crusty

Yes. Keep the harness and old transmission. I would have to check again but I believe you have a different transmission than the Frontier (V6 NV has the better V8 transmission). Some Frontier also are flex fuel, so keep the old injectors as well. Not that the old parts are better, they are just a matched to the van and the computer that is running everything.

Yes, well into the 6-figure range.

So I am looking at a diesel air heater. Wabasto would be nice, but the budget is at the knock off versions that still get great reviews. The actual heater install looks pretty simple. But the fuel tank has me scratching for ideas. Anyone install one? What did you do for the fuel tank? How big? Where did you mount it? I am at a loss for anything that looks like it might fit anywhere good, and still be able to fill it. I found several hidden spots underneath that would be good, but no way to fill. Not putting anything inside. Pretty much leaves under the hood, and there looks to be lots of room. Just have not seen anything that looks like it will work.

Co-part

Nothing ever changed on the front end. A-pillar changed assist handle grips at some point, not sure when. Engine stuff on the V8 changed in '17. Lots of older stuff interchanges, but some stuff is engine specific to the new V8.

Click the link. Go to the cargo guides (second one down, below passenger, above NV200). Open it. You get a PDF to view. Scroll down to page 234

If you get the body builder guide, there are instructions on which pins go to the rear speakers. Note, the rear speakers are not prewired. Look here https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/bbg.aspx

If you have a link, please share.

While there is a lot in common, the body is very different. And the bumper fits with the body shape. So while you may find one that will bolt to the chassis, it won't work with the body of the van.

Check out the carrier bearing on the driveshaft.

Bad fuel economy for the most part. 4400 pound axle rating is an odd number. Not typical of trailer axle manufacturers. Usually you will find 3500 of 5000 pound axle ratings in this area. The fact you went across the scales is good. Few ever do, most just guess. Often poorly. Keep on top of your maintenance, you will be using every bit of the severe service maintenance schedule. These vans are built as a commercial vehicle. Designed to be loaded to the roof and run there whole life maxed out. Maybe if you are really heavy, don't pick the super steep mountain pass on the hottest day of the summer and try to keep up with the hot babe in the red Ferrari. There will be some naysayers who will likely chime in with the sky will implode on you if you are one ounce over weight. Ignore them.

It converts 12V DC to 120V AC for the outlets right next to the invertor and the one in the console. It is a modified sine wave, not all electrical stuff is happy running on it. Only works when the engine is running and you remember to press the button on the dash. Most of the small fridge/freezers have a warning not to run on an invertor. They want either pure sine wave power or 12V DC. And they will run on 12V DC more efficient than going through the step up process to 120V first. That heavy 12V wire is a power wire to the front. But it is sized to run the invertor. Not the invertor and an amp.

Has a great big one. Don't need to add or change anything. The bypass valve in the cooler is actually for cold temps. It bypasses most of the fluid when cold and only when warm does the bypass close and actually flow through the cooler. Nissan has been running these for decades. Useful to get the transmission up to temp in cold climates.

Frame may be close, but the body is completely different. The bumper to body interface will be completely wrong. But a 2012 VW Routan cabin air filter also fits the full size NV vans.

Not sure what panel you are talking about. Picture?

I've been using a basic reflective sunshade in various vehicles for the past 20 years. But the NV2500 windshield is so much larger than what I have used in the past. Anyone know of a sunshade that fits? Hoping to find some experience before doing the best guess buy. And if you have one to avoid, let know about that as well. Not looking for the fancy fitted thermal super privacy camping things. Just the quick toss across the windshield when parked to keep some of the summer sunload out of the interior. Something like (random stolen off the internet image)

2021 is exactly the same as 2019. Making new videos every year for the same old product is time consuming and expensive so it is rarely done.

Looking at what you describe, there is a very minimal electrical load. No, you don't need a bigger alternator. Adding a second battery? Batteries only charge so fast. Just because you have more potential (high output alternator) doesn't mean that the battery will accept a charge any faster. Only if you get to the point where the alternator is running 100% will the alternator output be the limiting factor. Even then that doesn't mean it won't charge, just the charge rate is slower. When the power consumed exceeds the power generated, that is a time you need a bigger alternator. In that case the battery will be discharging even though the alternator is running full power. If you figure what the running power is, fuel pump, EFI, A/C compressor, A/C fan, secondary condensor fan, lets turn on the headlights and the wipers as well. Driving at night in a hot thunderstorm. You are probably drawing ~70A of power? That is still 50A or so of charge potential. Now if you add a winch, that is a HUGE power sucker. The big amp alternator can power a large portion of what a winch will take, in this case taking the stress off the battery. On a hard pull with a big alternator the amp load on the battery might only be 150A instead of 250A. So the big pull doesn't pull as much out of the battery, so you can make a bigger pull on the same size battery.

The ball is a horrible ground. The 7-pin has a ground. Hook up the ground on the trailer plug to the trailer frame. This type of horrible trailer wiring is why Nissan isolated the factory trailer plug from the primary vehicle wiring. So when you have a messed up trailer wiring it won't take out the vehicle lights. Also why you really should use the factory trailering harness and never use the quick tap into the tail lights universal stuff. Nothing wrong with the van. Only the lack of a proper ground on the trailer.

No OEM has constant power to a USB. The issue is the USB is 5V, so there has to be a circuit driver to keep that 5V ready to use. Problem is that is a (very small) drain on the battery. The motorcycle forums people try it and it is enough to run a motorcycle battery down in a few days. Car battery would take longer, but still it is a drain. It would be a source of "no start after sitting for a few weeks". I have a plug into the power outlet USB adaptor, also have solar to keep things charged. Planning on doing the same to the NV when I get a chance.

Your NV350 is COMPLETELY different from the North American NVs on this site. Not going to find answers here. For everyone else who overlooked the NV350 and thought they read NV3500, here is a right hand drive JDM NV350

Anything except white in a cargo is extremely rare. Just letting you know why you are not finding them.

rivnut

If you have the factory trailer hitch the wiring is super simple, it's right in the 7-pin trailer plug. If you are trying to tap off the lights themselves I would use some caution since the circuit isn't sized to handle extra power. The trailer wiring is isolated from the regular wiring and can draw more power and not mess with any of the original circuits.

Don't expect any fuel economy. Especially if you are looking for more power out of it. You are not dealing with a choked carburetor anymore. Intake is already really good. Better than 99% of the so called cold air performance intakes. and with such limited offerings for the van, just leave it stock. Open element air filters are really good at letting in lots of dirt and hot air. Exhaust there are some power gains. But no off the shelf exhaust kits.