HERvan

I did adjust the headlights and am very happy with them now. I can now see the furry and not-so-furry (deer) critters quite a ways down the road. A vast improvement over the factory lights. I did remove the DRL fuse prior to first testing! I do use the high beams regularly, and they do produce impressive seeing distances. I had thought, when I first adjusted them, they were adjusted too high and were blinding to oncoming traffic. It appears they were adjusted correctly - no high-beam flashes from oncoming traffic. Well worth their price.

Had to go to the dealer for a resolution. 1 new fob, reprogram one original fob, diagnostics - about $500.00. Everything now works. And, we had a good meal at a local restaurant. Where I live is 20-30 miles from any good place to eat.

Thanks for the suggestions. I can comprehend and repair pretty much anything made prior to 1990, but all this modern stuff is beyond my capabilities. Battery disconnect didn't work. No alarm or other programming, other than the radio. The aftermarket fobs were returned - obviously not compatible, even though the seller says they were. Made an appointment with the dealer; 50 miles one way. No independent shops locally that want to deal with a 10-year old vehicle for an oddball problem. Fingers crossed that the dealer can correct the problem without it costing me an arm and a few toes!

Well, 108 views and absolutely NO comments. I guess this isn't a very important topic, or no one is smart enough to provide any suggestions.

I recently installed the TorchBeam T2's, as referenced above. High beam is really nice; lots of light down the road. Low beam sucks - can maybe see 50 feet in front. Reflective road signs can't be seen until within that 50 feet. Critters not at all in time to avoid them. Lots of critters on the main highways where I live.

I had a fob die due to water ingress; the rubber split. Obtained two from aftermarket sources. On the first attempt at programming, the indicator lights flashed when the key was inserted and withdrawn the appropriate amount of times. Went through the programming instructions for both new fobs. Followed the "exit from programming mode" instructions. Neither fob works, and another factory fob (SO's) no longer works. Attempted to program the two new fobs again, and the indicator lights never flash. However, when pressing the "lock" button on any of the three fobs (2 new, 1 old), when in programming mode (I presume, I don't know), the indicator lights flash. Following a variety of "exit programming mode" suggestions does nothing. None of the fobs now work. Could it be that the system is still in programming mode? If so how does one verify this, and how does one exit? The "key in ignition" chime has been disabled - I forget how it was done. I might have removed a wire from the door switch; I will have to check. Would this cause the issue? Any thoughts will be appreciated. NO, this vehicle does not have keyless start, nor does it have the alarm system. Also, the windows DO NOT roll up or down then the driver door key is held in the lock or unlock position. All door locks and windows operate properly when operated manually. The doors DO lock above 15 MPH, and unlock when shifted into Park. This is a very basic commercial low-top van with the V-8 engine. I did have an issue with the doors locking automatically without the fob being activated, but that issue has been resolved with some operator training ?. zuhnc

Ford puts two under the driver's seat on the full-size Transit's. AGM's I think. Vented through the floor. Also fuses and buss bars in the compartment, as well. Can't get them in or out, or access easily, without removing the driver's seat and mounting. HERvan

I have modified mine for interior lights. E-mail me and I will send the information anyone needs. kczflea dot factory - at - cox dot net. HERvan

Ensure that what ever type of battery you put in the passenger compartment is in its OWN SEPARATE compartment, well secured (accidents, you know; batteries are heavy) and VENTED (even AGM's) to the outside. Also make sure you have the appropriate insulated high amperage disconnects, easily accessible from the outside of the battery compartment (those used for boats come to mind), and the box is well insulated, inside, electrically. You don't want to see what happens to a battery that is shorted by a wrench or other loose piece of metal.

Our original horse-trailer-towing 2000 Ford E-250 has over 250,000 miles on it. We were looking for something more reliable (not that Ford isn't, but in the boonies with a quarter million miles, two horses, three dogs, and a broken van) you get the picture. We were looking at Ford, again, but couldn't find any towing specs for the new Transit (which wasn't on the market yet). The others didn't have the towing capacity or HP for our needs. So, we went to the Nissan dealer, drove a 1500 V-6, and liked the ride. We opted for the 2500NV low roof, commercial van with tow package and big engine, and no interior, as we travel with the dogs and crates. A pickup wouldn't do (for us maybe, but the dogs would be p*****d). We love it. Tows great, and has more room inside than the E250. HERVan

After having our 2500NV for a month or so, I tried to wash it. I cut my fingers up numerous places trying to wash the roof. On inspection, it appeared that every place there was a spot weld, there was a little raised sliver of metal. This is caused by the spot welding process. I took it back to the dealer, they looked it over, and completely refinished the roof under warranty. They ground down each weld, primed and painted. They did not, however, fill in the little depressions; one can stll see each weld. No more leaking fingers! My dealership appears to take care of their customers. Ssome have great customer service, some don't care. I agree, go higher up. Paint peeling in only one spot is suspect as to care in factory priming and painting; probably some sort of contamination during the process. I do know, if you paint over wax or oil, or even some cleaning products, the paint looks great, but has no adhesion to the primer or the bare metal, and will "delaminate", so to speak. HERVan

We got the 2500 NV low roof for the towing capacity and bigger engine. We were originally tending to Ford, but with the Econoline line (pun!!) ending, we opted for the better capabilities of the NV . We would have LOVED to have gotten the NV with a diesel; we tow a horse trailer, and would have liked the extra "grunt". Some of our trail ride places get pretty boggy, so a diesel AND 4x4 would have been the perfect ride. A pickup wouldn't do, as we also take our three dogs and crates with us on our horse camping trips. But, we will keep the NV for at least ten years, probably longer, if the maintenance costs remain low. Fuel prices are what they are, and one has to take the ups and downs in stride, as cost of ownership. HERVan

I have about 5000 miles on a 2013 low roof v-8. Towing the two-horse bumper pull trailer, with horses :-), I get about 12.5. Took a 2000 mile road trip recently, 1/3 western Virginia and Tennessee mountains, and then down to Florida, back to Virginia, averaged about 14.5 (NOT pulling the trailer). Slightly worse in the mountains, but 16-17 on the Interstates. HERVan

I carry a variety of things on my low roof 2500. I mounted full-size Kindorf (the stuff electricians use to mount conduit, etc to walls and ceilings) with 5/16" stainless steel fasteners (regular hex nuts and bolts). I use the 5/16" square drop-in nuts and bolts (found where ever you buy your channel - Lowes, HD, etc) to attach the "accessories" to the Kindorf. Using these nuts, you don't have to unthread the bolts completely. Unscrew the bolt, the nut turns 90* and can be pulled out of the channel. With this system, I can mount anything almost anywhere on the channel, and remove it quickly. HERVan

2013 NV 2500 HD low roof cargo, 5.6L. Just finished a 2500 mile trip from Norfolk, VA to northern Alabama, western Tennessee, central Alabama, Florida panhandle, back through Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, back to Norfolk. Great handling, very good vehicle, plenty of room for two persons and three dogs in their crates. The Norfolk to western Tennessee was through the southern Appalachians, very hilly :-). Mileage, after 4500 miles (total van miles) is 14.15. Best mileage on the superslab, cruise control, averaging 65 mph - 17.5 mpg. Worst through the mountains of western Virginia, averaging 35, no cruise - 14.25. Overall, very satisfied with the vehicle. We tow a horse trailer on occasion. With the dogs, horses, trailer, etc, GVW is 13,360 (actually measured on CAT scales), mpg was 10.5. Truck weight was 6,860, and trailer weight was about 6,500. Should see an increase in non-towing mileage as more miles accumulate on the vehicle.

I also camp a lot, with the dogs and horses. I have two methods to add "manual-on" interior lights. e-mail me for diagrams. Both methods require finding an "always hot" point in the fuse box at the lower left of the dash. I am in the process of finalizing diagrams and taking pictures of my installation. kczflea.factory@verizon.net.

Is there a way to allow the driver's door to open when locked, other than manually unlocking first, or using the "unlock" pushbutton on either the armrest or the key fob? I would like to be able to exit the vehicle using just the opening handle, without either manually unlocking, or unlocking ALL the doors. Or am I stuck with manual unlocking? Maybe this is another of those "we didn't think of that" scenarios, similar to the interior light debacle! If anyone is interested, I have determined a method of powering all the interior lights, without having to open a door or use the ignition switch. E-mail if you are interested: kczflea.factory@verizon.net.

We do tent camping, with the dogs, and sometimes the horses, so do not live in the van. Going to be outfitted with storage for tents, chairs, other camping accessories. Plenty of room for the three dog crates. Thanks for the suggestions for insulation and some sound reduction. We do take some week and two week long trips, and the sound muffling would be welcome on 6-8 hour driving days :) . When I get it back from the dealer (installing interior side panels and a window in the sliding door), and after some interior work to do, i hope to post some pictures.

Thanks. We are going to use it mostly for camping with the dogs and crates, but 5 or 6 times a year towing a 7k (loaded) two-horse trailer. We use a 2003 E-250, 5.4L, now, and get 11-12 with the trailer, and 16-18 on the highway with only dogs and us. We looked at the other 2013/2014 vans as replacement, and the NV gave us everything we wanted (except the diesel; no one offers that in a new van, anymore, with the towing capacity we wanted). Time will tell, however. Now, on to the interior insulation, rain on the roof, and general noise abatement from the "boom box", so to speak. Any suggestions?

Bought a new NV2500, V8, trailer tow package. Outfitting for camping with the horses and dogs. Like the tie-downs inside, and the multiple clips on the roof. Have seen varing reports for mileage with the V8 from 10's up to 20's, with the onboard "mileage computer" displaying wildly differing information. What would be the expected mileage, not towing anything, and with towing a 7k (loaded) trailer? Generally mild hills (think east of the Applacians, mid-Atlantic states).