crusty

The 4.0 is well known for not accepting boost. Years ago there were many attempts made, find them at club frontier. As far as I know, they all resulted in a blown up engine.

That would be harder than you expect. Get one from a van. There are a bunch of little things that are different. The engine to ECM harness is longer on the van, fan shroud different, etc. Buy a whole rolled van so you have everything. You will struggle and spend more money by just getting an engine and trying to chase down all the little things that are differnet.

Hard to say. First guess is tire balance and 55-60 is the sweet spot where you feel it. Warranty won't touch that.

Correct, steering stop. They wear when the suspension is stroked while at full lock.

What are N6 wheels? Post some pictures. Words are not working to describe what you have and what you are working with.

You are talking unicorn material for this board. What you will find around here is North American products. Even the NV200 we have here is different than what you have there. Ours are about 6" longer than the European versions. You get diesel and manual transmission options, we only get gas with CVT. And the NV2500/3500 are truck based body on frame. You are going to have to go more local to find the information you are looking for.

Just a follow up. Got a china special but added an afterburner controller to it. Mounted in a stainless box under the floor, above the exhaust. Sucks air through the slide door foot well and a floor vent in the middle of the floor. Fuel tank is next to the washer bottle behind the driver's headlight. I did have a fuel gelling issue once when in 0° weather and 30MPH steady winds in Texas last December. I never planned to run in that cold of an environment. That happened at 7AM so I didn't feel bad about calling it a night and getting back on the road. Still stayed warm enough. The 2kw works fine down to mid 20's even at altitude.

Antennas for blue and pink connections. Black connector is probably the USB connection. The box marked AXXESS is something aftermarket. No idea. But a google search comes up with https://www.axxessinterfaces.com/

What is a NAB6?

245/70 to 245/75 will be changing to the 1-ton tire size. The speedometer will be more accurate with them. shouldn't notice anything else.

There is a surprising amount of difference. The engine is paired with the transmission, so transmission swap as well. I recall the shift linkage is slightly different up in the column as well. All the engine/transmission wiring. The meter looks the same, but now shows more gears and has to match the programming of the engine/transmission. Driveshaft mating to the transmission different as well. You are correct about axle ratio being a little different. Unless you got a complete donor vehicle I don't see this being a viable swap.

Chart is based on what it should be when it leaves the factory and shows up at the dealership. About the only time the condition can be accurately accounted for. Start loading it with cargo and it will depend on how much cargo and where the cargo is located at. You can put a half ton pallet in the slide door or just inside the back door. Same weight, different locations, different amount of suspension squat. It would take pages of charts to figure how much weight in what location should make for how much squat.

Never heard of it before. Closest was 30+ years ago with a backfire that bent the butterflys on a Q-jet. Check with Titan websites and see if there is anything there.

If you want the aim of the camera to be halfway right, it needs to be somewhat close to stock location. The camera being offset to one side has a correction built into the head unit to line it up the best it can. I tried a different head unit once and the camera aim was all messed up since the head unit was from something that had a centered camera.

I would also get the battery tested. A 30A draw shouldn't pull the battery below 12V. I know my '21 does NOT have a smart charging system. Some parts stores will load test the battery and charging system on a running car.

You do have the engine running, right? A 30A load should not be pulling the voltage below 12V. Where are you measuring the voltage at? Is it the Victron data stream showing the drop below 12V? Do you have a meter on the battery? If you have a poor electrical connection going into the DC-DC that can cause the voltage to drop under load (under load is the important part here).

You would need to find local information. That size was never offered on the Mexico built NV200s that were the ones shipped to the North American market. Finding any 14" tire in North America is nearly impossible these days. Asking for one with a high load rating just doesn't happen.

The chrome wheels are a plastic insert installed over normal steel wheels. You can probably get a set of steel wheels, do a good paint job, and get better results. Brake dust tends to stick to plastidip more than paint. Wheels also get hot (from the brakes) and that can bake plastidip into an ugly mess. Plastidip also has a very short life, if you follow the instructions it states it should be removed in less than 6 months. Have you ever seen the nasty mess that happens if it isn't removed in time? And that is on normal surfaces, not something that gets the severe heat cycling of the wheels

Same brakes

There is a Bilstein option as well. Look at the Titan XD. That will work in the front, not sure about the rear. The wheel bolt pattern is crazy common. 8 on 6½" bolt circle. Used by GM, Ford, Dodge, International Harvester, and I think even Jeep for decades. In the late 90's they started coming out with new bolt patterns and by the mid 2010s there are only a few still using that bolt pattern. The hard part is finding good backspacing/offset. There are options out there. Make sure they have a load rating on them. Somewhere last year I saw a post of some bling polished wheels that cracked where the spokes meet the hoop. Style over substance.

What kind of accessories are you looking for? There is a good bit of stuff out there. It's no Jeep, but still has a lot of potential.

A chipped spare key hidden inside the van, in a hard for even you to get at spot. Unchipped key in the hitch safe. Gets you into the van but not drivable, unless you know where the real key is hidden. Start with the unchipped key. I heard there are some chipped keys that use a battery and copy themselves off the original key. Avoid those. When the little battery dies, so does the key. Not good for a spare. Battery will likely be dead by the time you need it. Since you are not hard up for a new key right this moment, shop around. There are a lot better options than $100 from Ace.

FiFePO4 batteries do have thermal restrictions. Don't charge below freezing, many (not all!) have low temp cutoff to prevent that. You are correct, there is an upper limit as well. Usually about 141°F. And under the hood will pass that in all but a blizzard. Inside the cabin is pretty much the only place you can put those batteries.

Aftermarket thermostats are known problems. Check with any of the Frontier or Xterra boards. OEM Nissan thermostat only.

Never made the heated seat with folding armrest. Folding armrest was only the base grade. Heated only upper grades. There was no overlap in the middle.