xavman

Out of curiosity, anybody know if the grill size is the same as the Titan? I am thinking about getting a grill cover for winter driving since the rear heater sucks.

May be late to need, and the party, but perhaps a truck stop with an automatic Truck wash?

Something to think about is: 1) make sure you car is running (or on) this entire procedure, and, 2) Understand that you need to make sure you drop each tire by 10PSI (i do 15, but really just drain each tire for at least 30secs) each (to trigger learning readiness) AND [then] set each tire to the calibration pressures (listed by everyone) prior to hitting relearn on the menu. - What this means is that you can have the DR set to 80, drop the pressure by 10 (15 to be safe), and then bring back up to 80. This allows you to avoid over-pressurizing the tire.

Most modern cars have the parts to handle higher levels of ethanol. the differences between 10% and 15% ethanol are likely negligible to the seals etc that are ultimately susceptible. The truth is though, that there is no reason or benefit for using more ethanol, especially for the 3500s (cannot speak for the 1500 and 2500 vans). the fact that ethanol is cheaper should also be informed by the fact that there is less energy in 10% ethanol gas vs 100% gasoline. Most cars get poorer MPG when running ethanol blends. the bigger the beast (heavier the car), the less effective a 10% ethanol blend is compared to straight gasoline. So, CHPHILO, there is no reason for you to ever consider using anything but straight gasoline (or 10% gasoline if you have no choice).

Anyone done or thought about applying truck bed liner spray to the exterior roof to protect from tree branches etc? If so, details? Impacts to speed/mpg?

Guys, Take this for what it is worth. I chose to go with the 75s (Michelin MS2s). So far no troubles - ride feels better but that could be part imagination. The wheel well can easily accommodate the extra 1 inch total diameter. I will say that my speedometer is now MORE accurate (based on GPS devices measuring speed). I think Bates is right, when restricting oneself to the CARGO. Looking back, all wheel databases (Tirerack etc) do NOT distinguish between cargo or passenger. However, because they are identical platforms (excepting interior), this makes me even MORE okay with the upfit to a 75. Realizing that these cars are cargo-borne bastards, the speedometer mismatch makes all the more sense. Nissan did not likely recalibrate the speedometer for the passenger 70s. Pete is right - the size of the placard on the door says 70 for my passenger 3500. Not sure why Nissan made the 70/75 distinction. It should have stayed standard to the 75 to accommodate cargo and passenger, 1500/2500/3500. But like Pete said, and I verified with calculators online, we are talking about 1 inch extra diameter. That means I ride 1/2 inch higher...no biggy. So Rick - I hear what the color ad is selling, I just ain't wanting to stay on target. The 75 offers more weight protection (evidence: 75s are standard on the 3500 Cargo). My personal suggestion is go to 75s when ready to change out tires.

May sound weird, and forgive me for the fact that I may use unofficial terms or language, but here it goes: - My 2012 Nissan NVP3500SV (V8, 5.6L) has LT245/70R17E stock (from the dealer,, bought new). The manual says to use this same size as does the inside of the door jam. seems pretty straight forward, right? - Every tire website or dealer I visit now says that OEM is LT245/75R17E. Every time I talk to a living person, they reference some book that mentions the right size to be 75 and not the 70. So, wtf? Is my car a glitch? Did the wrong crap get thrown onto it out of the factory? is a 75 going to make any real differences? why does all current knowledge call for the 75 when the manual calls for the 70? can i follow the modern 75 recommendation or do I really need to stick to the door jam 70? 2012_NV_Passenger_Owners_Manual.pdf

Need help from someone on this one...it started with my son and a small toy. My son brought his toy into the Nissan NVP 3500 2012 SV. He dropped it, perfectly, into one of the floor openings (notches). Need/want to get it out and was wondering if anybody knows of a way to access underneath the floating floor.

So I was looking at the front of my 2012 Nissan NVP 3500, 8 Cyl, Regular roof. The NISSAN symbol on the front of the front grille is peeling inside the lettering, which hints to me this is not a bonafide chrome piece. Anyone have experience with this? Recommendations? I would rather replace the whole grille with something a little more "built to last." Anyone know if the NVP 3500 grille specs are the same as the same year Titan? Or anyone know of a grille out there that would fit?

So here is the "Official" story from both the dealership and your manual. The vents are not dual use. The ceiling rears are for a/c only, while the ground vents are heat only. The vents that are in use are thus tied to whether you are running hot or cold air. In my personal experience, the rear system is weak and pathetic. To get any real benefit, i usually run at near max settings. However, based on your statements, I would recommend taking it into the dealership for some repair service, which should still be covered by the warranty. It could be a blower motor. Ours had a "clog" originally.

Any chance you can give us a little walkthrough tips so us more adventurous types can start strategizing?

I would love to know this too.

No searchable video called 00333

Sadly not likely. If you got the money, invest in the tuner, a high flow muffler, and high flow air system. And use the cruise, because this chunky chick likes to go fast.

Easier way is to open the glovebox, squeeze in the 2 black side posts, and pull out the whole glovebox. Still have to do all 7 bolts. Don't go to Nissan for the filters, they (per record) have no filter for the NVP. I got mine from Oreilly or Autozone (2012 Nissan NV3500 SV V8 5.6L).