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Found 3 results

  1. So It Begins! Conversion to home comforts and work space/tool storage. Upper cabinets running length both sides, narrow cabinets with work surfaces on deck, rear doors area all tool storage, removable bed the width of rear above banks of sliding drawers out the rear. Big area for soft goods storage above driver. Fitted console storage. The insulation from homerdep wasn't enough and the temperature was only 20C but should have been 22C. The last quarter of the bottles didn't cure the same as the first mixture. It might have been low humidity that day too. I've been using greatstuff to fill in the gaps. I'll glue reflective bubble insulation to walls, with a gap and thin ply overtop. Floor is going to have 2 inches of hard foam, plywood on top with vinyl. Those are the two oval covers for nut/bolt access for suspension height adjustment?? I can't seem to find any reference in the manuals, including repair manual. I'm leaning toward keeping the access open but if those allow a simple 3" lift then maybe I should do that first, then ply over. Has anyone knowledge about this? Could it be easily put back into shape with an hydraulic press? These bumpers seem to be a popular part to replace! I got a replacement and de-rusted it. Need to still repair that corner. Several more areas need rust work repairs. The price was right! This side step was a real mess of plastic and I couldn't take it so it will be fitted with iron wood. Insulation glued to well. Also, I don't like all the handle grips so I won't put them back, they get in the way and so far I'm still nimble enough to crawl in without them! Still figuring out how to release the spare tire. It is rusted in place. The rods to turn the gear are all bent and twisted. Penetrating lubricant is in I just have to get time to bang around the accessible parts. Where in your conversion did you put the tire change kit and jack? That left side rear, cabin air exhaust vent seems weird to keep as all the walls will be sealed. Thinking about covering it and having another vent out for cabin air - even if only cracking the maxvent open. Other specs: 200W solar, 2 x 125amp/Hr batteries, 2000W pure sine wave inverter, diesel heater, Maxx air vent, no toilet or sink planned but a cooler as fridge is liikely as it is more work oriented for now.
  2. Apparently there is Extruded polystyrene shortage in NorCal and the clostest Home Depot carrying it is 200+ miles in the Bay Area. I was pretty set on either using Dow Styrofoam (blue) or Owens Corning Foamular (the pink panther kind), both XPS, in combination with dynamat and relfectix but the unavailability of it has made me reconsider Polyiso which is readily available. It's hard to know what the true pros and cons are as both product lobbys have publised their own studies regarding R Value retention and moisture resistence. XPS: -R Value more stable in lower temp -more resistent to moisture -more outgassing and way more greenhouse gasses -toxic fire retardent outgassing - lower melting point which may be reached behind dark sheet metal Polyiso: - higher base R value but drops by 25-30% around 30F - R value may degrade long term but probably less of an issue inside an RV where it's not expose to the elements as it would be outside a house -may absorb more moisture but issue reduced with foil facing. also the tests of submerging it in water seem extreme compared to the moisture it is exposed to in a camper so the technical difference of absorption may not be relevant in a camper -more fire retardent -less outgassing and no toxic fire retardent gasses -almost no greenhouse gasses during production -higher melting point of 260F -easier to attach and seal gaps between panels I think in the end both are probably fine options and not wanting to drive 8h round trip to get 4 2x8 panels of XPS I may go with Polyiso. Polyiso seems to be used more frequently in foam board insulation conversions, not sure if that is because it's better or because no one can get a hold of XPS. Thoughts or experiences anyone?
  3. Hello all! I'm not SUPER new to the forum, but I haven't posted much. One guy on here really went the extra mile to help me with stereo installation. Anyway... Im working on making my 2013 NV2500 S (high roof) a camper. The entire thing is now insulated with a combo of styrofoam and spray foam EXCEPT for the rear doors and the "archway" around the rear doors. I was wondering if anyone else out there has insulated these parts of their van and if they have tips. Obviously there are things I need to work around (mechanical parts inside the doors) and I'll probably have to remove taillights so I don't fill 'em with sprayfoam, etc. I guess what I really want to know is... is it worth it to insulate these parts and if so, do you have tips?
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