Keathbordeaux@aol.com

Bought new it now has 107,000 miles on it, yesterday the VDC light came on and the truck bucked and surged, I pulled over and turned the truck off and then turned it back on again and it ran fine twice in one day, later that evening it broke down after the light came on and would not start again. I had it towed home but then it started fine the next morning, ran for two or 3 miles and the same thing happened again. While waiting for AAA to come after about 20 minutes I cranked it and it ran fine, two or 3 miles later the same thing happened again and it started on its own after 20 minutes, I was on the way to the dealer anyway. Turns out that the problem was that the crankshaft sensor needed to be replaced, a total of $365.

Thank you for that, and having exhausted my options regarding replacing just the smaller Blindspot mirrors; I was able to locate two exterior mirrors with the chrome trim in both right and left for $166.48 plus shipping and tax bringing the total to $192 on CarParts.com.

I have a 2012 NV high roof cargo van and love it. Passenger side exterior mirror took a hit, when the dust settled only the lower, smaller, parabolic "blindspot" mirror was damaged; glass and mounting ball on back of mirror housing are toast. Mounts inside that the mirror pops into seem to be intact. Dealer says I can only buy the entire pod/housing unit, $450. Anyone know where I can buy just the blindspot mirror, in case the manufacturer won't retail just one to me? Thanks, Keath Your Handyman 404-274-1689 or KeathBordeaux@aol.com

I figured it out, got a service manual on CD off of Ebay, took the door panel off, window and rear window track out. Disconnected the lock actuator (integral with the door latch) and opened it up. The main gear sprocket had a broken return spring, so I ordered a new one from a dealer, one day delivery. Relatively easy fix, $205 part, saved $350 over having the dealer do it. If you get a wicked buzzing when you lock the door I highly recommend just replacing the actuator ASAP. I use the truck every day for work and didn't want to risk it failing to the point where I wouldn't be able to lock it.

I have a 2012 NV 2500 HD, high roof. Just today there is a loud buzzing sound in the driver door, whenever the van locks itself on takeoff or whenever I lock it with the door switches, or the remote. It almost sounds like gears grinding... Any clues what the issue is and how to fix it? Thanks folks.

I have a 2012 NV 2500 HD, high roof. Just today there is a loud buzzing sound in the driver door, whenever the van locks itself on takeoff or whenever I lock it with the door switches, or the remote. It almost sounds like gears grinding... Any clues what the issue is and how to fix it? Thanks folks.

I have a 2012 NV 2500 HD, high roof. Just today there is a loud buzzing sound in the driver door, whenever the van locks itself on takeoff or whenever I lock it with the door switches, or the remote. It almost sounds like gears grinding... Any clues what the issue is and how to fix it? Thanks folks.

I have a 2012 NV high roof cargo van and love it. Passenger side exterior mirror took a hit, when the dust settled only the lower, smaller, parabolic "blindspot" mirror was damaged; glass and mounting ball on back of mirror housing are toast. Mounts inside that the mirror pops into seem to be intact. Dealer says I can only buy the entire pod/housing unit, $450. Anyone know where I can buy just the blindspot mirror, in case the manufacturer won't retail just one to me? Thanks, Keath Your Handyman 404-274-1689 or KeathBordeaux@aol.com

I have a 2012 NV high roof cargo van and love it. Passenger side exterior mirror took a hit, when the dust settled only the lower, smaller, parabolic "blindspot" mirror was damaged; glass and mounting ball on back of mirror housing are toast. Mounts inside that the mirror pops into seem to be intact. Dealer says I can only buy the entire pod/housing unit, $450. Anyone know where I can buy just the blindspot mirror, in case the manufacturer won't retail just one to me? Thanks, Keath Your Handyman 404-274-1689 or KeathBordeaux@aol.com

I'm not willing to play when the questions are about "an event". Be more specific please?

Thanks for that, I've decided to bite the bullet and run new wires, and put the Kicker powersports 6x9, 2 ohm speakers, inside enclosures, hanging from the ceiling over the cab area as my rear speakers, but I'm still looking for the rest of the information stated. I want to be as well prepared as possible once I get all the gear so the install will be easy and successful.....

I am working with a Crutchfield Audio advisor, to upgrade my factory radio and speakers, in my 2012 NissanNV 2500 High Roof cargo van. (I love this vehicle, 2 and a half years, 39,000 miles, driven every day, it's just awesome...). He suggested a Sony CDX-GT710HD head unit. I don't even want to think about an external amp for now, maybe I'll want one later. Infinity reference 6&3/4" speakers for the front doors, leave the tweeters in the dash for now... If I understand the Crutchfield advisor correctly, I will get a wiring harness free with the order to connect the new head unit to the factory wiring harness, and an antenna adapter. My questions for this blog community are; * Where can I find instructions (Crutchfield doesn't have them) to remove the front speaker grilles and/or door panels, and the dash trim to remove the old equipment, without damaging them? * Crutchfield doesn't list a steering wheel control adapter for this vehicle, would one for a Titan plug right in and work the same? * This van is full of tools on a built in shelf unit, so if I opt to hang some surface mounted speakers somewhere, as my 2 rear speakers, how do those get wired? In other words, when I am fiddling with the audio controls on the current factory radio/cd player, I can fade all the sound to the two front speakers, but none to the rear speakers, because NONE came in the vehicle. So, when I pull the old unit and wire the new one in, where and how do I locate what was supposed to be the rear speaker wire leads, so that I can tie into them and run new wires to wherever in the vehicle I'll be mounting the new rear speakers? Because after all, I am acting under the presumption that; ​* Is it impossible or inadvisable, to somehow during the installation of the new components, wire it up in such a way so that instead of adding a new set of (rear) speakers and running new wires, I can send the signal and power that should go into a rear set of speakers, into the front two? Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to help me out here!

Thank you, Shasta Lake, for your time. All this is quite new to me and I'm really not very tech savvy... Either you answered a question that I didn't really ask, or I wasn't quite as clear as I could have been... I am working with a Crutchfield Audio advisor, to upgrade my factory radio and speakers, in my 2012 Nissan NV 2500 High Roof cargo van. (I love this vehicle, 2 and a half years, 39,000 miles, driven every day, it's just awesome...). He suggested a Sony CDX-GT710HD head unit. I don't even want to think about an external amp for now, maybe I'll want one later. Infinity reference 6&3/4" speakers for the front doors, leave the tweeters in the dash for now... If I understand the Crutchfield advisor correctly, I will get a wiring harness free with the order to connect the new head unit to the factory wiring harness, and an antenna adapter. My questions for this blog community are; * Where can I find instructions (Crutchfield doesn't have them) to remove the front speaker grilles and/or door panels, and the dash trim to remove the old equipment, without damaging them? * Crutchfield doesn't list a steering wheel control adapter for this vehicle, would one for a Titan plug right in and work the same? * This van is full of tools on a built in shelf unit, so if I opt to hang some surface mounted speakers somewhere, as my 2 rear speakers, how do those get wired? In other words, when I am fiddling with the audio controls on the current factory radio/cd player, I can fade all the sound to the two front speakers, but none to the rear speakers, because NONE came in the vehicle. So, when I pull the old unit and wire the new one in, where and how do I locate what was supposed to be the rear speaker wire leads, so that I can tie into them and run new wires to wherever in the vehicle I'll be mounting the new rear speakers? Because after all, I am acting under the presumption that; ​* Is it impossible or inadvisable, to somehow during the installation of the new components, wire it up in such a way so that instead of adding a new set of (rear) speakers and running new wires, I can send the signal and power that should go into a rear set of speakers, into the front two? Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to help me out here!

I have the 2012 NV 2500 high roof, 6 cylinder. Don't know how much weight, but wooden shelving and lots of tools. I usually average 12 and a half to 14 mpg around town, lots of stop and go. I've averaged as much as 20mpg on the highway on long trips. This is the SAME mpg I got with the same tools in a Chevy Astro for 8 years. I am NOT complaining!

I want to install an aftermarket radio/cd player, and speakers in the doors. I am looking for detailed information including diagrams so I can remove the dash panels and door cards or speaker grills without damage so that I may successfully complete said installation. Also, very important; the company I'm working with (Crutchfield Audio) tells me they do not have a listing for an interface that will allow me to use the steering wheel controls with the new system, however they do list one that will work with a Nissan Titan. Will this unit work with my vehicle, a 2012 HV 2500 High Roof Cargo van? Lastly, does anyone know if there is a way to put all four channels into the two front speakers during the install so that I don't have to mess with trying to figure out where I would put a set of rear speakers? Thanks a lot for your time and help!