crusty

How oversized of a tire are you running? You might just need proper axle gearing.

I'll say not on a van, but check over on the Titan forums. I bet someone has done it over there.

What windows are you looking at? Clamping ring sounds like an aftermarket line of windows. The factory windows (except behind the driver) are simply glued in. If you are looking at aftermarket windows that need some sort of ring, you better go to the window supplier and source them directly.

Correct. There is a special service tool that runs on a 9V battery that will power the sensor and let you see the signal. The old school way of putting the meter on AC volts and giving the wheel a spin will not give any results. When Nissan started going from just ABS to traction control the wheel speed sensors needed to read very low RPM to detect slip and control it. That is when they went to the new style sensors.

These have active sensors. They don't test out like old school shool speed sensors. They are powered and not self generating. Even ohming them out they read different depending on the polarity of how you are ohming them. If you ohm them both ways, and compare to the others, you might see a difference in a bad one.

Looks like the sensors are about $160 each. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2014,nv2500,4.0l+v6,3305937,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912 Looking at the service history you posted, it looks like the right rear sensor may have been replaced. Keep in mind the dealer will only install new parts as per how Nissan says they are replaced. There is a long history of new axles installed when it is just a bad seal. Under warranty this is no big deal for you. Out of warranty it isn't realistic. But a proper diagnostic is needed. Just reading codes isn't always the answer. Is it a sensor, or the wiring? To say the sensor is part of the rear axle, well used axles do exist. But that would all be a waste of time and money if it was a wiring issue.

As long as the ABS is working correctly, yes it does have a limited slip. Not mechanical, electronic traction control. If you are an old school driver (sounds like you are) and lift off the throttle when you get the first bit of wheel spin then it isn't going to work. It is a reactive system. When there is tire spin, it applies a little brake to the spinning tire to transfer torque to the other tire. It is also a multi-stage process. As in if a little brake apply didn't work, add more. I've seen this system with one rear tire in the air and the other tire driving better than old school limited slips will do. The key is a slightly different driving approach to tire spin. Hold throttle, possibly add a very slight bit more (10%?). If you don't do that, you will not progress. Next up, tires. Don't care what axle you have, if the tires are not correct for the terrain you will never win the fight. You plan on selling a perfectly good van because you don't have the correct tires on it?

Trouble is people want to keep them. Especially anything in good condition.

I expect it to. The zero offset is what hurts the most. Lots of rims with the right bolt pattern, most are the wrong offset.

That chart isn't complete. 305 HP was what the engine was launched with in 2004. It has a single variable (intake) cam. After 2007 the HP increased to 317 when dual valiable (intake and exhaust) cams were used. Since the cams are controlled by the computer, you want the later engine. You don't want the early engine as the computer can't control the exhaust cam it it will throw a fit and codes. The QX56 at 320HP has slightly higher compression ratio to match the premium fuel tuning. another one to avoid. It should work, but you may need premium fuel due to the higher compression. For any given year, there was only one engine for a Titan. From the most basic bench seat manual window king cab to the off-road and LE grades. Never a different engine. Also Armada has the same engine as the Titan for the same year.

Used Titan engine. '07-15 I believe. You just need to keep all the sensors and wiring off your existing engine. They are almost the same (the wiring and stuff), but just enough to bite you. If there is a wire going to it, move it over. The long block is the same. Not the early Titan, '04-06 have different variable cam setup.

The backspacing on those is 1¼" more and the rim is an inch wider. So just the out bead of the rim is 2¼" further out. Tire is about an inch wider, but being on an inch wider wheel should be about even. So the question is if you are comfortable loosing 2¼" of clearance between the tire and the slide door? Not all tires are created equal, even if the same size. The tire you want may have an aggressive sidewall, that will eat even more space.

Low beams are 12V only, not 6V. DRL runs 2 bulbs in series, each gets 6V. 6V+6V=12V. But electricty is more complex than that. 6V each is based on both having the same resistance. The resistance of the LEDs isn't fixed, there are driver circuits that regulate the power going to the LEDs. The resistance changes with the voltage as the circuit tries to maintain a fixed output on the LEDs. If the LEDs could be happy on 6V, and both circuits were exactly perfectly matched, it should work. Reality is there are differences. Even if the LEDs were perfect, the wiring is slightly longer and shorter side to side. So you get an inbalance, The circuit opens due to low voltage, lights off. Even if you gave them 24V so it divides into 12V per light, running in series will cause an inbalance. Your LED christmas tree lights are different. There are no driver circuits trying to hold a fixed power at each bulb. They are just dumb series circuits like the old incandescent lights. They have to be to work in series. LED headlights are high enough power they need a driver circuit to regulate them. Anything that would be a good LED headlight will need them, no way around it.

I take it you know the answer, yes the headlights and DRL are the same bulb. So from the manufacturer of the bulb, won't work.

DRL work by running both lights in series. Each light is running on 6V. Very simple and has been how DRLs have worked for a very long time. Your fancy lights don't accept this arrangment. No simple way around it except putting regular bulbs back in that glow nicely on half voltage.

Very normal. If you are not experienced with cold weather it can look odd. But it is normal and signs of a good properly running engine. It is only a problem if the haze lingers. Oil or coolant will make a haze that just hangs in the air, not going away. Straight water vapor, just like your breath when you exhale or watching the steam on a cup of coffee. Large engines, moving a lot of air, leave a lot of steam (technically condensate) in the air.

It's not a diesel, tuners have little change on modern gas engines.

Now I am confused. I thought they were trying to charge you that much for an engine. Are you trying to sell them the van instead of getting it fixed? What does the van book at with a good engine? What does an engine cost? simple math of what it is worth.

That is an insane price for an engine, even at a dealer. What year, mileage, and engine? These engines are not exactly rare. Shared with Titans, Armada, Frontiers, and Xterra. Engine failure is a rarity

Sounds like someone tapped into the factory tail light wiring for the trailer wiring. Bad idea. Overloads the BCM. If damaged they are an expensive fix. Get the factory trailer wiring kit. It is extensive and runs the full length of the van all the way up to the passenger door. The factory tow wiring completely isolates the trailer wiring from the vehicle lighting. Bad grounds, shorts, overloads, backfeeding won't screw up the vans lighting system. The bad part is it takes work to install the factory trailering wiring kit. For someone who is simply trying to get trailer wiring as fast and easy as possible, tail light tap is quick and crude. The local U-haul does this because it is the fastest way to get your money and get you to leave. Use generic parts, not actually getting the correct parts.

They just bolt in. Number of leaves are the same, just the thickness is different. They are heavy!

Sounds like you have a bad adaptor. OR you are trying to pull more power through it than allowed. What are you trying to power all at once that is blowing the fuse?

I'll pretty my vent up once I get the wood floors installed

Mr Buddy is not vented. You get issues with CO, O2 depletion, and excess humidity. Exposed surface ready to ignite random stuff it comes in contact with. That is where the hot air heater is nice. Warm dry air, just like a forced hot air in your house or office. Combustion is 100% vented outside. The extra hassle of having another fuel (in my case diesel) would be no different than having to deal with propane bottles. Probably even easier and cheaper.

2500 has lighter springs, smaller tires, V6 standard. 3500 doesn't. Probably a few other things that are not disclosed. Nissan isn't going to tell you how to convert to a higher GVW. And there is the legal thing of exceeding the GVW which puts any issues on you. If you need a 3500, just get a 3500 and don't try to engineer your own.