Tatunka

From my experience you can do two things, one is to put A LOT of weight in the rear or two bring down the air pressure in the front and rear tires a little bit. Now if you are regularly hauling a lot of stuff it can be dangerous to lower tire pressures but if you are empty it won't hurt, just be careful when experimenting. The stiff ride is a trade off for the load carrying ability of these beasts.

I really like block heaters and was bummed that my NV did not come with one as I don't live in Canada. And on top of not coming with one I could not find a part number to order an OEM heater. So I went on to the Titan/Armada boards and found one that would work. The part numbers I found were Infinity numbers: Block Heater 11001-6P70A and Plug In 24076-3JA0A. I took a chance and ordered them up and they are the correct part numbers. Here is a link to a forum with picture and a good write up : http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/123916-titan-block-heater-diy.html The installation went fairly well, problems I ran into were; because I have the 4x4 conversion and fat hands the freeze plug removal and heater install were a PITA and required a lot of patience and long extensions, the freeze plug is a 12mm Allen socket and I needed a breaker bar and a lot of pressure to break it loose, a lot more coolant came out than expected so be sure to buy some ahead of time ( the blue crap from Nissan, I needed 2 gallons). Other than those things it went rather smoothly. I got to test it out in Bemidji, MN this week with temps in the -20 to -10 range and it worked beautifully, without the block heater my NV would start but not happily, now its happy. One more thing, I noticed in the owners manual that it is recommended to use a block heater when temps will be 20F or lower! Now isn't it interesting they mention that, but they don't install block heaters at the factory for northern trucks? WTH Nissan.

The good news: I know which wheel is causing the vibration. The bad news: The shop visit didn't fix it and the wheel tested round. I think I might know why. The new wheels are lug-centric and I didn't think about it until today :banghead: , so using a machine like the hunter will take away most of the imbalance but wont take all of the imbalance out with out using a lug adapter. Now sometimes the center bore will be centered enough with the lug hole that the wheel will balance fine, but sometimes the center bore doesn't and you will need to balance with the adapter. The OEMs are hub-centric with acorn lug nuts and won't have this problem. Now I have to make sure the shop balanced the wheels to the lugs or to the bore..., good times.

Thanks for the quick advice, So yesterday I pulled off the front tires/wheels and put on the OEM wheels and tires, and the wobble and the pull was gone! So then I put on the left side and no wobble or pull either. So I have isolated the problem to the right front tire/wheel combo. So now I have to take it in to the shop so they can verify that the wheel is out of round, which they should have already found!, and get a different wheel. Frustrating because I specifically told the shop to check the wheels for roundness, I hate doing somebody elses job after giving specific instructions. But I am glad I did! Now to the shop. Thanks guys.

I recently installed a set of wheels (18x9, 0 offset) and tires (BFG All-Terrain 275/70r18). After installation I had a really bad vibration, like the tires weren't balanced, from about 45-65. I had the local Nissan dealer, which is about 40 minutes away, balance the set during an oil change/warranty work and they came out worse than before. So not having the time to go back I took them to a local tire place and was told that it could be a road force variation and should be balanced on a special machine. Did that, same problem but way less vibration; did it again, no change; the tire shop says to warranty the tires that are the worst, they do that and I get two new tires on the front, still vibrating and now there is a pull to the right! Grrrrr. I am going to try a different shop with a newer Hunter GSP9700 and have them try. I might also trade fronts and rears to see if there is any difference. This has been very frustrating to say the least, I have had five sets of BFG's on different trucks and have never had a problem like this. I guess my question is, has anyone ever experienced this type of vibration that comes and goes at different speeds? And how did you remedy it? I am assuming it is the tires/wheels that are the problem because the OEM set rode perfect, should I be looking elsewhere?

Nice setup! I always think its funny to be parked at the campground and watch the people stare at the NV when they pass. Have fun with your expensive tent!

Sorry guys, I never checked back on this thread until now. My controller is a Teknosha Prodigy, to mount it I took the dash apart (pretty easy, just need patience) and took out the cubby. I drilled a hole for the harness to fit into and ran the wires to the trailer brake hook up under the dash. I secured the controller with a screw into the exsiting mounting hole on the contoller through the cubby. So far so good, no problems overheating, and its in arms reach in case of emergency.

I took a chance and ordered up some wheels and tires, here's what I got. 18x9 Ion 171, 0 offset 275/70 r18 BFG All Terrains Rubs the door, I can get it open almost all the way. I have a 2" lift So far so good, the ride is much more compliant and less jarring, I also lowered the rear pressures to 60psi. If you want to see pictures, I posted some in my Gallery.

I posted this earlier in Maintence section before we had this section. I personaly hate the DRL's on my van, if you do too it's very easy to turn them off. Under the hood, locate the fuse panels on the passenger side, open the one closest to the firewall (main fuse panel) and pull out the tray of fuses (there are tabs on either side and lift it up and out), locate the DRL fuse (F3, DTRL RELAY PWR), pull it out and no more DRL's and no warning lights on the dash.

I think a diesel was already planned for the NV. I think this because if you look at your dashboard warning lights, on the left towards the bottom I can see a "High Exhaust Temp" symbol light and a DEF Parked Regeneration light. IIRC the NV is made in USA for USA, so unless they plan to export the NV (which then the NV would NEED to be a diesel) the only reason for the warning lights would be a planned diesel. I would also buy one in a second!

Yeah, I was curious about your offset. I have been having problems finding an aftermarket wheel with an offset that is even close to +40, most that I found are +2 or 0. I would like to get 18x9 wheels for the added stability and with my math the wheel would stick out about 2 inches and with an inch of tire (at least) past that. I wonder if the tire shop would let me test fit a wheel and tire, mmm...

Looking for ideas and I am sure others are too, so... Post up your wheel/tire combos! Info to include -wheel size, offset or backspacing -tire size and brand -If the wheel/tire combo rub -impressions -vehicle mods (lift size for example)

The dealer told me that they deleted it from the menu options for 2013, even though its in the owners manual.

I get the not selling to a private party, I got no problem with that. It's when you ask an engineering type question and the company that designed/engineered the product gives you the run around then tells you to talk to a salesman, it gets kinda frustrating. That basically tells me that they have never tested the product or know how to use the product they designed. Now I know that is not the case, and I know they had someone there to answer my question, but the "customer service" rep didn't want to do their job and ask the engineering department. That's why it erked me. Like I said, hopefully it was a fluke. I am glad to hear that they fit and that you have had good luck with the CRL window products.

I have a set of the owens classic aluminum running boards, it is true that you have to remove the front factory splash guard. That being said, if you have access to a chop saw, or a sawzall for that matter, you could trim off about 3-4 inches and the running board would fit with the factory splash guard. I removed mine because I have a lift and larger tires and the splash guard wasn't really doing much. I replaced them with larger truck mud flaps.

+1^

I have a passenger van and have the original seats. They are comfortable but are not adjustable and it would probably be easy to install the tracks for them. If you want to have seats that are adjustable, aftermarket would be your best bet, then installation might be a little more difficult. As far as sources there are many conversion van part websites with a selection of seats, local dealers and conversion van shops would be where I would start.

Thanks for the reply, I'll be going to the dealer here in about a week for an oil change and to look at these items. Ill let you know what they say.

I am missing a few options/functions that are outlined in the owners manual. Missing MPG function on the dash info screen (Dealer said it was deleted for the 2013MY but is on p. 2-19) Auto window up (auto down works fine, p. 2-46, yes I tried to reprogram it) Turn signal lane change function (3 blinks when pushed up gently, p. 2-29) Hazards do not blink when vehicle is unlocked (p. 3-10) Sonar problem The sonar system works but is always on, meaning when going forward the rear sensors are active and vice versa. The front sensors should only be on when going forward and the rears when in reverse per the manual p. 2-32,33. Sliding Door Sliding door only locks/unlocks occasionally, the alarm works but does not always lock/unlock (this has been reported by others). My reasoning for the post is to find out if anybody out there has these functions/options operating correctly or are also missing these functions. And also if you have found missing options/functions report them so others may be able to help get them fixed.