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timsbeast

Door Open Light Stuck on - 2012 Nissan NV2500 hightop

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Anyone out there have a problem with a door open light stuck on in the dashboard.  Seems like it is intermittent, can not find the problem yet.

 

Thanks! T

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Does the dome lights stay on as well if set to door position? Possibly a bad door switch or short somewhere.

 

It’d be nice if someone had a pdf service manual with schematics... anyone?

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It's probably the slider door contacts. Either not making good contact physically or dirty contacts.

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Update -  I removed the stock lights and it seems like the back door pin is not working right.  Not sure if the back light needs to be plugged in?  Will test it this week and report.

 

Thanks! Tim

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Did you figure out by chance about your door open light on the dash? I’m having the same issue right now with my 2020 NV . I’ve checked all the sensors and buttons on the door latches just can’t seem to find what’s causing it to stay on it’s a brand new truck

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Did you figure out by chance about your door open light on the dash? I’m having the same issue right now with my 2020 NV . I’ve checked all the sensors and buttons on the door latches just can’t seem to find what’s causing it to stay on it’s a brand new truckI’ve checked all the sensors and buttons on the door latches just can’t seem to find what’s causing it to stay on it’s a brand new truck

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Sometimes my back doors will look shut but a second slam is needed to turn off the light.  You could try shimming buttons one by one until it goes away.

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It’s a 2020. Why not have the dealer check and fix it? Assuming they can. At the very least you will establish a “warranty” record in case it is a recurring problem. 

 

Slightly different issue. When rear doors look closed but aren’t, the alarm won’t beep when locking the doors. The doors lock but your brain at some point will wonder why no beep. Usually when you are far away...

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https://nissannvforum.com/topic/1760-door-open-light-stuck-on-2012-nissan-nv2500-hightop/

I have the same problem with my 2012 NV2500, it seems to be intermittent. I have opened each door and fully depressed the button and this does not turn off the light. It seems like it may be a faulty switch. Does anyone know why there are so many (7) contacts for the front of the side sliding door?

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So...had this same issue with all the same troubleshooting everyone here did, except I solved the problem.  In regards to the back barn doors, the white switch at the top of the passenger side door does nothing except control the courtesy lights, and it seems that this might be the case with all the latches.  The actual door ajar switches are built into the latches themselves, and you need to replace the entire latches in order to rectify the issue.  I had some rust issues so I replaced the striker plates and the hardware at the same time...if you can reuse your stock hardware and strikers, then you only need the two latches.  Now my door light works flawlessly as it should.

 

NAA is running a 15% off sale through the 5th, and Hart Nissan in VA seems to have the best price that I have found.  If you sign up for the VIP program, you get an additional discount as well, but that's for any Nissan dealership, so check your locals to save on shipping. 

 

Total cost is about $100, takes about 30 mins on the cargo van...on the normal one you'll have trim pieces to contend with.  If this warrants a description/video, then lmk and I'll post more.  Additionally, you might be able to take electronics cleaner and some dielectric and clean up what you have...I didn't try because of rust, but I am normally a repair over replace kinda guy, so this may be a zero cost solution for those that can just clean up their existing latches and get the switches working again.  

 

Parts List:

 

Left Latch

 

Right Latch

 

6 of bolts to mount latches

 

4 of bolts to mount striker plates

 

lower striker plates

 

- laf

Edited by Local Apparent Friday

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Sorry for the pic dump, I'm currently experiencing difficulties getting photos from my phone to the computer for editing. 

 

What I am showing here is the latch and the switch mechanisms...there is a lobe that comes around when the latch is closed that triggers the microswitch.  In my particular instance, one of my latches was seized and was therefor not triggering, and the other, the tabs on the switch that hold it in place were broken, as pictured, so the switch would lift up instead of triggering.  The switches are branded Cherry, which was bought out in 2008 and, after a rebranding in 2016, is now manufactured under the ZF brand. 

 

I cannot easily find a replacement microswitch, nor am I particularly inclined to, as I had to replace everything anyway, but it is worth noting that these switches are normally closed microswitches.  You could achieve the same end result (and/or determine which of your switches needs to be replaced) by simply unplugging the harness at the latch.  This would break the circuit and turn off the door ajar light, although then it would not show you when the door is actually ajar.  Your choice.

 

-laf

Edited by Local Apparent Friday

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On 5/15/2022 at 9:07 PM, Stefan said:

Does anyone know why there are so many (7) contacts for the front of the side sliding door?

 

Per the diagram here, 5 of them are related to the lock assembly and the secondary switch.  The last two are likely for the door ajar switch located on the latch itself.

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Hey All, I also had an overhead door light problem that I could not track down until the rear catch on the sliding door fell off and made it obvious what I needed to do.  The rear latch is part of the front latch and all the other features, like in/out door handles, child lock, in/out lock mechanism.  The whole thing pictured below is one complex system that I had to buy as an assembly.  ($500, or one monthly payment on a new car!)

 

Anyway, the door closes like a charm, the light stays off, the door is flush to the outside.  I wish I had done it sooner as we've been slamming that poor thing for a couple years.

 

When replacing, the many cables were switched one at a time to keep track of their termination points.  Rather than replace one of the cables that terminated at the lower slide mechanism, I removed the new one and re-connected the old one.  

 

Larry

2012885906_VanLatch.thumb.jpg.399706b90b7af58e3f17b94062affee5.jpg

 

 

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