radin2son

Talk about product placement. TT is using a NV high top, with great graphics to haul all their gear. The Titan XD got 17.7 mpg. 4x4 testing today.

I think the Titan XD will probably win this. TT likes brand new truck introductions and has shown quite a few videos. The SEMA (aftermarket) measurement video was interesting. Still waiting for the SEMA NV. Regarding NVs, TT's NV averaged 14 mpg. They also had a Sprinter for long term testing, and they were not happy with mpg results. If I recall correctly, it was 16-17 mpg. Take this, NV's price advantage, towing (this impressed the SMB Ford guys) and all the truck qualities... Maybe TT will get around to a van comparison.

I should go back and "like" all of the 12 or 24 volt posts you made for perseverance. But this is competitive after all...

Truck Trend really liked the NV high top they had for long term testing, so KMG's reasons would put it on top. The only criticism would be the "hard surfaces" in the interior. Isn't that one of the things that makes it a truck? The other criticism was the lack of a visor vanity mirror. Good thing in our opinion after too many weeks in our NV. Best reaction was a Ford PU 4x4 driver at a red light in Laguna Beach, where everyone is stopped next to each other going in opposite directions (If you have been in Laguna Beach you have been stopped at that light.) and yelled "Is that the new Ford?" "No it's a Nissan." He gave us the thumbs up." In Seal Beach a pedestrian wanted to look at a van that was a real truck...

Titan XD is in the mix. Days 1and 2 completed. Go to trucktrend.com if interested. Love to see a van of the year competition. NVs would likely come out on top.

Wollip, good to hear your solution works. Let the cast at North Point Nissan know that they already are on our list of "positive experience/service" dealers and I for one will stop by for service if I'm in the area. It's funny that the new Titan XD has gone with a column shifter. Wonder if it will use the same manual mode. The reason for the column shifter makes you wonder who is in charge, the engineers or the interior decorators? The stated reason was the need for more room in the center console and 8 cup holders. I hope they are joking.

That is a great job. The fit and darker gray (?) panel goes well with your silver (?) NV's interior.

After "Tough Love," there was a void. Go over to trucktrend.com and check out the new video, "The Delivery." I looked for it on Nissan Commercial, but it wasn't there. There also is a first drive article on the new Titan XD. No price yet, but expected to run $40-60,000. Even some kind words about NVs. Why not, their long term use review was positive. We would consider the Titan XD over our NV and add a roof/rack tent to it. Saw a Toyota FJ Cruiser with this set up.

Wollip, I understand my "what ifs" don't offer a solution, so no more... Somewhere I read about the 3 year warranty expiring at midnight, scheduling a service appointment on line and later dealing with Nissan. They covered the part ($500) and the dealership charged for diagnosis. Was that you? If so, Nissan paid to replace the part, a part that "NNA" now says is not the problem. Your, or a phantom, hand is resting on the shift column and/or your shift habit/technique are the problem. Yet, you have your NV without a problem for 3 years. Solution? If you go deeper into the system, it will be on your dime. ASD Dad, My first automatic was a '99 Accord 4 cyl and my last standard was an '02 Civic Si. I'm not worried about high revs in the NV, drive it much like you and wouldn't want a standard transmission. My concern was a "what if" the manual mode failed when in 2nd and to what degree the ECU is involved in this system. In reality, it is a lockout mode with the auto transmission working with whatever gears are not locked out. Yes, you manually lock/unlock gears. It appears no one else noticed what I did when locking out 4th. Similarly, only you, Wollip and KMG had a problem with locking out 5th. I bet there are very few people using this feature, or it is robust enough that there have only been 3 problems. Good news for the rest of us.

But you did have a problem or foresaw a problem relying on braking on steep hills when the button failed. The fact that the automatic remains functional helps, but the randomness of the button malfunction can't lessen your concern. Whatever the engineers intended or what the best use is, I'll continue using and liking it. You're right, you shouldn't have to fabricate your own fix, suggested by Gene or otherwise.

Wollip and ASD Dad, I went back and read your original posts. Wollip, you wanted to use it descending and needed more than just braking; ASD Dad, you were pulling your RV up a hill, if I got this right. From the standpoint of the "button algorithm," not sure I even know what this means, it shouldn't matter, that is, turning off/on overdrive is no big deal. But what about speed in the first and engine load in the second instance. What if?

What hasn't been addressed in this discussion is the possibility of disengaging the manual mode accidentally or not at all when you want to return to overdrive or auto mode, eg., stop light before getting onto an interstate onramp. How are you going to get it out of 2nd without pulling over? 3rd (listen to those revs) or 4th gear can handle it. User error, when the problem is poor design? At least the key cycle fixes it.

Gene, Thanks for the info. Our 2012 NV V8 has never had any problems using the overdrive lockout button on the shift lever. Except for slightly higher revs, it is unnoticeable going from 5th to 4th. Does speed have anything to do with the button not working? Is there a mph point where it won't work. Also is this a V8 and/or V6 problem? This is a very basic question, but what is the intended function of the manual mode? Axulsuv long ago said it should be used to prevent gear hunting and wasted fuel in certain situations. I get this. As such, it works great in city traffic or climbing hills. Descending works, but it seems you already have to be in the intended gear from the start. Is it intended to downshift? Our experience has been, no. You have to brake almost to the point where, perhaps beyond the point, where the automatic mode would downshift.

There were some issues with the sliding door not (?) locking, but who knows where that post is. (Reason to post these where we can find the topic and use the info.) The issue did not involve the door handle; rather, it had to do with the multi pin sensors on the door and door jam. I would lean that way, as it is normal for the handle to work the way you described when the van is locked. Have you tried the other key fob? A low battery or bad battery will cause the system to not work well or not at all. At least the door is locked and you can continue your travels in high crime areas. Depending on where you are, welcome to the west and the vast open spaces between NV dealers. I wouldn't worry about this until you get to Tahoe and can find a NV dealer. If I recall, it was an easy fix, but if parts are involved it will be at least 2 visits. Let us know what you think of the dealer who resolves and post this under "good service." Twice in the past year, we have been in the Tahoe/Reno area and it would be good to know where we can get service. 11/7 RICK's comment is the easiest fix. Since you have unloaded your van, did this fix it. If not, there is noticeably less resistance on the slider door handle than the passenger. Why?

Saw a cargo van with a chrome bumper that looked they went to "U-pull-em" and grabbed a bumper off a late 80s pickup. It fit but looked odd. Have you noticed how difficult it is to get these NVs moving backward in soft dirt, over a small berm or out of a depression? And once you get it moving, how hard it is to stop. That is what happened when I crunched the bumper. Ran out of road. No problems with manual mode/first gear this last trip, when I couldn't reverse to get it out of a depression in soft dirt.

Our '83 VW came with a propane tank, 2 burner stovetop (and 3 way refrigerator), which we used all the time. The only issue was a pin hole leak in the tank fill valve. We found a RV place near Monterey, CA and they replaced the valve, filled the tank and we were on our way. I don't know when SMB started adding microwave ovens to their conversions, but my initial reaction was "no way!" Our SMB conversion didn't come with a stove top. I was told they could not install a propane stovetop because they couldn't vent it properly; something about being too close to the gas fill. I didn't pursue this, so do not know if it had something to do with CA code or requirements to get the RV Industry Association (compliance with standards) badge they put on the back of the van. (Did you know that KOA can refuse entry without this badge?) An additional issue is ferry transport. In WA, when paying for a ticket, we were asked if we had propane. They reserve the right to inspect your tank before getting on the ferry. I told them we had a camp stove with propane, which didn't seem to interest them. So we have the microwave, and it has worked fine. Quick with little clean up. We have modified (canned for fresh) recipes to work with the microwave. You can still add fresh ingredients, bagged baby spinach, kale, peppers, carrots, tomatoes etc. The frozen food aisle is loaded with over processed microwaveable food to meet every taste and occasion. The main issue with a microwave is needing shore power or idling the engine. Read about someone whose microwave fell out of the cabinet in their camper van. Good thing microwaves are cheap to replace. We also have a Coleman Triton series 2 burner stove that we have to ignite. Propane canisters are cheap and easy to find. There is an adapter available for a larger tank. Much nicer cooking outside than it was inside our VW. We use a cheap Mr Coffee to make coffee in the morning and we have a toaster. Luxuries with heavy power drain unless on shore power. Solution is our campstove to boil water for tea and a good bakery. Even better is a cafe... What are you planning and what works?

We have added very little to our NV. Over 3 years, the CR Laurence "awning style" windows have worked flawlessly. I have, however, read that parts are hard to get when there is a problem. The only issue we have is the provided screens fit poorly and are hard to remove, so we leave them in place and don't worry about cleaning the inside of the lower portion of the window. Bugs have not come through the gaps, as I filed them with left over pieces of noseeum screen. We purchased driver and passenger door noseeum screens from skeeterbeater. Seldom use them as the ph offers great ventilation without them. We have often used the sliding door screen we made. Skeeterbeater sells screen material by the yard as well as magnets. The width is perfect and you only need to measure the length. The only issue is, you have to remove it to be able to shut the door. Not everyone would be comfortable with this lack of security, but we will leave it open all night. On the subject of screens, the ph screens are not noseeum. There have been complaints but nothing has changed. Don't know if this a durability issue or "we have always used these screens" on the part of SMB. We are trying to figure out a way to temporarily attach noseeum screen to at least 2 windows for cross ventilation. We have a hitch mounted bike rack that I do not like using. Always carried bikes and wheels on a roof rack. Not sure if we would ever go with a hitch mounted box, but it would be a good place to store a portable toilet. If we again attempt the Dempster Hwy to the Actic or the Trans Labrador Hwy, we may go with a tire mount. 2 spares are recommended. Add your plans and what works.

We did not have the option of a furnace, and we have not gone with a portable propane heater. It's not that we don't encounter cold weather, we feel there is no safe place nor room to place it. With the Penthouse (ph), it is like having a tent and it can get very cold. When the outside temp is in the teens, it will be in the 20s. To keep warm, we layer during the day and bring our cold weather bags and thermal liners. Still, it is cold until the sun hits you and you have had coffee or tea. As I've said before, the difference between a tent and SMB is that you have a comfortable place to sit. The ph offers great ventilation, but when it is hot and humid it is... It is cost prohibitive to home build a standard top with a ph. Last time I looked, it will cost close to $8000 for SMB to do this. Add another $1000 for an electric ph. As I get older, we may have to retrofit the electric top. The only savings will be in parts that can be reused. AC is not an option with a ph. If you install secondary ac on a high top, you pretty much have search for sites with shore power. If a generator can run it, where do you store it? So, what plans do others have and what works for you? We are interested because after 3 years, we may be approaching replacement. Hope not.

We decided against all of the above. I was given a tour of a converted Sprinter. When we got to the bathroom/shower combination, I was told, my husband "sometimes uses... I never do." Another reason came after watching the SMB Sprinter orientation video. When he knelt down to show the location of the blackwater tank valve, he said "Don't forget to wear gloves."

What works, doesn't? We increased water storage to 20 gallons from 10 gallons. The uninsulated tank sits centered on the subfloor under the sofa/bed, mostly in front of the rear axle. It can be filled from an outside connection with a hose from whatever threaded spigot you have access to. It also can be filled gallon by gallon via a direct connection to the tank, tedious. (I forgot to put the cap back on, and some spilled out going around curves or over bumps.) Why so much water? We're in the dry southwest. Also, national parks have no direct hookups and depending on the season the water is turned off. The tank is plumbed to a counter sink with pullout faucet, as well as an external shower at the back of the van. Hot water is available though a "flat plate" (engine heat exchange). Both work well enough to recommend, but the engine has to idle to get hot water. Temp will vary... There is a small gray water tank that we let drain into a large dish pan. Some parks have kitchen water disposal so it is easy enough to carry the dish pan there or wherever you can dump it. We do not drink the tank water even though the water is from potable sources. We are not alone in this practice, and we carry 10 gallons of bottled water to drink. We don't have to winterize in Tucson.

I'm sure that is what service centers use but it won't fit in the tool box in our NV. I'm better off leaving it to the professionals...

Let me start with this. I had no idea there was a 12 or 24 volts option for camper vans. I thought everything was 12 volts in campers. I recall, during the SMB orientation being told that the lights, water pump, carbon monoxide detector, inverter and refrigerator all were 12 volts and operated on 12 volts even when connected to shore power. The inverter has to be turned on to run the microwave other appliances and activate all electrical outlets whether or not you have shore power. But will they also work with a 24 volts set up? The refrigerator (Norcold) we have will because it is a 12/24 volts unit. Will a refrigerator be more efficient in terms of power draw and keeping things cool on 12 or 24 volts? KMG, you are excused from this unless you want to add what you consider the most efficient lighting, inverter, fans etc. Others can jump in with choices for what you run or not in your camper van.

Complicated to me but not you, which is intended as a compliment. I now get it. Thank you. Not to belabor this, but I have never looked at the batteries* nor was I aware that there are 12 and 24 VDC setups. Just looked at the SMB manual, the batteries weigh 130 pounds and the tray another 15. (*Too heavy for me to remove/replace. They are bolted on under the side door step.) SMB recommends they or a service center do the service. 3 yr prorated warranty on battery with initial 12 month replacement. Basically a car battery warranty. The warranty has expired, so we'll see how long they survive.

What? Are we talking about the same thing? If we are, my inner "any fool" has emerged... I only want to know how to attach a portable solar system cord to trickle charge the 2 house batteries. Do you just clamp it to the terminals on the first battery to charge both connected batteries? Initially, portable kits only came with alligator clamps and you had to buy a bolt on clamp with quick plug in at the other end. Now they come with both types of clamps, maybe not the quick plug in. If we decided to go with this, the bolt on and quick plug in is the only way to go given the placement of the house batteries.

No, no. That I get. You were too quick to respond, or I was too slow to clarify. I should have said connecting the portable solar connection wires, + and -, to the 2 house batteries. Do you connect the wire or clamps just to the 1st battery as you would in jumping a car or the + to the + on the 1st battery and the - to the - on the second?