xavman

Out of curiosity, anybody know if the grill size is the same as the Titan? I am thinking about getting a grill cover for winter driving since the rear heater sucks.

May be late to need, and the party, but perhaps a truck stop with an automatic Truck wash?

Something to think about is: 1) make sure you car is running (or on) this entire procedure, and, 2) Understand that you need to make sure you drop each tire by 10PSI (i do 15, but really just drain each tire for at least 30secs) each (to trigger learning readiness) AND [then] set each tire to the calibration pressures (listed by everyone) prior to hitting relearn on the menu. - What this means is that you can have the DR set to 80, drop the pressure by 10 (15 to be safe), and then bring back up to 80. This allows you to avoid over-pressurizing the tire.

Most modern cars have the parts to handle higher levels of ethanol. the differences between 10% and 15% ethanol are likely negligible to the seals etc that are ultimately susceptible. The truth is though, that there is no reason or benefit for using more ethanol, especially for the 3500s (cannot speak for the 1500 and 2500 vans). the fact that ethanol is cheaper should also be informed by the fact that there is less energy in 10% ethanol gas vs 100% gasoline. Most cars get poorer MPG when running ethanol blends. the bigger the beast (heavier the car), the less effective a 10% ethanol blend is compared to straight gasoline. So, CHPHILO, there is no reason for you to ever consider using anything but straight gasoline (or 10% gasoline if you have no choice).

Anyone done or thought about applying truck bed liner spray to the exterior roof to protect from tree branches etc? If so, details? Impacts to speed/mpg?

Guys, Take this for what it is worth. I chose to go with the 75s (Michelin MS2s). So far no troubles - ride feels better but that could be part imagination. The wheel well can easily accommodate the extra 1 inch total diameter. I will say that my speedometer is now MORE accurate (based on GPS devices measuring speed). I think Bates is right, when restricting oneself to the CARGO. Looking back, all wheel databases (Tirerack etc) do NOT distinguish between cargo or passenger. However, because they are identical platforms (excepting interior), this makes me even MORE okay with the upfit to a 75. Realizing that these cars are cargo-borne bastards, the speedometer mismatch makes all the more sense. Nissan did not likely recalibrate the speedometer for the passenger 70s. Pete is right - the size of the placard on the door says 70 for my passenger 3500. Not sure why Nissan made the 70/75 distinction. It should have stayed standard to the 75 to accommodate cargo and passenger, 1500/2500/3500. But like Pete said, and I verified with calculators online, we are talking about 1 inch extra diameter. That means I ride 1/2 inch higher...no biggy. So Rick - I hear what the color ad is selling, I just ain't wanting to stay on target. The 75 offers more weight protection (evidence: 75s are standard on the 3500 Cargo). My personal suggestion is go to 75s when ready to change out tires.

May sound weird, and forgive me for the fact that I may use unofficial terms or language, but here it goes: - My 2012 Nissan NVP3500SV (V8, 5.6L) has LT245/70R17E stock (from the dealer,, bought new). The manual says to use this same size as does the inside of the door jam. seems pretty straight forward, right? - Every tire website or dealer I visit now says that OEM is LT245/75R17E. Every time I talk to a living person, they reference some book that mentions the right size to be 75 and not the 70. So, wtf? Is my car a glitch? Did the wrong crap get thrown onto it out of the factory? is a 75 going to make any real differences? why does all current knowledge call for the 75 when the manual calls for the 70? can i follow the modern 75 recommendation or do I really need to stick to the door jam 70? 2012_NV_Passenger_Owners_Manual.pdf

Need help from someone on this one...it started with my son and a small toy. My son brought his toy into the Nissan NVP 3500 2012 SV. He dropped it, perfectly, into one of the floor openings (notches). Need/want to get it out and was wondering if anybody knows of a way to access underneath the floating floor.

So I was looking at the front of my 2012 Nissan NVP 3500, 8 Cyl, Regular roof. The NISSAN symbol on the front of the front grille is peeling inside the lettering, which hints to me this is not a bonafide chrome piece. Anyone have experience with this? Recommendations? I would rather replace the whole grille with something a little more "built to last." Anyone know if the NVP 3500 grille specs are the same as the same year Titan? Or anyone know of a grille out there that would fit?

So here is the "Official" story from both the dealership and your manual. The vents are not dual use. The ceiling rears are for a/c only, while the ground vents are heat only. The vents that are in use are thus tied to whether you are running hot or cold air. In my personal experience, the rear system is weak and pathetic. To get any real benefit, i usually run at near max settings. However, based on your statements, I would recommend taking it into the dealership for some repair service, which should still be covered by the warranty. It could be a blower motor. Ours had a "clog" originally.

Any chance you can give us a little walkthrough tips so us more adventurous types can start strategizing?

I would love to know this too.

No searchable video called 00333

Sadly not likely. If you got the money, invest in the tuner, a high flow muffler, and high flow air system. And use the cruise, because this chunky chick likes to go fast.

Easier way is to open the glovebox, squeeze in the 2 black side posts, and pull out the whole glovebox. Still have to do all 7 bolts. Don't go to Nissan for the filters, they (per record) have no filter for the NVP. I got mine from Oreilly or Autozone (2012 Nissan NV3500 SV V8 5.6L).

Jim, Got any install links/pointers/recommended products for converting to the LED? Mike

What I did was looked at the costs of buying a Suburban with the options that I wanted. I then sunk that money into a similarly optioned NVP3500 and then added warranty support.

Still working out great. Not sure about the chip tuner.

Check my previous posts for the CAI.

So I just did this. It is a pain, but nothing that cannot be done without proper prep. I would say that Tatunka's info is critical. Get the pieces you need. - the easiest way in is from below. no removing anything. just put the truck on a ramp, slide under. look for the oil pan, then look to the alternator. The frost plug is just behind it (rear of it, so closer to you then the alternator). - Make sure you get 2 gallons of the 50/50 antifreeze from NIssan (about $55 total). - Get the heater. I would say that no matter what you do, buy this up front. Most places that will do an install, wont carry the part anyway. Oreilly sell zerostart (what I got, had it in less than a day), Napa sells Kat's. If I had to do again, I would spend the extra and try to buy the OEM from Nissan. - Make sure you get a 12mm (male) hex driver bit. I got mine at Autozone. I also got a 12mm hex key at Sears. The trouble comes down to interference from the oil pan. What I ended up doing was use the hex key (it looks like an "L"), stuck the long end into the frost plug, and took a 30 inch 3/4 inch steel pipe. Because you need LEVERAGE. --If you get a 12mm hex male bit, get a solid wrench, and a 4inch extender. make sure you get high quality pieces or you will probably strip. use 1/2 inch driver size, not 3/8. still recommend the steel pipe as a cheater (lowes, home depot etc). bring your wrench to lowes so you get the right inner diameter pipe. - get a bucket to catch old coolant. it wont rush out. Literally, once i loosened the plug, i went and cleaned out a bucket and came out and then caught all the fluid. NOTE: you will not stay dry at this point, accept the coolant, so if your car is warm, make sure it ain't scolding. I ended up catching 1.5 gallons of coolant. - all i did was raise the truck onto 2 gorilla ramps. I used an old box, opened it, laid it under and slid in/out easily. - I (per instruction) put teflon tape on the heater. I didn't have any torque specs, or a torque anyway, but I used about 25-35 pounds pressure (mentally). - I then put coolant into the heater until it started raising the levels in the overflow. I then started it up and watched for leaks and made sure I was ready to stop the truck or add coolant. - I then plugged the cord in, ziptied it to the alternator wiring, again to some small coolant (maybe a/c pipe), then wove it out to the grill and ziptied it to the grill (block behind lowest, passenger side of grill). PNR - Point of No Return - the second you have the frost plug unstuck ( it is a little biznatch getting loose). I had everything already, but if i tried to do it and couldnt get the frost plug off myself, I was going to stop and take it in.

Thanks for the inputs, sorry, I should have offered more information. I have the 3500 SV, passenger. Being used as a family car, for me the wife, and 6 kids. As I never really ever intend on loading it down with cargo, and minimal (if any) towing, so I really want to make the ride more comfortable.

Anyone got a decent idea of how to improve the ride (make softer) on this beast? My 3 month old cries everytime she is in this car and my wife is lookin into driving the car off a cliff to get the insurance money to buy a minivan! If anyone has done a suspension upgrade and can provide me a before/after impression, much thankful. QuoteMultiQuoteEdit

Anyone got a decent idea of how to improve the ride (make softer) on this beast? My 3 month old cries everytime she is in this car and my wife is lookin into driving the car off a cliff to get the insurance money to buy a minivan! If anyone has done a suspension upgrade and can provide me a before/after impression, much thankful.

There are CAIs that work. Chck some of my other posts.

I would have gotten the V6 but it didnt have the options the v8 does... i am using this as the family car.