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Thought I'd post some photos of our solution for window covers. These are DIY (with the help of an upholstery shop that attached the bias tape). The windows in the two cab doors and the side slider accept a friction fit solution. We made the two for the back doors oversized so that they could span across the flat areas. They attach with rare earth magnets that are glued in place. The blue is a layer of painters tape to help protect the paint from the magnets. Thin, fan fold windshield sunshade - upholstery fabric - spray adhesive - bias tape - and the help of an upholstery shop. Total cost to cover five windows - approx $120. Add the cost of scotch guard if needed or wanted.

Have you considered the Ctek d250s dual? It lets you keep everything stock.

Hey, wasn't passing out thunks intentionally - appreciate your good humor. Look to see if the "helpful" advise being offered is coming from the driver of a Class A with abundent storage space. That said - same person will usually loan you any tool you need as long as you let him/her talk the entire time you are using it.

I'd keep the AAA membership card (and my cell phone) and jettison the rest. Don't you have three dogs on board already? Space is limited - save it for their stuff. Besides, are you seriously going to be changing spark plugs on the side of the road? Or even fixing a flat tire when you have a membership? I carry an assortment of compatible fuses and a very good tire gauge. Past that and it's hard to find a stopping point.

It's been installed for 2.5 yrs. Unfortunately, the van sits outside exposed to any weather Arkansas can throw at it - which includes a lot of high humidity. I'd use GTMAT again. Price was okay and I was more than pleased with the results. Insulation - now that's another can of worms. Opinions and preferences flying every which way.

I used GTMAT sourced thru eBay. No noticeable smell and bonds well to a clean surface. Just be sure to roll it in well. I covered the entire floor including wheel wells. The sidewalls and ceiling do not need complete coverage. Just space out 6"x6" or so pieces wherever it is convenient. Do the same inside the slider and rear doors. The results are amazing.

I have homemade shades for my cab door windows. They are made starting with the cheapest folding windshield shade that Walmart sells. I spray glued fabric to the inside surface of it and cut it to fit. Had an upholstery shop run some bias tape around the outside edges and they also stitched a line along each crease fold. They just friction fit into place and so far they have always stayed put. The bias tape helps with durability.

Got it - like it - would buy again. It's thick and heavy duty. Close to custom fit - fine for general sun blocking- but not enough length to completely block for conversion van privacy (also, there is that entire area open for the rear view mirror). I've had this for 2.5 yrs and it has held up very well. I do wish it had a slip case for storage. Do a search on this forum - seems like someone mentioned a source for this that also offered a case.

I'd have my tires checked for damage, balance, etc. - maybe even the drive shaft. Your window may be the voice of another problem.

Gedigan - Lee - Any chance you'll be launching your website anytime soon?

My question was directed at Dented who posted a pic of his rig along with his comments. I was curious about what is on the forward portion of the exterior roof (rectangular in shape, or so it appears).

Laharview - Back in Nov you asked - "Does it keep cold enough overnight with an outside temp around 60 F or do you keep it running?" Sorry it has taken so long for my reply - I just found my notes after misplacing them. I did this check during the winter so I had to reverse night for day to get the temps you requested. After an overnight temp of 45 deg and with no heat running in the van, I filled the unit with 4 large bottles of pre chilled water from the household refrig. I then ran the indel b for two hours before shutting it off. The inside temp was 42 deg. I did not open or run the unit again for 8 hrs. At that point the outside air temp was 65 deg and the van had been sitting in partly cloudy conditions all day. So after 8 hrs of "coasting", the internal temp of the indel b was 58 deg. Not the best of results - but replace even one of those bottles of water with a bottle of ice and conditions will improve dramatically. We used the indel b extensively on a recent trip and this time had it set to freeze solid. Each night, while plugged in to shore power, four bottles were frozen solid. We used these the next day to cut down on the bagged ice we needed for our larger 75 qt conventional cooler (Brute/Buffalo brand). It was mainly an experiment but showed me that it will also freeze like crazy.

Dented - If I may ask, what is the dark rectangle on your roof? I'm guessing vent fan but the shape is throwing me off.

Didn't realize you could order less than a set of four - thanks for mentioning that.

Another source I've used is factorynissanparts.com out of Texas.

Usually about $75 per set on eBay. I have one that has been glued together for over two years after I clipped a "gator" - doesn't look bad enough to replace it yet. :-)

Very impressive! Well done!

Bottom line - you're okay as described - don't worry about it.

Jerry - I think I need to clarify. I'm installing a dc to dc charging system (ctek d250s dual / smartpass) in the cargo area. Which is why I'm running the wiring from the engine compartment to a location near the rear tire well (passenger side) where my new batteries will be. What I'm not doing is trying to charge the main starting battery with an AC current/plug-in/Ctek smart charger. And I also need to correct myself. I'm running a #2 stranded cable and not a #4. It is approx 17 ft in length. What I am doing is similar, I think, to what anyone setting up a killer audio system would be doing. Which is to install a large supply cable. I just need to know how that large cable was connected.

Double Yikes !!

Yes - probably two AGM deep cycle back in the cargo area near the wheel well. I know - #4 is overkill for this purpose but who knows what the future holds - only wanted to run it once.

Can I put a ring terminal on the new #4 cable and attach it to the stud and nut directly behind the top post without interfering with the proper functioning of the fusible link cluster? I know I could attach behind the forward post terminal nut but it is much smaller - so I wonder if that would be an adequate connection? Both places for a possible connection appear to be connected to each other - so again I'm wondering if any harm comes from using the larger connection that is immediately beside the 140 amp fuse?

Jerry - thanks for the reply and the PDF attachment. A 27 should fit and I will go that route also. My battery is actually still good but I am ready to replace it as I finally activate the Ctek dc to dc system I have been working on. I am probably chasing a unicorn but I'm hoping to find a dual post battery with the positive terminals on the right. So far very difficult to find. Dual positive on the left is fairly common. I've just about given up on finding an adapter that will convert a regular battery to a two post. I don't want to mess with the fusible link box setup and was thinking that a dual post battery (one on top/one on the side) would be an easy way to also attach the #4 cable that will feed the Ctek unit. I'm open to ideas.

2012 2500 high roof V8 without tow pkg. Is my battery a size 24F? Dimensions are approx 10-3/4 L x 7-1/4 W x 8-1/2 H. Anyone replaced their battery yet? Which size did you go with?

Any chance you could post a pic of the general area? And a close-up if possible?