wollip

Excellent point!

No noise problem (rattling) on mine - yet. And haven't heard of any elsewhere. After installation of the fan and after finishing up the ceiling installation, noise or a water leak seem like the prime indicators of a problem. Seems to me that noise (rattling) could be caused by different things besides failed spot welds. If you will measure openings between each set of ribs, I think you will find that the available space varies slightly with each set. If that is the case, you might want to choose the set with the most clearance. After the cut, reinforce the cut with some jbweld or similar product if you're still concerned. You should be able to work it between the metal layers somewhat. I can't recommend placing anything forward of the first rib. Structural integrity aside - I wouldn't want the extra noise it might create being that far forward. But, pick your spot and let us know how it all works out for future reference.

I agree with andy__george. Keeping it clean goes a long way. Having said that, I did apply an undercoating type product to my rear tire wells for two reasons. First, I wanted the tire wells to be black - purely my preference for how it should look. Second, I wanted to cut down on heat transfer from that area into the cargo space. A product called MetalShield (from metalshield.com) worked very well. I applied it with a cheap disposable brush and recoat once a year for appearance sake.

Update on my transmission indicator lights on the meter. Short 60 mile trip today through rolling hills with an outside temp of 90 deg. Showed 6 light bars or 3 groups of 2 ( I realize there might be two ways of looking at this). Still nothing to worry about according to other posts in the forum.

I did what you are suggesting with no problem three years on. I did decide to keep the very back light above the rear doors for an emergency light (but I usually keep it switched off). I repositioned it after the ceiling was installed.

Varies between 3 and 4 bars on mine and it is a rv type conversion that added 1200+ lbs.

And they are finally lowering the price on the 2013 high roof conversion at Wilder RV referenced earlier in this thread.

Best of luck with the project - keep us posted.

I agree - we need a Classified section out front!!!

Mahu - Good to hear from you - hope that your conversion is going well. Nearly 3 years since I installed mine in the forward position between the first and second ribs - centered left to right. You will want to follow instructions and provide a full 14 inch square opening. Memory tells me that to obtain 14" front to back I had to partially cut the welding flange (where what I call the pinch welds are located) down the sides of two facing ribs. It shouldn't effect the integrity of the ribs. I am in the South and must have AC - otherwise I would have put my fan in the back. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

I applaud your go-to-it enthusiasm. You knew what you wanted and sourced exactly what you needed to accomplish your vision. Boat parts are not cheap. In fact, their high price tag nearly always reflects their high quality. Having said that, I shudder when I look at the severed rib in your roof and the location of that rib. I slept on this reaction before commenting - not wanting to be negative without cause. But I have a nagging feeling that you need to take steps to stabilize this cut while you still have the ceiling open. My concern is for your sliding door mechanism over time. If this was a cargo container sitting in your backyard, I wouldn't worry about it. But it isn't that at all. This is a moving vehicle subject to vibrations, potholes, uneven road surfaces (twisting), etc. I am afraid that all of that is setting you up for some form of failure later. A major structural component has been severed and there is now only sheet metal - the roof panel- holding it all together in that area. I hope I am wrong about this but it would worry me until I did the following. I would have a tubular steel cage (flat rectangle) fabricated and welded into place on the two exposed ends of the severed rib. I think you could use Sitka caulking to bond the metal roof to the cage after it is installed. I would do this to lessen the chance of the metal roof failing in the corners of the cut (due to flexing over a period of time). It is obvious you have the skills to hide this "bracing" as you install the finished ceiling at some point. I'm guessing that the finished ceiling opening will also secure the frame for the insect screen that you build. Anyway, give this some reflection time and I also hope others on the forum will give their opinion. Keep up the good work and many thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing your other ideas.

About the regular grade, good to know. I've got the V8 and have never had the motor ping or chug - just keeps going. Run it on regular grade 90+ percent of the time. An 8 degree slope is usually the steepest thing I encounter - except for eastern Tennessee.

See there, Rad, looks like you're a Sage from the land of sagebrush. All of your time and effort lies dormant waiting for Google search to sprinkle a little water on those desert flowers.

pure-gas.org is a user updated list of all the ethanol free gas stations in the US. There is also an app for iPhone called Pure Gas that will tell you the stations near you as you travel. Both of these are fairly accurate and up to date. However, when traveling I have learned not to search too far out of the way or I become the guy to update the database about a closed station.- plus no gas in the tank. I have also learned from the contributors to this site not to worry about the occasional tank of ethanol contaminated gas ( seems it burns hotter and occasional use might help clean out the fuel lines). And this flat-lander also learned to pay for the premium grade when I visit the mountains. I don't think I would have thought of that on my own.

Rad- To upload a photo to the forum from any mobile device you need to start by switching to Full Site instead of using the mobile version. Then all of the options will be visible to you.

Rad Every so often I check on the high roof conversion you posted about months ago. It is at Wilder RV in Port Angeles, WA. It is a "brand new" 2013 for 64K. I'm amazed that it hasn't sold - dealer must be locked on that price.

I am in the MidSouth area (Arkansas) and know nothing about the Western regions of the country. Always enjoy your travel write ups. You explore many more areas with two wheel drive than I would have thought possible.

Nice - thanks for sharing.

I think Jonathan Lindsey is on the right track. At 1000 lbs he must be pulling an enclosed cargo trailer. If you're not opposed to towing, you'll find a cargo trailer to be very versatile. Toy hauling when you need it and they can be equipped with fold down bunk beds (or singles) on the sidewalls. Sounds like you are in the northwest with hopefully a moderate climate. Perhaps you could get by with just a vent fan for the roof. I'm afraid you'll experience misery trying to sleep four in an NV of any type. Just not enough room for people plus gear. So I'd vote for the NVP and a cargo trailer to cover your scenarios.

The rebadged NV200 provides a glimmer of hope. Without a Chevy or GMC connection, I wonder how long Nissan will continue to produce our vehicle - given the relatively low sales numbers. (Can of worms alert - open it up

Something is obviously wrong - but will it ever be found?

And yet you keep it. I can see how your low usage makes it hard to justify the $ hit of a trade in. But when gas returns to $4 and above I think you'll wish you had traded it earlier.

Great idea! Please let us know how it works out.

This is one of our most frequently asked questions. Sign up and do a search of the site. VanGuy did an excellent detailed post on this in 2013 with photos. Welcome to the forum!