CaptainLarry

Thanks for the prompting, Cmercer9. I did resolve this just a few weeks ago. New starter after a 150 mile tow back home. $1800 at the dealer. We were stranded on top of a mountain on the Appalachian Trail. We were well taken care of by a nearby hostel, AAA and our overseeing God.

Interesting, Corvus. I do have a CEL on for some time now related to oxygen or cats. I suppose it could all be related. Please let us know what you find.

Hey All, I also had an overhead door light problem that I could not track down until the rear catch on the sliding door fell off and made it obvious what I needed to do. The rear latch is part of the front latch and all the other features, like in/out door handles, child lock, in/out lock mechanism. The whole thing pictured below is one complex system that I had to buy as an assembly. ($500, or one monthly payment on a new car!) Anyway, the door closes like a charm, the light stays off, the door is flush to the outside. I wish I had done it sooner as we've been slamming that poor thing for a couple years. When replacing, the many cables were switched one at a time to keep track of their termination points. Rather than replace one of the cables that terminated at the lower slide mechanism, I removed the new one and re-connected the old one. Larry

I guess this topic is not super old, but I think my comment may be helpful for posterity no matter. I had a shaking steering wheel problem for quite a while. Especially downhill into a turn. Scary when towing the camper. New tires did not fix it. Balancing seemed to help a little. I think a little more tow-in helped too at the alignment shop. (BTW - not every shop can handle the big vans.) But finally I stumbled into a long-term solution. Discount Tire, by chance, applied the wheel weights to the inside of the wheel rim, rather than pounding them into the outside of the wheel rim. So they are not visible anymore either, and I thought they just forgot to add weight at first. This solved the problem. Now I would think a sophisticated tire balancing shop/system could put the weights precisely where they are needed (inside/outside), but I don't know. I also don't think Discount Tire spins the tire fast enough, but they are fine now for a couple years, so there you have it. For the record, we use Cooper tires on stock rims with chrome hub caps. Nothing special. Larry

@ASD Dad Hey ASD Dad, did you buy an aftermarket bumper (rear?)? Were you satisfied? What was your source? I'm only a little concerned about the chrome thickness and rust popping up in a couple years. NEW Rear Step Bumper, Chrome Face Bar for 2012-2021 Nissan NV1500/NV2500 | eBay Larry

Interesting. Problem resolved, but I'm still curious. I have a non-start scenario that is somewhat similar and I don't suspect the anti-theft/IPDM system. I'll check it anyway. (Good video on 1.5x playback speed) This only occurs when it is colder, colder than it was the day before. Today was like 40s compared to 60s yesterday. The key is turned and all seems normal except a metallic tinking clicking sound under the hood near the intake manifold. No start. Sometimes we open close doors or hood (looking for problem) and then it starts. This has been going on for over a year, but very very intermittent. Only recently started again with cooler weather. Could it be battery? Maybe, but it always starts eventually with no intervention. So it has been a year or more on this same battery, hard to believe that is the problem. It has never died, and never runs poorly. Other ideas? Solenoid? Neutral safety switches? I just wonder if the IPDM condition manifests this clinking sound or not.

About that water pump replacement. My serpentine belt is squeaking now (180k?) and I noticed that the water pump stands out significantly, pushing the belt outward. The bend in the belt is very noticeable since the new noise drew my attention to it. Seems a very dramatic tolerance error from Nissan.

Sorry I could not help. I'm glad you figured it out. Mine arrangement did not have the 35 mph limitation.

I'm pretty sure the only place where I located the wires was at each overhead lamp. But I can't say that is going to help you if the wires go in parallel to the other fixtures. You'd have to trace it back to the timer and door relay. I'm not sure. I'm afraid I'm not much help. I did manage to load some images finally, I think.

I'm interested on behalf of a friend from Charlotte. Where are you located? Larry

I put my column back together since I could never reproduce the error. I'll be towing this coming week. We'll see how it does up and down the mountains.

I did open the column Wednesday as planned. A little different set-up than the Titan photos I saw. More clips to pop. Hopefully they will stay together after reassembly. The cheesy brushes that surround the shifter opening were damaged. (Rhetorical question - Why are those even there!) The wire bundle looked OK. There was only one potential weak point right where a sheathed bundle entered the steel shifter tubing. It very well could be broken inside, but the sheath was not really chaffed. So we sat right there in the driveway shifting in and out of manual mode with just the ignition on. No faults ever, despite wiggling, pulling, twisting, flexing, tilting the wheel. I also removed the plastic wire retainer to give the wires more freedom for the experiment. I left the cowling off for now to do some more tests while driving. Nothing so far.

Nice layout. Mine being a touch low, does dig the ground occasionally. But it's still working!

2014. I have not tried since Sunday. I was going to open the column tonight.

I had this happen while towing the camper down the Blue Ridge this weekend. So the Feds don't see this as a safety issue? No lawsuits? No crashing down the mountain? Nissan told me no TSB on file for that. Unreal. I guess I'll look under the steering column tonight.