crusty

The backspacing on those is 1¼" more and the rim is an inch wider. So just the out bead of the rim is 2¼" further out. Tire is about an inch wider, but being on an inch wider wheel should be about even. So the question is if you are comfortable loosing 2¼" of clearance between the tire and the slide door? Not all tires are created equal, even if the same size. The tire you want may have an aggressive sidewall, that will eat even more space.

Low beams are 12V only, not 6V. DRL runs 2 bulbs in series, each gets 6V. 6V+6V=12V. But electricty is more complex than that. 6V each is based on both having the same resistance. The resistance of the LEDs isn't fixed, there are driver circuits that regulate the power going to the LEDs. The resistance changes with the voltage as the circuit tries to maintain a fixed output on the LEDs. If the LEDs could be happy on 6V, and both circuits were exactly perfectly matched, it should work. Reality is there are differences. Even if the LEDs were perfect, the wiring is slightly longer and shorter side to side. So you get an inbalance, The circuit opens due to low voltage, lights off. Even if you gave them 24V so it divides into 12V per light, running in series will cause an inbalance. Your LED christmas tree lights are different. There are no driver circuits trying to hold a fixed power at each bulb. They are just dumb series circuits like the old incandescent lights. They have to be to work in series. LED headlights are high enough power they need a driver circuit to regulate them. Anything that would be a good LED headlight will need them, no way around it.

I take it you know the answer, yes the headlights and DRL are the same bulb. So from the manufacturer of the bulb, won't work.

DRL work by running both lights in series. Each light is running on 6V. Very simple and has been how DRLs have worked for a very long time. Your fancy lights don't accept this arrangment. No simple way around it except putting regular bulbs back in that glow nicely on half voltage.

Very normal. If you are not experienced with cold weather it can look odd. But it is normal and signs of a good properly running engine. It is only a problem if the haze lingers. Oil or coolant will make a haze that just hangs in the air, not going away. Straight water vapor, just like your breath when you exhale or watching the steam on a cup of coffee. Large engines, moving a lot of air, leave a lot of steam (technically condensate) in the air.

It's not a diesel, tuners have little change on modern gas engines.

Now I am confused. I thought they were trying to charge you that much for an engine. Are you trying to sell them the van instead of getting it fixed? What does the van book at with a good engine? What does an engine cost? simple math of what it is worth.

That is an insane price for an engine, even at a dealer. What year, mileage, and engine? These engines are not exactly rare. Shared with Titans, Armada, Frontiers, and Xterra. Engine failure is a rarity

Sounds like someone tapped into the factory tail light wiring for the trailer wiring. Bad idea. Overloads the BCM. If damaged they are an expensive fix. Get the factory trailer wiring kit. It is extensive and runs the full length of the van all the way up to the passenger door. The factory tow wiring completely isolates the trailer wiring from the vehicle lighting. Bad grounds, shorts, overloads, backfeeding won't screw up the vans lighting system. The bad part is it takes work to install the factory trailering wiring kit. For someone who is simply trying to get trailer wiring as fast and easy as possible, tail light tap is quick and crude. The local U-haul does this because it is the fastest way to get your money and get you to leave. Use generic parts, not actually getting the correct parts.

They just bolt in. Number of leaves are the same, just the thickness is different. They are heavy!

Sounds like you have a bad adaptor. OR you are trying to pull more power through it than allowed. What are you trying to power all at once that is blowing the fuse?

I'll pretty my vent up once I get the wood floors installed

Mr Buddy is not vented. You get issues with CO, O2 depletion, and excess humidity. Exposed surface ready to ignite random stuff it comes in contact with. That is where the hot air heater is nice. Warm dry air, just like a forced hot air in your house or office. Combustion is 100% vented outside. The extra hassle of having another fuel (in my case diesel) would be no different than having to deal with propane bottles. Probably even easier and cheaper.

2500 has lighter springs, smaller tires, V6 standard. 3500 doesn't. Probably a few other things that are not disclosed. Nissan isn't going to tell you how to convert to a higher GVW. And there is the legal thing of exceeding the GVW which puts any issues on you. If you need a 3500, just get a 3500 and don't try to engineer your own.

I would look for a 2016 or newer for the V8. Engine has more power, is more efficient, and the gearing is better. The gearing is a big thing I like. I would conisder the biggest downfall is it you are not creative and want everything pre-made for you. With the Nissan you can do just about everything, but it is you doing it. But the good thing is you get what you want it to be and not a copy of everyone else who has done it a million times.

I didn't like how it was going to line the fuel line up directly over the exhaust cat. Mine is a 2kw diesel. Installed differently. Fuel tank under the hood next to the washer bottle, holds right at 2 gallons. The heater itself is in a box under the floor. Pulls air in from the back of the passenger footwell (plenty of air gap between the trim, nothing to see unless you remove the trim). Vent comes up through the middle of the floor through a defuser. If you wanted it trick if could move forward, pull from the front of the slide door footwell, over to the driver's side wall, up the wall and shoot out sideways. And not have a hole in the floor. Or mount inside behind the driver's seat. The real nice part is there is a good 6" gap between the floor and the top of the frame/gas tank at that location. And lots of room between the frame and the rocker panel as well. So many ways of doing this. Don't know why you are so fixated on mounting it under the passenger seat.

Parking lights are not turned on by the light switch. The light switch tells the BCM that the switch has been turned on. The BCM then tells the IPDM to turn on the lights and that triggers the relay(s) for the lights that are commanded. You won't find a wire under the dash to turn the park lights on.

I think the Harbor freight tire changer (with bead breaker) is only $45

No need to dismount the tire, thus no need for a rebalance. Just break the outer bead, reach in and do the swap. Barely any more than doing a valve stem.

Well, looks like another dump and run. Joins, makes a derogatory post about how bad things are, leaves to never come back again. Join date is the same as the post, only post ever made, last activity is the same day that he made the post.

Buy aftermarket at $55 for a set of 4 and have the system work correctly. Many years ago I was towing a trailer with an SUV. TPMS light came on, pulled into a rest area. Wow, right rear tire was nearly flat. Couldn't feel it on the highway. The back was a little squishy, but that is how it feels with a trailer. Without the light I would never have felt anything odd until the tire came apart and destroyed thousands of dollars worth of stuff. Maybe a few lives as well. Is the light annoying? No, it is money saving. Just fix it right, use them as they should be used.

Start with the basics. You do have the engine running? Right? Nissan isolates the trailer power when the engine is off so the trailer can't run down the vehicle battery. Not all makes do that. Some will let you pull the starting battery down via the 7-wire trailer plug. The fusible link (the thing that looks like 3 fuses in one) just pulls out. Has the friction of 6 tight fitting terminal frictions holding it in place.

Welcome to 2021. EVERYTHING is on backorder. Not just service parts, whole vehicles. Insurance companies are totaling repairable vehicles because they can't get parts to fix them. And it isn't just Nissan. It is every brand there is.

I have no idea why the 4th digit should matter. There were some flex fuel engines, but those were just bigger injectors and different materials in the fuel lines, and some computer tweaks as well. The basic engine is still the same. Might matter if you were not moving all the harness and injectors off your old engine.

2008-2015 Titan and Armada Before 2008 there is a different cam control, single variable instead of dual variable. That would throw codes and probably run poorly since one cam would not be controlled correctly. 2016 and later are a completely different engine/transmission/controls/etc. The last couple years of the 1st gen QX56 almost work, but they are a little higher compression ratio. Probably don't want a premium fuel engine so I would pass on that.