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That's the way it reads to me (after Jerry got me looking at the correct fuse box).

Caryn, Thanks for taking the time to follow up on all this - the information is very useful. BTW - I think you will find that the 12v console outlet is "always live" unlike the dash outlet which goes on and off with the ignition - best to check me on that though.

Caryn, Another question relating to your center console and 12v outlet for it: Since your NV did not ship with the center console, can we assume that the 12v outlet was not in place for use as well? If you added the 12v outlet in addition to the console, would you share for future reference the procedure/path you used to route the wiring thru the firewall?

Caryn, To clean up some unanswered questions on this thread, did you wind up removing the plastic back on the passenger seat? And if so, did it pull directly off? If not, would you share the removal procedure for future reference?

Jerry, I have no fuse in that position. I'm wondering if it is #18 from pages 150/151? Just sitting here on the couch not wanting to go out into the cold to confirm

Edgar, I hope you don't give up on the NV for your build. Reading thru a few of your past posts, it is apparent that it meets practically all of your requirements except for length - and that length is important mainly so that you will have room for a full wet bath area. We have a 2012 NV 2500 that is "fully converted" with everything except the wet bath area. We rolled it across the CAT scale recently while FULLY loaded and found it to weigh in at 8700 lbs. So If we had incorporated a wet bath and all that goes with it we would be overweight when tanks were full - if not before. I'm not very happy about the 8700 lbs either, but it is what it is - haven't found much I'm willing to throw overboard. So be aware that weight creeps up on you quickly when making it just like you want. And, the more space you have, the more the weight adds up. We don't dry camp or boondock other than an occasional emergency so we have never missed the wet bath feature. And, I never have to winterize. Our rig is ready to go immediately - any time of the year. We came to the NV from a "small" 27' Coach House because we wanted even more mobility and the capability of fitting into a regular parking space. Best move we've made lately - love the NV and intend to drive it till completely used up.

Posting a photo of my fuse panel (2012 2500 S trim pkg). Maybe by comparison you can figure out Which fuse it is / I'm guessing one of the 10s. Better yet if someone who knows this looks at the photo and tells You exactly which one it is.

After 7 or 8 wks of sign-in misery, the problem seems to be corrected - at least I hope it is. This forum website has been remembering my sign-in information for several days now.

Perhaps this will be of some help. I am posting screen captures from the nissanfactoryparts.com website. They are illustrations from their parts diagrams - exploded views. This exploded view shows the backside of the passenger seat plastic cover - part #9. It should give you some idea of how it attaches. Best news is that it is only a $40 part if things go wrong.

Ok - reads like you'll be able to reuse the disks from the armrests as your covers. You'll just need some upholstery foam to make the plugs. Sounds like the disk is a friction fit push on solution. I'm stumped on how to remove the plastic back on the passenger seat - but do finally understand why that is necessary. My guess is that it pulls off but I'm not willing to break mine to find out. Traffic has been very slow on the forum for several weeks. Eventually you'll have your answer.

The eBay link is not working. Perhaps you can copy and paste the information from that page.

My 2012 NV2500 came with the console and therefore no armrests - so I have no experience with them. Here is a comment from someone responding to a similar question on Amazon : "On the down side if your van has arm rests on the seats, it will not fit. You will either have to change the seats, or remove the arm rest and use a grinder to grind off the welded attachment point, this will work but leaves a hole in the side" So, I'm guessing you know all that by this point. If you can, post a picture of those "welded attachment points". Maybe someone can help you from there. If the weld points don't protrude, perhaps we can figure out a cover - but we need to see what we're working with. But, in the meantime, you're on the right track. Keep posting this in different categories until you find someone that knows. Try the specific vehicle category. BTW - why do you need to remove the plastic tray on the passenger seat - just curious.

Caryn - give us some more info. Which part of the process has you stalled out?

Very interesting addition. Looks like an excellent opportunity for an extended write-up if you find the time. I'm sure many of us are interested in the details. westyventures.com has some good information on these Propex units and also show several build examples. About your ladder - where did you source it and is it chrome or black anodized?

My 2012 high roof has a piece of rubber safety step tread that I bought from Home Depot. It still chips all around it, as you can see.

It's a mystery. Sits up high but has an E badge instead of an F. Either way - it seems to spend most of its time at one repair shop or the other.

We have this Ford in town - the only one of its kind I have seen. Don't know the model year.

Your NV build is getting more intriguing week after week. Dr. Who and the TARDIS have nothing on you since you both obviously majored in trans-dimensional engineering. Can't wait to see the finished product. Keep the posts coming please.

Lifeline - just a battery brand - lifelinebatteries.com I obsessed about it long enough and they made it to the top of the short list. I ran my cable down and under - exactly what you are told not to do. However, I'm satisfied with the result. I was also under the constraint of a conversion that was basically finished and I didn't want to mess things up. I sheathed the cable in non-metallic (flexible plastic) liquidtight conduit - tough as a boot. It took less than 25 ft to run it back to the rear tire well (entry point). The cable/conduit combo is attached to the passenger side of the ladder frame rail. There are sufficient holes already in place to adequately attach the conduit. I cut some sticks of HDPE plastic 4 to 5 inches long and placed a slot in the middle. Threaded a regular cable tie and a stainless steel cable tie (for good measure) thru each one. Then just inserted the HDPE into the cavity of the boxed frame rail. Held tension on it while securing the conduit - hasn't loosened so seems to be secure. I'll attach some pics. Pinch and zoom should show you some details. BTW - if anyone spots any errors or dangers in any of this, please let me know. I seriously don't know what I'm doing - learning as I go - but it seems to work just fine.

Thanks Ted - I switch to the full site view and filed a report.

We just finished our first trip (14 days/2500miles) since connecting our Ctek system (250s Dual & Smartpass). It exceeded all expectations! I'm just running a 125 amp hr Lifeline at the moment. But discovered it is adequate to run our small Indel b unit that we use as a freezer and the larger 110 liter unit that is set up for refrigeration. In moderate temps it looks like it will run both for 15 to 18 hours and not draw down below 12.5. This trip involved so much driving I let the battery run things at night just so I could watch it charge up the next day. It was really great to not have our food sloshing around in a cooler and we didn't have to buy ice (Southeners have to have their iced tea) the entire trip. Next project is to integrate a solar panel - which should be easy enough since the Ctek system is prewired to handle it.

Anyone else having trouble with this? The site has suddenly started dropping my sign in info (not remembering me from session to session and sometimes during a session of viewing). I view this website exclusively on an iPhone and did recently upgrade to the new iOS. So wondering if that might be the problem or if others are experiencing the same thing.

BTW - like the flooring job.

Did you try gently persuading them with a heat gun? Not much to lose since you're willing to give them away.