They are pricey but have a very nice fit and finish.

Congrats on the NV! I like that color a lot. We looked for one for a couple weeks but none were remotely close to us. We actually went in to buy the blue color but didnt like it as much in person. Ended up with plain old silver but it has been nice to keep clean and it's cooler in the SC sun!

Nice camper. I did full write ups on here with the Airaid, modded stock intake and BD GT tuner on this site if you want some info. Love your wheels and tires. I almost swapped mine out but ended up just getting bigger tires on the stock rims (265/70 AT's). Please post reviews of your mods as you go along. Curious what you do for exhaust and intake. The Airaid was great but way too loud for us and the kids when towing. Even just at a steady state when towing it sounded like a boat motor! When not towing it gave it a very nice growl and was just fine day to day.

I need to try this just out of curiosity. Where did you learn it? Is it in our manual??

That bugs me - when people come in with problems, we make suggestions and then "poof" they are gone! I'd like to know if 1) they got fixed 2) what was the problem! There have been several threads like that lately. I followed up on one (the rack noise) and it was fixed. Let people know! If somebody searches they will find the problem but not the solution so will ask again. Really though - I dont see enough NV's out there still. I see a LOT more commercial NV's but they are all fleet vans. They certainly could care less about the forum. I see very few private commercial owners. Even fewer still NVP owners but they are slowly popping up. I still think most owners could care less about a forum or even know it exists if they have no problems. It wont be until they have a problem or they decide "hey, some new tires would be nice - what fits?" that they may find us hiding in the dark corner of the internet.

Welcome to the forum!

Go get the code pulled for free at any autoparts store and see what the CEL is for. Takes minutes and costs nothing vs. hoping it goes away. Could be anything from a vacuum leak to something worse. I've never used seafoam on a modern car engine. Used it forever on small engines or boat engines.

Welcome! Funny seeing it towing the Pilot! Why didnt you just drive it in?

Quick shots

Awesome! I had the two hooked bungees as well until I did the rope. It's nice to have extra bungees available up there but make sure to check them if you do use them. Being out in the sun, water and elements breaks down the elastic quickly. Dock rope that I used is made to be in the sun and wet constantly without breaking down. That rope trick is very old. Ever since Yakima got big people wanted to know how to stop the roar or whistles. Car manufacturers do the exact same thing, including on our NV's! Just look at your radio antenna. There is a spiral of wire wrapped around it. All that does is break up air flow so the antenna doesnt whistle going down the road.

Brian - did you fix the issue? I installed my Topper rack over the weekend. It was LOUD!! Above 30 MPH it sounded like a low roar and at highway speed sounded like I was sitting inside a tornado. Highly annoying to say the least. I did the rope/bungee trick. Wrapped a long bungee around the front bar to test and it worked. I didnt have a single bungee long enough so took the two off and put on a spiral of 5/8" Nylon dock line rope. 90% of the noise is now gone. I can still hear a little rumble from up there but not bad at all. I may add the bungee down the road just so I have one handy if needed but the rope works fine.

Welcome! Congrats on the NV.

Welcome! What camper do you haul? Mines in my signature. I've towed two campers with the NVP, both towed well.

Any update?

I almost bought that rack! Need to carry kayaks. Ended up getting the Topper rack but it's not nere yet. Oval bars like the H3 normally don't make noise. I also thought it came with the inserts and end caps free. You can install a wind fairing, that works the best. There are other DIY methods you can try. Google rack noise and you'll find a bunch for Yakima racks since round bars are way worse. I'm worried about that with the Topper. The easiest method involves just wrapping nylon rope around the bar with some spacing. Ever see a car antena with the spiral wire wrapped around it? That stops the whistle on an antenna. Same thing with rack bars, you're trying to disrupt the airflow. What are you carrying? Maybe move the front bar back from the very front mount.

Wanted to update this. I went with 265/70-17 Hankook Dynapro ATM all terrain tires. We have a lot of construction going on with our roads and hit a piece of concrete that punched a hole in my Transforce. Instead of replacing I went with 5 Hankooks (always want the spare to match size/type if I can). They get awesome reviews online and even won top spot in some tire tests. They are VERY squirmy feeling right now. I have about 400 miles on them and they still feel a little greasy. The Transforce tracked much better and cornered better. I even had my alignment redone for free to see if maybe I had some toe-out issues. All is in spec. I am guessing it is just the deep, soft lugs. When I had BFG KO2's on my Tundra I didnt notice this issue though. I almost went with the BFG's on the NV but they were $350 more. I am curious how these feel when towing. I have a big tow coming up in one month (9 hours to FL - WDW!) so it could be interesting. If my van is squirming all over the place with the heavy load I may be taking these off. The reviewers had these tires on 1T trucks and towing with no issues so I am not sure what is going on. Pressure is OK, already checked that. They DO have way more traction than the Transforce. Those would slip on dew covered grass or wet roads. I purposely found some loose sand and wet clay and these did great.

Roof rack - the "best" out there is Aluminess. They are in California but ship anywhere. If you want the full blown rack with their custom mounted ladder you're looking at around $2500 shipped to your door! It's all TIG welded aluminum and powdercoated with a ton of options though. They also make offroad safari style bumpers front and rear with integrated grill guard. You can always get one custom made, there are a couple owners on here that went that route due to the Aluminess cost. Most offroad shops can build one. I got two quotes and both were pretty close to the Aluminess so I havent done it. I am looking at modding the Topper galvanized steel rack. it covers the whole roof, has side rails and plenty of cross bars. Its about $500 shipped. Floor liners, there are a few companies out there but I have generics. In the rear I used carpet runners that are rubber backed from Home Depot. A few use them. They work well. Engine - you can do the free DIY airbox mod (I have a write up on here), you can add a Bully Dog GT tuner (also write up), and many intakes fit (I wrote up the Airaid MXP) with small mods. Really any mod that the Titan takes can be used on the NV or slightly modded to be used. Exhausts can fit with mods. I assume headers would fit. Even the Stillen Supercharger will fit! With that one you need to watch tuning and programming. One guy did it and it popped his transmission needing a full rebuild. He got the tuning fixed but it took fiddling and a custom UpRev tune job. Inside - several have done the full LED dome light swaps. Lots of room for stereo equip. Suspension - the 4x4 guys have small lifts. I dont know if off the shelf Titan parts fit or not for anything else. I also had a Tundra - 2010 TRD Crewmax - and it was way easier to find parts for it. There are way more Tundras on the road!