Mdsnyder108

I posted a couple of years ago to "largest tires on stock rims non lifted. Review and pics are there.

We have had Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock rims for a few years now and love them. I have Michelins on all our other vehicles and was hesitant to go with the Nittos. Wouldn't change a thing and we've taken them up to Jasper, done the James Bay road and some crazy "roads" through Quebec. They fit no problem on the stock rims.

I mounted a house battery under the hood and posted the pics to my Instagram page at nvcampervan. I went with an old-school deep-cycle lead acid battery which must be vented to the exterior if placed inside the van. They can/will release harmful gasses when charging so i didn't want them inside. It was fairly easy and I posted everything I used on there. You could go with Lithium inside but the expense is prohibitive. The alternator works perfectly to charge the battery we used. If you need more AH I would definitely place it under the floor attached to the frame on the passenger side provided you can find a battery holder that works on the NV. Good luck!

No bottoming out. Everything works perfectly after testing it on a couple of trips.

I know the question is a few months old but I have a high roof V6 NV2500 HD and run 285/75/17 AT tires on the stock rims. You definitely notice the extra effort but it it still has plenty of power. Remember, this thing is designed to carry a lot of weight and tow up to 7000 lbs with the V6. I don't tow or have a lot of weight in the van as its a camper. Maybe 800 lbs total without us in it. Highway mileage is unchanged. I get about 3 mpg less in the city now. I am running the new tires at 72 psi, at 80 it took a lot less effort to move the van. The nice thing is that it rides so much better. It just rolls over the bumps that caused the stock tires to shudder. Look at the post for the largest tire on the stock wheels I uploaded some pics there.

I have a 2012 2500HD SV high roof and used 6" Kawell lights and they work great and fit flush inside the bumper cutouts. Here's a link to what it looks like: https://www.instagram.com/p/BmqzAUenH_U/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghss82kp1e9h And here's the thread on how I mounted them: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWLEAK-l93A/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=jm1gdntip9h3 I was going for a clean look and it still let's air through (no problem with increased heat even with a trip up Mt. Washington). You can add the same lights for back up lights as well: https://www.instagram.com/p/BXv-8LJlVD9/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1pli339vbwvov

2012 V6 high roof conversion with approximately 700 lbs ad 207,000 miles on the odometer. We average 18-21.5 mpg highway depending on speed. 18 mpg at 75 mph , 19 mpg at 65 mph, 20 mpg at 60 mph, 21.5 mpg at 55 mph. The brand of gas matters with Exxon running the best in our V6. We don't get any milage improvement from using premium gas, just more power. That's contrary to my experience with Hondas and Acuras where you definitely get a milage bump from using premium. Our highway mileage has remained the same with AT tires (manually calculated as the computer is way off now) but city milage has declined from 15-16 mpg to 12-13 mpg. Tire pressure is set at 72 psi all around in 285/75/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2's. Tire pressure and speed seem to have a huge effect on milage in this van. I ran 80 psi in the Firestones to get the same highway mileage.

I put LT 285 75 R17 E121/118R Nitto Terra Grappler G2's on the stock rims. Everything clears fine. I was most worried about the spare, but it fits great. The closest they come to touching anything is about 3/4" between the tire and the top of the front control arms. The slider still has an inch gap between the tire and the door. The rear tires have 1.25" between the tires and leaf springs and the same clearance between the tires and the side of the wheel wells. Overall it increased the ground clearance 1.6" without a lift kit, just the tires. The van rides way better and has much better braking. Its like being on a fat tire bike, it just rolls over the things that caused the Firestones to shudder. I expected a lot more tire noise but it's actually the opposite, much quieter than the Firestones. I wasn't sure they would fit, there is a low roof Quigley 4x4 on here that has the same tires but is on a 2" lift. The lift isn't necessary for these tires. Combined tire/wheel weight goes from 80 lbs to 101. My highway milage is unchanged, but city has suffered a 3-4 mpg decrease with our V6, you probably wouldn't notice as much with the V8. I am running the tires at 72 psi all around vs. 80 psi all around on the Firestones. Overall, my worries about fit and noise were unfounded and I couldn't be happier. I think with the factory wheels you could possibly go slightly larger if the tire is able to be mounted on a 7.5" rim. The next size up is the only size larger in the Nitto's that still fits on a 7.5" rim and is 290/70/R17. They are 1/2" wider but also 1/2" smaller in diameter. Keep in mind the tire flexes as you drive so anything wider than the 285/75 and that flex might cause the tire to touch the front control arms, especially at lower tire pressures. Wider would also cause the tires to stick out beyond the wheel wells, as you can see these fit just perfectly without sticking out. There's only about a 1.5" clearance in front and back of the rear tires, so larger would be getting pretty close if you're going to be in areas with mud or snow. The diameter of these is 33.86" and the Firestones were 30.6"

We had this happen and found two things. First, unless you unlock the doors with the remote or a front door switch the inside latch won't work. Second, get out your owners manual and read the section about using the key to disable the inside locks. Not ideal for a camper, which is how we use ours. I can't figure out why Nissan would even have this feature.

I used Noico roll on sound deadening and automotive thinsulate over that. Crazy quiet. Only rain we hear now is on the outside of the Maxxfan. Noico on Amazon, automotive thinsulate on eBay. Thinsulate insulates and is a sound deadener.

I've got 208,000 on my V6 2500 with no issues. Just went up Mt. Washington and couldn't believe the newer cars overheating on a nice day at 55 degrees. Ran it on the worst roads I've ever encountered on the James Bay Route and Route due Nord through northern Quebec with no issues at all. When I say worst I've driven the Trans Labrador Highway and the Dempster. Great vehicle, getting 18-21 mpg even through the mountains.

Here's my dual battery install: https://www.instagram.com/p/BXDrT6yFCit/ The Off Grid Engineering Tacoma dual battery tray fits my V6 NV2500 perfectly. You do need to cut the factory mounts out and bolt though to the wheel well. Here are close ups of the clearance: https://www.instagram.com/p/BXDs7T_lKIS/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BXEH0GOlJ1O/ I am using the Tmax control system available on Amazon.

This is a copy of my post under the upfits thread: For anyone who is looking for the disconnects to put inside the two prong upfitter connector they are 9.53mm female disconnects. They go in with a very satisfying click and don't budge once they are in place. The same disconnects are used on both the engine side and the cab side even though the upfitter connector is different. I'm using them on the cab side as well, just without a upfitter connector until I can find it. Slide them on and put electrical tape around the housing to keep dust and dirt out. Available Amazon and ebay if you search for: TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 280755-4 TERMINAL, FEMALE DISCONNECT, 9.53MM, CRIMP (10 pieces) Pics and write-up on my Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWvG-JNFLiu/ You can use mini fuse tap adapters to connect power on the cab side if you need it. Some things will make sense to connect there and some will make sense to connect on the engine side. Pictures and write up here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWALKDsFVKK/ I actually did have the correct disconnects for the four prong connector as well. Search this Amazon or eBay: Uxcell Metal Female Spade Terminal for Nylon Multi-Pin Connector, 1.5 mm Width 50 Pieces Write up here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BW5r7PTlCqV/

For anyone who is looking for the disconnects to put inside the two prong upfitter connector they are 9.53mm female disconnects. They go in with a very satisfying click and don't budge once they are in place. The same disconnects are used on both the engine side and the cab side even though the upfitter connector is different. I'm using them on the cab side as well, just without a upfitter connector until I can find it. Slide them on and put electrical tape around the housing to keep dust and dirt out. Available Amazon and ebay if you search for: TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 280755-4 TERMINAL, FEMALE DISCONNECT, 9.53MM, CRIMP (10 pieces) Pics and write-up on my Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWvG-JNFLiu/ You can use mini fuse tap adapters to connect power on the cab side if you need it. Some things will make sense to connect there and some will make sense to connect on the engine side. Pictures and write up here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWALKDsFVKK/ I actually did have the correct disconnects for the four prong connector as well. Search this Amazon or eBay: Uxcell Metal Female Spade Terminal for Nylon Multi-Pin Connector, 1.5 mm Width 50 Pieces Write up here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BW5r7PTlCqV/

Yep, just match them up to the holes on the new headunit. The hardest part is not dropping the screws behind the dash.

I used the Metra 95-7603 Double DIN Dash Kit to fill that small gap around the headunit. Works perfectly. If you mean an installation kit such as brackets you don't need anything, any double DIN unit should fit, but you will have a gap around the headunit unless you get the piece of plastic like I listed above. You might need the stuff below if you want to use the factory antenna or keep steering wheel controls or add a backup camera if you don't have one already. Also used the Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna to aftermarket radio adapter to tie into the factory antenna. Also works perfectly. I used this wiring harness to keep the steering wheel controls and it also works perfectly with one footnote, two of the wire colors were in the wrong spots causing me confusion in the steering wheel controls. Details are listed in my review of the item on Amazon. 20-pin Subaru/Nissan Headunit/Radio Wiring Harness with Steering Wheel Switch wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9K3L44/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_gvRrzbZQXTT30 Finally, you will need the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal steering wheel control interface in addition to the wiring harness. Metra didn't have a radio wiring harness with steering wheel controls for the NV when I bought it last fall. They might now. Everything works perfectly now. If you're hooking up a reverse camera the reverse tie in is an orange wire in a 4 pin plug in the driver's side kick panel. It's right in front at the bottom on the right side of the plug when you pull the kick panel off.

Back to the original question about the upfitter connectors. My local parts guy couldn't find them in Nissan's system even with the part numbers from the body builder guide. It got me thinking that maybe they shipped on the NV. They are there, just pull back the electrical tape and you can disconnect the plug. Here's a link to pics on my Instagram page of the ones under the hood: https://www.instagram.com/p/BVE3cwdlZok/

I downloaded it here last fall. It's $16.95. Worked perfectly. http://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-nv-1500-2500-3500-service-repair-manual-download/

It's not what you are looking for but the body builder guide is free from Nissan and has a lot of stuff the service manual doesn't. You want the service manual for door panels. Here's the link for the body builder guide. http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/bbg.aspx

Download the service manual from here it's $16.95. http://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-nv-1500-2500-3500-service-repair-manual-download/ The CD from Nissan is $210. Looks a bit sketchy but I did it and it's perfect. Had no problems. Detailed diagrams and directions are in there for just about everything you will want to do to your NV. If you don't want to chance it I can send you a copy of the door instructions. Just send me an email.

I realize this thread is a couple of years old but didn't see the main reasons we chose our van on here so I will post them so it might help someone out who's in a similar situation. First, ours will be a camper van. Everyone has different needs so this will be oriented towards a conversion. We had a very positive experience with a Nissan camper van in New Zealand and lived in it for 60 days over their winter. It had 200,000 miles on it but never let us down and was very sound mechanically. We have been Honda/Acura owners for 30 years and first and foremost wanted a reliable, safe vehicle that was easy and inexpensive to operate and repair. Like it or hate it, the nose of the NV adds a lot of safety in my opinion. Cab over engine is better for visibility, but not in a crash. It's also not as easy to work on in general. The Nissan in New Zealand​ had seats that tipped forward kind of letting you access the engine. The mechanic we took it to for an oil change says those are generally more difficult to access. We also constantly hit our heads in that van, hence deciding on a high roof. I'm also 6'4". We wanted something that drove more like a car and was stable in cross winds as the Nissan in NZ was absolutely horrible in both regards. This van is great. We wanted a V6 non-turbo gasoline engine for ease and cost of maintenance and ease of finding fuel when in out of the way places (diesel can sometimes be difficult to find). Had to fit a queen size bed due to my size and still have room to stand at the end of the bed and have a kitchen area. My parents always had Fords and they were always in the shop, my friends had Chevys and they were rusted. Both are legacy designs that didn't interest us as well. Fuel filler intrudes on living area. Once I started researching the newer van designs I came to the conclusion that sprinters have a lot of issues that are expensive to repair. Milage is good, but not much else in my opinion. Dodge (Fiat) is not reliable in my opinion and is uncomfortable. Ford had a really low floor so not good on ground clearance. Wouldn't ever go that route after watching my parents put money into them over and over either. And now the other things that have already been said. Good seats, great price used, build quality and reliability, car like drivability and ability to convert to 4wd. The good ground clearance is also a plus. Just my 2¢.

Pretty sure I've seen it on multiple dealer websites for $499. One is on eBay right now that looks new for that price. Good luck.

Sorry, I don't check this very often. The Escape rental was in New Zealand. I believe that the one in California is a franchise. In NZ a different artist paints each one. Everyone you see points and waves as they aren't common. Very basic layout. I'm taking that layout and making some adjustments to make it more functional. Will post to Instagram as I am able. Jucy vans are everywhere in NZ and are much newer. As far as modifications on my van we did the Maxxair fan, awning style Herr side windows with screens, Jensen VX7022 radio with steering wheel controls, backup camera with LED third brake light, new Focal speakers, Nissan front window air deflectors, Nissan rear windows with defroster grid lines and LED headlights backup lights and cargo area lights. That's what is complete. Bought but still need to install auxillary LED high beams, auxillary LED backup lights and DRL's, house battery with isolator and finish up insulation and sound deadening. We bought our van with 200,000 miles on it. That's not normal for me. We normally get a new Acura ever three years or so for each of us. Our experience with the Nissan van in NZ that also had 200,000 miles was great, but it was definitely driven like a rental by a lot of young people who don't know how to maintain vehicles. I was amazed when we got home and found this van for $12,000 that looks and drives like new. I did the research and found they are made for an 800,000 mile service life and don't have the problems other manufacturers have with their vans. I had the local dealer go over it and replaced all the fluids. I just get happier and happier. Will be using as a camper van in northern Canada/ Alaska. Have done the Dempster and Labrador highway multiple times and this should be great on those roads. Sorry if I hijacked this thread. New to this.

I found pics a few months ago on a Titan forum and others on a Frontier forum for two batteries mounted in the factory position. I am looking at doing the same thing. Isolators are readily available on Amazon. When my battery was out over the winter I pulled up the plastic tray underneath and the fender is already drilled with holes. Should be just a matter of putting in aftermarket trays and bolting them down well. I made mock-ups from cardboard and they fit perfectly, with more room than what you see in the Titan pics. Just Google "dual battery Nissan Titan" and look at the pics that come right up. Will post pics when mine is done, but that might be a month or two

I used Noico adhesive mat directly on the metal with automotive Thinsulate on top. No smell at all and I'm sensitive to that. Automotive Thinsulate also helps with sound deadening. Noico gets the low frequency and Thinsulate gets the higher stuff. Check both Amazon and eBay. Sounds like a luxury car now. Pics and more info on my Instagram page. https://www.instagram.com/p/BOcepypDATG/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BOcfTU1DFuK/