kitcarlson

8 mm -1.25

I would have thought it would have happened over over a year ago. The 5.4L is a Ford engine!

All the automatics I have driven have designed in changes in shifting, by throttle action. Most older vehicles have mechanical linkages for control actions. Newer vehicles likely use throttle position sensing, and control electronics. At freeway speeds, quick throttle action results in down shift of one or more gears, releasing throttle results in up shift. Heavy throttle when accelerating raises shift points. Light throttle lowers shift points. Service manuals typically outline safe speed in gears, and normal shift patterns.

Sounds like it is working correctly. If you keep your foot down, the governor will shift it. If the rev limiter hits and it does not shift you have a problem. Are you new to automatics?

How is that abnormal? The shifting should make use of the upper RPM band for maximum power and acceleration. It should continue to shift, and not go to rev limit.

A wild guess would be loose gas cap or bad seal in a rain storm. Purge vacuum pulled water in.

I might be able to find a solution. It might be similar to driver over-ride on passenger windows. If there is a single control signal for remote and door switches that would have to be split. I have the service manual and will do research as time permits.

Make a hitch receiver mount unit for spare, with ball to attach trailer.

The cabinets were constructed a piece at a time. I found nothing seems square, and dimensions taper at the rear. I took advantage of the 8mm mounts above mid panels, and fabricated aluminum brackets to mount hinges for the bottoms. The panels hide all that work. When the bottoms are folded they hold the folded door sections up. The door sections hang from the rafters using nuts and studs in existing holes. The bottoms and door sections interlock. I am not a cabinet maker. I am sure that would be an advantage. I have built a few kit cars, and that is where my nick name originated. I think the door window is a good idea. When we bought the van early, they were not available yet. There is a blind area, without the help of a passenger. I did add a 170 degree rear view camera with 10.1" monitor to the left of the rear view. I powered the camera off the tail lights instead of back-up lights so it could be turned on anytime. There is a square plastic body plug above the license plate, it served as a good mount point. The color camera and monitor, less than $100 on e-bay. We might add the door window too. I am interested in hearing how it goes, and part #s needed.

I think there are 4 bolts that hold it to the floor. The wiring for the internal console inverter plug-in and 12V outlet need to be detached from harness. There in an additional 110V outlet in the rear, and 12V in the dash, so you won't be without. The console has its advantages. I am considering an ac/dc thermo-electric cooler, and placing it in the cargo area. If the seats could rotate to the rear it would alleviate the block to the rear with the console. Not sure if they are small enough to rotate without the corners binding with door and console.

I had help from my wife, mostly her ideas. Yes they are fold away cabinets. Good for storing pillows, sheets and blankets. They fold up when empty, to get the space back, for normal use.

Glenn, I ordered them online at clipsandfasteners.com I also ordered longer pop-in fasteners since the fabric added enough thickness, that the original fasteners would not hold. I did all the work without drilling holes with the exception of the A/C and the shore power inlet. When cutting between the wider rafters, the A/C was installed without trimming the rafters, I was pleased with that. Also the roof curvature was perfect for the Polar Cub A/C.

Glenn, I found some durable cloth backed suede fabric, and used 3M #80 spray adhesive to attach to panels. For the missing panels on the door, I made them using 1/8 plywood. I also made the ceiling from same plywood and attached with screws in purchased plastic inserts snapped in the rectangular holes in rafters. It turned out very well. With added insulation, the NV2500 high-top is very quite, and A/C cools much better. I posted pictures under Interiors in Photo Gallery. http://nissannvforum.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12-rt-cargo/

How is that done?

There are a few posts below in the Engine and Powertrain section. I would think the cool temperatures in Michigan would lower MPG. Things like winter grade gas may also decrease MPG. I have experienced 10% ethanol results in 10% less MPG.

There is a time-out, to save the battery, your bulbs are most likely still good.

I checked for the open connector at the emergency brake cable and found it. I looked in my NV2012 service manual disk. It seems to be E44, electric brake pre-wire circuit. I found it in the PG.pdf section on page 47. The connector has multiple pins however there only seem to be three wires, red, green and black, they are fairly heavy gauge.

That sounds like the OBD2 connector (On Board Diagnostics).

There is a newly released kit 118553. It is called a T-One it pugs into tail light wiring, needs 12V power and had lamp driver up to 7.5A. It is for 4-pin connector however there are 4 to 7 pin converters.

Our NV 2500 high top V8 averages 15.1 mpg iwith 75% in town at speeds < 40 mph and many stop lights, and 25% highway at 70 mph.

I found one on ebay a while ago, just checked, none now.

Nice post on wiring, thank you.