ASD Dad

You have a Quigley that is supercharged?! Do tell more! I assume it is the Titan Stillen kit. Was it bolt and play? Any tuning issues? Any other issues or mods done to the engine? ie: exhaust, intake, headers, etc? Any transmission issues from that much power and torque? I'm not willing to give up my long warranty but I was eyeing that Stillen kit wondering if it would fit. My BD GT tuner helps a ton but a SC is on a whole different level.

Rad - I raced criterion style events in HS. I got schooled bad even though I was in great shape (ran 3200m in track and XC all through school including state finals). Roadies are machines on two wheels. I rode MTB for a really long time for fun and did the dual slalom races. XC guys were in roadie shape and DH guys had way too much money and didnt care if they broke bones! OK, back on topic, we can discuss bikes and stuff elsewhere on here! ========== Do you have a smartphone? If yes, there are any number of cheap-ish dongles that will plug into your OBD port under the dash and stream data via Bluetooth. You can then use the software to read the codes or if it's really cheap you will have to simply Google the code. Check out Amazon for most of them and reviews. The nicer ones can do other things like reset the codes if it's something simple like a loose gas cap and you want to turn off the CEL or even if you end up fixing the issue yourself you can reset it. If you do not have a smartphone there are just a little more expensive handheld units that will do the same thing. The cheap ones simply show the code and you'll have to research online. The better ones have a database where you can search the code on the scanner. The smartphone can be used real-time while driving if you want to see what is going on with MPG or any number of other variables. If you want real-time standalone then get something like the Scangauge. My Bully Dog GT Tuner acts like a Scangauge as well as being a tuner but I am guessing you dont want to flash your ECU for tuning...

rad again - curious about the bike frame warranty. My next door neighbor is an insane MTB enthusiast. His bikes are worth way more than either of his two cars and he races XC to DH. I was talking to him this weekend about his bikes when I brought up your comment. His expensive Giant carbon frame cracked at the BB during a hard crash at a local race. He didnt even realize it until he had it on the stand for cleanup and part fixing. Giant stopped making the frame but ended up giving him full credit towards a new frame which he happily took. You'd think bike companies would want their name in races for others to see and would take care of the riders if something happened. Who's to say it wouldnt have broken in a fun ride vs. a race??

Rad - a dealer will never, ever admit to past problems. The service manager would get fired. They always deny things up front which is why it is nice to have internet forums these days as well as access to techs. There are a bunch of them on the Tundra forums who will anonymously post up links to TSB's and other issues so we can bring those in with us during service work in case they do deny it. Then they quickly change their tune and fix things up. The Tundra had a bed shake issue and drive shaft clunk that was denied constantly. Funny enough there were two TSB's to fix both. Later on there were AIP failures which is emissions related and would strand the truck. Denied issue until enough stink was raised by all owners. It was a $400-ish part. Now there is a TSB and they extended the warranty on that part to 10yr, 100K miles. Here is the thing about the internet and customers in general. Happy customers dont post much or talk to many. They may tell 5 friends how happy they are with the product. Unhappy customers will tell anyone that will listen what a terrible problem it is and how bad things are. They'll go to every site they can find - forums, Yelp, Google+, FB, Twitter, etc and shout from the rafters about the problem. Granted we are a small lot of owners and this forum is minuscule compared to other vehicle forums but I believe this is the first complaint about this part. I would think if others have had the problem, V6 or V8, they would have found our little forum and posted up. I know I probably would, even if it was just to find out if there are similar incidents! The good thing about this is we now know there could be an issue. We also know possible symptoms. If we do get more feedback we can arm ourselves for issues after the warranty period is up if it turns out to be somewhat common by pointing out past problems.

rad - forgot to mention, I had a good friend who worked at the Toyota Dealership. Had I need on a track with it (and I have many times) the warranty is pretty much void for a failure like that. Since it was an autocross it was easy to get a flat bed tow truck to come get me and to the dealer. What's ironic is autocrossing can be be much tougher on the car vs. a track event.

If you're going to be paranoid about a part failing dont drive. All vehicles have failing parts. Some are quite expensive and are denied by the company until Class Action suits show up (look up Porsche 996 Intermediate Shaft Bearing Failures). How would you like to be stuck with a blown engine in that car?? BMW M5 E60 series? bad engines. Corvettes are going through engine issues right now. Ford Ecoboost engines getting water in their intercoolers? get the point? If you're out of warranty your best bet would be to find a local mechanic you trust if you are going to worry.

It's a part and parts fail. Doesnt matter if it has a 0.01% failure rate, one failed. Unfortunately for you it happened at a bad time in a bad place. I would be PO'd and up in arms as well but Nissan took care of it exactly as they should have. Had they not done anything then you could go crazy. I wouldnt lose confidence in what has proved a very reliable vehicle over a $20 part. I had a valve spring float on me while autocrossing with a fairly new Celica GTS. Pistons contacted the valves and destroyed my engine. One small spring out of 16 of them and destroyed a brand new engine. Toyota swapped the engine out, paid for my rental the 2 weeks I was waiting for the repair and extended my powertrain warranty. I still ran the car hard up until I traded it years later and I'd still buy a Toyota in a heartbeat. Point being it that it doesnt matter how small the part is, it matters what it controls. You could lose a $2 relay in your fuel system and that would strand you as well. You could have your door lock switch go out and that would be an annoyance. Be happy you have one of the best warranties out there, Nissan did their job and enjoy driving the van.

Welcome to to club! What TT are you planning on towing with it? See my signature line for my setup. I'd recommend a backup camera of some sort. Will make backing so much easier in general as well as hooking up to the camper. Rearward visibility is lacking as I am sure you are aware.

Growing - I am driving when doing the test. This is when the van is warm after driving or just starting out on a drive. I hope they can get it figured out for you! That would drive me nuts. At least this time of year up in MN you'll need heat more than AC!

I tried it on mine after I read your other thread. How exactly are you getting hot air? I have an early 2015 and if I set AC on and temp to 60 all the way up to 70 it is cold. 60 is very cold, 70 is cool but still cool and definitely not hot. Is this when set in Manual mode or Auto? I did my test in Manual. Set AC on, fan to high and kept increasing temps from 60 up to 70.

Wow, that price was waaaaay off. My sincere apologies! I thought that was way too low so I went and found my paperwork. I got mine for $37,999 out the door! My trade ('10 Tundra TRD Crewmax) was $22K and I ended up financing $15K. I have a 2015 NVP SL Silver with Tech. Keep in mind we dont pay sales tax on cars in SC, just a $300 "usage" tax for the road maintenance. The other guy was $38,500 about 2 hours away and I told Greer he had to beat him. Sorry again. Your price looks pretty much right in line. They are hard to get discounted and my deal took a few days of back and forth. They had a 2014 at another dealer locally and they only wanted $1000 less than new! It was a leftover white one was never titled but had about 90 miles on it.

EDIT - Correct price was actually right about $38K OTD. More a couple posts below! I agree on looking for one with the 5yr / 100K warranty. That's the best on the market and worth hunting for. We paid $32K for our 2015 SL and that was hunting around several dealers within a 2-3 hour driving radius. There are not many out there! Plenty of the cargos but not many NVP's. We have 13,000 miles on our '15 and so far so good. A few niggling issues came up but they were taken care of and none of them would keep me from buying another one. The only reason I would sell mine is if they put the new Cummins diesel in and the price isnt a crazy premium. I see you are in the NE area - check out the 4x4 conversions from Quigley. Carry an excellent warranty if bought when the van is brand new and the conversion has proved reliable. I think it runs around $10K but even with the price of a new NVP you are still $20K less than a comparable vehicle and there really arent many that are comparable at that point!

So as much as I know weighing is extremely important I had not gotten around to doing my camper yet. I knew I was way under capacity so it wasnt high on my list. Well today I had to go pick it up from the dealer for some warranty work and about 10 miles farther away was a truck stop with a CAT scale so I drove up there before heading home. My 2015 Hyperlite 27HFS Toyhauler from Forest River has a DRY sticker weight of 6400 pounds. Before taking delivery we filled both propane tanks, installed a battery and added a second bunk/sofa bed to the garage. The camper is currently loaded for a short camping trip minus some extra clothes and food. Weight as it sits now - 7300 pounds Tongue weight - 1100 pounds Most people add in about 1000# and we are almost dead on. I am well under the axle weights on the NVP and the camper still has over 2000# of carrying capacity left so it's also well under weight. What bothers me is that tongue weight. It's right at 15% which is good but it's high the the receiver on the NVP even with our Blue Ox. The issue is all toyhaulers are supposed to be carrying "toys" which all go in the rear garage and that takes weight off the tongue. All we have in the garage are two bunks, our grill and some misc storage stuff. I think I will add some more storage back there and move my tools and heavy stuff from the front storage to the rear. The biggest take away is this - NEVER rely on sales people at the camper dealer or the DRY weight on the brochure or sticker. We pack fairly light as we just dont need to take that much with us even with three little kids, we're camping to go camping outdoors. We dont spend much time in the camper, we want the kids out exploring and we go with them. We did add in the extra bed so that was probably 100# as it's a steel frame under it but other than that it's packed "normal". If we were going on a long trip we could easily add another couple hundred pounds with extra clothes, our bicycles, and lots of food (we try not to eat out at all). So - weigh your camper! It took very little time and was cheap. If you are not sure how there are plenty of sites online and blogs that explain it all. I know there are some on here with campers way over my weight and I'd love to see their weights posted... As well as the NV could be pulling and carrying those loads I bet they are really pushing the ratings if not way over.

Happy to hear that mod is working! I am still using it after deciding the Airaid wasnt worth the noise. I also swapped out the stock filter for a washable one but that is mainly for convenience. With the box mod and the Bully Dog still setup in Performance mode I am still getting 14-16 MPG in mixed driving. If I really baby it I can squeak out a a bit more but it's not worth it. Gas is at $1.70/gal right now so I cant complain. When towing the camper in my signature line I get about 9 MPG. I cant complain there either other than the gas tank is too small! 180 miles per tank gets old and can be scary if out somewhere that doesnt have many stations.

Already took my van in for service but I did tell them about it. They didnt say anything but did note it in my file so if it happens again I have something on record. The BD GT isnt technically a OBD pocket reader like a Scangauge, it is just a "perk". Its an ECU flasher/tuner. I bought it for towing but it made such a dramatic difference in how well the NV drives I leave it "tuned" all the time! I uninstall it for service work and I really dont like how it drive stock anymore!

My van goes in for routine service today so I plan on bringing it up just so it is on record. I know they will tell me they have never heard of it and would want me to duplicate it but I cant so we'll see how that goes...

Update- I had it lock me out today! Problem is, I cant duplicate it. I was just driving down the road and started checking it again and it was working. Then - it stopped working completely. No clue what I did different to cause it to lock me out. It was totally dead until I restarted the van and then it has worked since perfectly and I cant duplicate it. I honestly want to be able to duplicate it so I can try and get some sort of understanding what is going on. Oh, this too - my Bully Dog reads ECU codes so when it locked me out I had it do a ECU dump to see what it was reading. Zero codes came up on the reader. I still had the engine running and I was still locked out when I tried to read the code. I wanted to see if it showed P1815 but it told me ECU was 100% OK. I even scanned it twice.

Happy to hear you got it figured out. Tekonsha used to have great customer service so hopefully they step up for you.

Didnt work. Tried it about a dozen times. I WANT this to work so I can see what is going on. Oh well, it only happened on one trip (twice) but it happened. I'll be towing again soon enough with some 10+ hours drives towing it so maybe I will play with it more then. Shouldnt really make a difference other than being in Tow Mode... That wouldnt explain your issues though.

Something wasnt sitting right with me so I looked again, I did NOT use that harness. Where I mounted my P3 (dashboard cubby) was too far for the harness to work so I hard wired it to the factory Nissan pigtail that was in the glovebox. So you just hooked up the Tekonsha harness to the IQ and plugged that directly into the Nissan pigtail down by the Emergency Brake pedal, right? If yes, I would contact Tekonsha and see what's up. I honestly cant remember if I used all 5 wires or not and I loomed and ziptied the harness inside the dash.

I dont need to drive anywhere today until later but will try just lightly touching the button first and then tapping it. I was trying all sorts of stuff trying to make it act up and it always worked. That in of itself is great but when I need it and it doesnt work randomly is terrible! rad - I use it mainly towing. I downshift ahead of time when coming up on a hill to put the engine in it's higher torque band and I also use it for engine breaking occasionally. Engine breaking on a gas engine really doesnt do a whole lot unless you are revving it quite high but it does help on steeper descents. I have noticed if I brake hard enough in Tow mode it will downshift and hold it so that also helps. rad - the ECU is smart enough to not allow you to over-rev the engine. If you tell it to go into 2nd gear on the highway it will just ignore you until you have slowed enough to downshift. I am 99% sure that it will also override manual control if you are lugging the engine at too low an rpm and then floor it to say pass somebody. It will then downshift. I havent tried that recently but thought it did once when I forgot I was in manual mode and had to pass somebody.

I hooked up my Tekonsha using the same harness but I have the P3 model. Should still be the same wiring. I'd go over the wiring diagrams again carefully. Fuses only blow when there is a short/ground somewhere. How did you wire it? Butt connectors, crimp caps, wire nuts, solder and shrink wrap? Check all connections and if necessary rewire from scratch.

Just got back from a 35 mile drive - tried pushing it all the way in, tried just resting my finger on the end just enough to depress it slightly, and everything in between. Still worked every single time... I even tried it going from Park to Drive as you did, still worked. Something isnt consistent. I'd actually like to get it happen so I can see what could be doing it but I cant make it happen, it did it on it's own.

V Star confirmed what I found out this morning. On my 2015 I could hold the button down, paddle down, or both down for as long as I wanted and it never failed once. I tried all three of those several times up to 30 seconds long and it still worked. I'll try the gentle pressure thing later today but I still doubt that is what caused mine to fail twice on that trip.

Interesting. I don't drive with my hand on the shifter and I just pushed the button like always when mine locked me out. I may have pushed it several times in rapid succession when it refused to enter Manual mode but I didn't just hold it down. My plan tomorrow is to make it ignore me by holding it down. I want to see what happens. I'll certainty watch for it the next time I'm towing.